Mega! The bottom section is less choss (and better protected) than many of its neighbours, and the super-sustained upper half is all-time classic. My first go today placing all gear ended in the final few moves (those sneaky, sneaky face holds ). No time/energy to strip it all and go again, so I did it on pre-placed. Proper psyched to do this placing all gear, though.
1st shot today, 2nd shot total (thanks for putting the gear on, Tom!) After finding this really hard previously, it was good to feel really strong on it today, despite not having "worked" any of it. Proper classicface climbing, super-sustained, hard cruxes, great rock. My favourite of the "harder" bolted routes at the Point.
3rd shot. Onsight ended between 2nd and 3rd bolt at the top. Stripped the route, then bungled the final moves like a punter. Stripped out all but the bottom 5 pieces of gear and sent 3rd shot. So, as the first few bits were still in situ, guess I can't claim a true red point Absolutely stellar upper half on crazy-shallow dimple-pockets. I found this really hard at the grade, but talking to others I may have been following the bolts at the top too directly. Regardless: brilliant.
The onsight went well (and was supersolid) EXCEPT for the bolt-protected middle crux, which took me quite a few falls to work out. With the sequence sorted, that move (and by extension, the entire climb) went down soundly. Greatface climbing with spaced but safe gear and a few tricky sections. The finale up the flake is exhilarating, but DAMN that flake is as giant and as hollow as they come!
- 누구와
Tom Collins
). No time/energy to strip it all and go again, so I did it on pre-placed. Proper psyched to do this placing all gear, though.