루트들 인공로서 Queensland에서

Fist sized corner roof crack located on the south-east side of the summit. Awaiting a free ascent.

P1 A2 20m. Free to BR at 4m then thin seam running up then diag. R under arching roof, to arete. Straight up through steep bit then up corner to TBB with small foot stance.

P2 A2+ 25m Continue up corner passing 4 BR. Pass rooflet then straight up widening then narrowing crack with some looseness, to the Fireman's Hat belay (TBB).

P3 A3 20m Pass roof to R and on up thin cornern with fixed KB to negotiate another roof (2BR). Up R leaning orange line widening from beaks to medium cams, returning to beaks as it reaches the hanging TBB.

P4(?A3) 20m Continue up line a bit then veer diag. L (BR) heading for corner above roof. Up corner. A rivet (as for COD) is the last placement. Bolt and groove belay.

Note: bat hook off first FH on P4 appears blown out 17/07/2020.

50m of 4th class poo to the top.

FA Gareth Llewellin, Chris Finn, Scott Lawrence, Ray B. 05/99

Start 20m left of where the tourist track meets the beach. There is a sport route on RB's but the aid route is on (sometimes questionable) carrots. Its not unheard of for the carrots to pop so take care. Once you start the roof it is very difficult to bail. Final straightforward bail option is at the top of pitch two where a 55m rap will get you back on the ground (two 60m essential)

An almost clean aid route. Start at obvious corner capped by roofs. Start up corner. Traverse straight L under the daunting roof and finish up short corner (BR) to the top. Bring a wide range of gear including big SLCDs and lots of small wires. No pins required. The rock is fairly hollow - beware.

From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.

Clean aid. Yet to be freed.

Peg, skyhook, micro-cam, and nut yourself to "glory" up the moss-laden micro-seam (this is a waterfall after rain) to the DBB of 'Dead Bird Chimney'. This was freed on top rope at grade 19, but remains a Aid climb.

Comfortable belay chasing the shade at bottom of short slab. Boulder to first piton placement, then one or two moves to first bolt. Follow line of bolts and scars 50m up to ledge with tree. 4 people could spaciously bivy sitting up.

Second pitch follows the gully at the moment. Still has some spice, but we are looking to turn the second pitch left at some point for a more aesthetic line. 40m pitch, however does not top out, again to a comfortable stance on a ledge with a tree.

Good fun day out. (took us two to establish)

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

Start at burnt out tree 20m R of 'The Ricoh Destruction Test'. Located directly below the lookout.

1. 22m (20) Trend R after the 3rd bolt. Up to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

2. 12m (21) Trend L from belay then up through overhangs rejoicing in the two handed pocket. A few harder moves follow to get to the DBB. If there's no rope drag continue up pitch 3.

3. 10m (20) Traverse L staying just above overhang to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

4. 20m (21 M1) Straight up slab, a few thin moves and pockets. Through the overhangs (aid last bolt of the overhang) then sketchy free moves to finish at U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

5. 25m (20) Follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge, the first on the route.

6. 14m (19) Thin start, follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge. Choose to link pitch 7 or not.

7. 5m (10) Up! To stand in the lookout and belay from the overhead beam would be perfect but contrary to QPWS policy.

Possibly an old bolt ladder, five carrots leading up and right

Simon and Neil initially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start: In front of Light Box 10, a few metres left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Mantel this (BR - probably gone) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR (probably gone). Aid up the wall past a rusty old aid bolt (still there), then traverse directly left to chains on ST. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now. (NB: I would suggest that the aid bolts & bolt runners are now long gone, cleaned off by BCC in many rock scaling events. As of 2022, one rusty BR remains high up on this route.)

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Contrived. Up Spack Attack then traverse right and hook up edges to top.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on "Grogan Road" street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

Should go free. Fully bolted, but avoid using the questionable first bolt

Begin below overhang. Up bolts to overhang. Peg right and up. Some good moves under the roof.

Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.

1. 47m 18 - Up the crack/corner.

2. 25m M4 - Up Right to bolt belay.

3. 16m 16/M1 - Step Right from top nut, up, free to tree belay(?).

4. 20m 12 - Stay left of mank gully, left up ramp.

5. 12m 13 - Crack to top.

Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only)

Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist.

Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.

1. 45m 17 - From large tree left of a large right leaning corner crack, up steep slab trending right to the orange wall and DBB at overhanging corner.

2. 25m 22 - Up steeply into corner (careful of loose blocks), first bolt is high & natural placements available pretty sustained up corner then onto face following bolts to DBB. The best pitch!

3. 25m 23 A1 - Up face small cam placement in crack on left, trend right towards overhang (very tricky moves through the overhang) follow to the large ledge with a tree and DBB. (This pitch is run out and will need another bolt after the lip of the overhang)

4. 25m 21 - Follow BRs to DBB. You’ll need a dozen brackets for this pitch. (pitch 3 not free as yet & open to anyone)

Start: Unknown. "Easy free crack start. Mixed free + aid."

1. 47m 14/M3 - "Left from the overhang to bolt belay."

2. 37m 15 - "Up and across Right."

3. 34m 13 - "Stay Right, avoiding the mank."

4. 12m 13 - "Crack to top."

(Trevor's notes)

Start 30m right of Deception II tree (now a blackened stump).

1. 30m 16M2 - Climb Left under block, then up. 3 Aids at 15m.

2. 34m 16 - Right, under hanging block, up corner to top.

Start: Below cave.

RURP November 1969

Start: beneath cave.

RURP November 1969

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

Quoted from RURP:

1. "Free up 6m, then peg up corner for 9m, move Right and up to another ledge.

2. "Continue up line to another ledge.

3. "Finish up Left line - free the last 12m.

"Good mixed climbing up a fine line."

RURP July/August 1972

(Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.)

Start: at the top of the East Face - LH end (looking at the cliff), a bit back from the gully, almost on the corner of the gully, down a sloping ramp.

Pitches 1) - 4) Down the ramp, abseil, then traverse to pedestal, climb down the crack, traverse with aid to Phaedra, lower 25-30m, tension (pendulum) across 18m to The AntiChrist bush(!?).

Pitches 5) - 9) Traverse Right, up cracks to Beau Brummel ledge. Easily down groove, traverse Right to small cave below the crux of ROI (pitch 3).

Pitches 10) - 12) Up Ruby Of India to the top.

Although it reverses Party Trick, there is considerable new climbing. Varied climbing, mostly free, across an exposed wall.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

{루트}의 등반가 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

From RURP September 1971: "The East Face of Maroon, a perfect line where the light and dark rock meet."

1. 30m 17 Zigzag up easy blocks, etc., to a small corner niche. Up steep wall to a foothold belay ledge.

2. 30m 18 Up to overhang, left and up, then back right and up to a ledge with a small bush, up another 7-8m to a slightly bigger ledge.

3. 24m 10/M5 Free 6m, then follow nebulous crackline to a bivy under the headwall.

4. 24m M7 Follow the line to a sloping shelf, hanging belay.

5. 12m 10 Up with a peg for aid in lose blocks. Belay at foot of corner.

6. 30m 14/M3 Up corner to top of a pedestal. Aids in poor, rotten, crack, free to top, block belay.

"Gear: rurps, skyhooks, bathhooks, microhexes, and blades up to 1.5 angle (plenty of knives + a few crackers)."

Has the distinction of being Australia's first 22.

Scramble/climb up the easy start next to ROI & onto the belay ledge. Starting in RH corner, trending left up weakness, then up, slightly right trending, into crack corner & up this to flaring off-width at top. Aid your way out to lip. then up over this to a good belay stance above.

Be wary of the original button bolts put in by Rick 47yrs ago; these are only 1" deep or so & hand-drilled.

Very rarely climbed, the route is rather chossy & vegetated.

(Estimates of freeing the downward flaring crack at the top start at around grade 27-28.)

Rick White in RURP September1972:

1-5) Up D2 to top terrace, walk left & belay on left ledge.

6-8) Climb down gully ca.20m (rope assist) to a traverse line. Traverse left, then up grassy corner to below crux of BB. Climb down crack (rope assist), traverse left & up to "AC" ledge.

9-11) Peg up to AC bivie bolts, lower down ca.25m & pendulum across to Phaedra bivi bolts, 8m below roof. Peg up past bolts to roof & then through roof to more bolts. Traverse left (2 pegs), lower or fall off a tied off knife blade, pendulum & tension with difficulty to bush(?). Up crack to magnificent perched belay.

12-13) Up diagonally left, through blocks. keep traversing: up short wall, then easy finish.

Ian Thomas: "Why wouldn't you want to complete the first girdle of a big exposed face, spend the night in a free hanging hammock, flail around on an 30m pendulum and scare yourself silly with hard aid?"

The impossibly thin crack left of Tough Mamma.

Start: The LH end of Tough Mamma Wall.

Free moves in groove at 25m. Abseil at top.

An excellent aid route, using only crackers. Take a good selection of small nuts & stoppers. (RURP 1973)

Three nuts for aid at 12m.

On the northern end of the first big boulder of the Sphinx Rock group encountered from the campsite track. Free the move or stick clip the bolt to avoid the undercut start and aid up. Once you get the digits established on the rock climb up leftwards to another bolt. Then rightwards and up to the top via a sling runner. SLCD’s for the belay. Rap station descent.

A jamming problem. Clean rock, a logical line, fantastic climbing. Straight up the crack then through the overhang with some thoughtful moves. Continue directly up the slabs.

A distinctive, slightly overhung crack line. Start at the straight up hand crack that splits the wall. Go directly up the crack, absorbing cams and donker nuts. Continue up the small face at the right. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Finger jamming fun. This is behind The Spearhead. Go up. Starts left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right; this section is shared with Sinbad. Go left past the tree to the finger crack and proceed up to a sexy completion with wondrous jugs. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Slippery, then gritty. Start is shared with I Feel Good. Start left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right. Move left then straight up the crack. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Poor protection.

S/SE Arête. Up off-width/chimney to top of balancing rock (no pro). Over bulge. Slab to top. Approximately 55 metres. CPs and sky hooks.

Marked 'S'. Starts down near the first railing on the path. Walk up from the track through some grass to start. The line of four manky, horrid, rusty bolts leading to a natural seam. Some silly attempts have been made to free the route, but the bottom section is sharp and difficult.

On this L gully wall there are a couple of white streaks running down the wall. The L-most white streak up a water scoop is the first pitch of an aid climb. Rusty thin bolts, rusty pitons and 316 stainless rivets run up the climb. The climb goes to the rap chains and beyond another couple of pitches. You'll need multiple birdbeaks, hooks, RURPs, thin nailing gear, pitons, rivets, a hand drill and a bunch of other stuff...