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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
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Middle Ground | |||||
25 | ★★ Dixie Normus
Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 8m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Long Dong Silver
Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up. FA: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 10m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido
Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010 | 9m, 4 | |||
25 | Rhythm and Blues
The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high. FA: Andrew Richards, 10 9월 2016 | 20m, 8 | |||
South-Western side Black Mamba Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Castor's Bullox
Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top. FA: V. Hill, 2011 | 15m, 8 | |||
Utopia Crash and Burn Area | |||||
25 | ★★ Smash and Grab
Thin and balancy climbing just left of arête. Start on the crack and move right to a big move after the 3rd bolt then awesome climbing to the top. Set: Rick Phillips, 2010 FA: Wade Stewart, Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, sabine pratt, John Lattanzio, Kimmy, Viona Young, jess potty mouth & the Bangor Chimp, 20 6월 2015 | 15m | |||
Utopia Bushwhacked Area | |||||
25 | ★★★ Bushwhacked
Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010 | 20m, 12 |
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