루트들 Thompson's Point에서

Steep big hand crack from top of the pedestal, gradually widening up the slab and through the broken caves above. Top out and walk off or stop at Couch Potato anchor.

Inside corner crack, going left through carrot bolt beneath roof to anchor.

Still an unbolted crack. Grab your rack and place some dangling bits of gizmos before the bolters wreck it.

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.

Links the 1st half of 'The Furburger' into the 2nd half of 'Blister In The Sun'.

Climb the crack right of 'Blister In The Sun' and finish at the anchors of 'Something For Kate'.

don't be silly it's been Done 10 Years ago it's Thompsons Point for gods sake

Climb the wide corner crack at the back of the gully just left of the obvious orange streaked wall. It may be wise to supplement the RB's with natural gear.

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

The chimney - on trad. Rock quality and gear questionable until the last 10m

Trad start to Sloth. Head up the crack in the ramp with good pro, 2 metres right of Sloth to the first bolt on the headwall of Sloth and finish at Sloth anchors.

Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams.

Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment

Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun.

Maximises the climbing to be had on this fantastic wall. Extend your draws!

ROUTE: Start up Shifting Sands and clip its last bolt but instead of pulling right onto the face, stay left and climb directly up to the first bolt of A Day At The Beast. From here, head left to join into Speed Boat Wankers for three bolts, THEN STEP LEFT AGAIN and finish at the anchor of Funkenstein. You may wish to finish at the Speed Boat Wanker anchor for a grade 24.

ADVICE: The first bolt of A Day At The Beast should be equipped with an extra long runner (unless you like rope drag). You may wish to climb up to the Shifting Sands anchor then scoot left to preplace this protection.

CLEANING: Can be done while getting lowered with some minor shenanigans and a re-direct (or re-thread) at the Shifting Sands anchor.

There are numerous variations on this linkup but I assure you that this is the best one.

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

The left route

The climb starts on the ledge at the 2RB belay inside the cave on the right hand side of the buttress. However, its best to just belay from the ground, walk in along the ledge and place a long sling on the belay to avoid rope drag. Traverse left past the upper line of RB's to the arête. Continue up the crack before moving right onto the wall. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Clip 1st bolt on Me (and that's it), then move right to gain obvious side pull feature thingo and up thru some techy moves. Continue into Suze when it gets easy.

Short but worthwhile, add the sit start for the full tick.

Has been rebolted with new lower offs

Line a couple of metres left of Butterfly Wall. Up thinly past a few bolts to the crux. The dyno isn't mandatory but the move is impossible to dog past without hauling a stick clip. Excellent route, up there with the other classics on this wall.

The orginal climb here. Start at the black streak under the cave up high. Move right to the unlikely face climbing on the orange streak, up this to anchors.

Easier finish of Spank the Donkey. Good juggy steep climbing the whole way. Climb StD to 6th bolt and rest stance in small cave. Go straight up on the right side of the arête on mega jugs and easy wall to finish.

Left of 3BR. Ride the flake with a big move after the 2nd bolt. Rad !!

Extension of "Sexy is the Word".

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Starts with a few long moves to break. At the break grab the undercling and crank to the top ledge. Lower offs further back on top ledge.

Start: Start 2m L of WATG

The right route

7RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start in the cave just right of the orange streaked wall at the level of the 1st RB.

Left of SM. Tricky 1st move

A savage little number with a very hard crux. Great sequence!

A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall.

Hidden gem, up the back of the wastelands. Start at the little overlap 3m right of Alien Probe. Up trending left to blind seam/crack then straight up to anchors. Hard to put the draw on the 3rd bolt. Otherwise Excellent.

The direct line between Sloth and EbtW, goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Watch that rope !!

Left side of the block at the base of decent gully.

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Climb the boulder at the bottom of the access gully. From the top of the boulder move left and pull onto the hanging arête. Traverse left past 3RBs then continue up.

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

Up in the fern garden. Looks hard and junk with stupid bolt placements.

Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM.

East of decent gully, on right arete of block tending left. Anchor placed a bit to far left.

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Up wall to belay stance below roof.

Start: Start 5m right of 'PM'

Start 5m right of “Sloth” on top of the massive flake. Quite stiff for the grade.

Start as for 'Burpin McGlurpin' but after pulling onto the hanging arête continue straight up before moving left to the big blob hold. Finish by running it out to the anchors. Some may feel a little nervous getting from the boulder onto the hanging arête as the 1st bolt does look a long way down … so take care.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho'

Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder.

Starts inbetween Lounge Lizard and Gecko. At second bolt the crack for Gecko can be used. Use anchor for Lounge Lizard as 5th bolt then climb sraight up steep head wall to the top.

Just west of decent gully. Start at obvious large pocket.

From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall.

Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'.

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

Stick clip the first RB. A difficult but enjoyable introduction to the climb is followed by what appears to be a very difficult move. On closer examination however this is circumvented by the use of a manufactured pocket that looks like it was created with a jack hammer not sculptured with the precision of a 12mm drill bit. This 'Thank God Pocket' is actually all that is left of a misplaced bolt placement.

If you do the climb by stemming back against the opposite wall to bypass any difficulties the grade is about 16.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 2m up the access gully.

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Climb Lost Weekends to jug break then around corner and follow slopey flake all the way.

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses.

Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Very hard for the grade (was 18). Left of orange streak and rooflet. Hard start, gets easier the higher you get.

Hard start (stick clip the 2nd bolt if your not solid) that leads into nice wall climbing with a bit of a move at the bulge.

4m right of EOSM and left of Offwidth. Stay on face, up to slight left then follow bolt line.

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff.

Start: Start as for 'J'.

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

Right most route on this wall. Dont fall off clipping the 3rd bolt. Better than its neighbour..

A bunch of roofy things. Generally fine climbing swiped off Fat Mark after he gave up.

Start: Left side of the cliff

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

The tricky off angle arete, used to be 25.

The original start is now generally superseded by BWD

Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP.

Hard traverse in from way left, then up right of the orange streak.

Up Sidetrack for 2 bolts then move left past another bolt and then into BB. With a less cranky start, it will probably be more popular than BB.

Right of obvious offwidth and left of Melodrama. A powerful delicate move down low with the crux on finger holds up high through scoop.

Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'.

Up the poorly protected slab onto fun sidepull features. Bring a bolt plate and a sling for before the roof. Headwall is excellent to a jug above drb anchor.

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Start below flake.

A rap in affair above JP. Sweet easy exposed climbing :

Left of BITS. Start up slight left of bolts before drifting right and powerful crux move. Interesting variations of moves through the block makes this an interesting climb.

From where ADATB steps right, climb straight up the flake/arete feature until the last bolt. Clip, take a deep breath, pull onto the face, and climb up to the ADATB anchor.

Don't keep climbing up the left side of the flake/arete (after clipping the last bolt), this skips the crux.

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.