등정들 Victoria에서 Hang dog로서

No wonder the grading is all over the place. This climb is super height dependent. If you can grab the first hold with only two stacked blocks at the most, the climb will be mostly fine. If you need three stacked blocks, it's going to feel waaaay harder. I needed three lol. The crux isn't the hole, it's grabbing the pinch crimp a bolt beneath it, and then being able to use it to hop to the crimp rail above it. I could barely reach the crimp pinch even with an unnaturally high feeling right foot, and then I was completely starfished out. Maybe a dyno to the crimp to skip the pinch?

Very promising session. Shouldn’t take very long when I get back to it in 2 months heheh

Soon without any rests

Find have time for a second shot. Amazing climbing, will be back

Slipped out of the offwidth chimney, decked on the ledge below, bounced the back of my helmet-less head off the opposing wall. It was a great time. I had to take my helmet off because I literally couldn't fit my fat head through the chimney with the helmet on.

Mistake #1: putting a quickdraw on the #5 C4 I had in the roof. Go direct and make sure your belayer has you on a tight leash.

Mistake #2: not taking off the helmet before trying to squeeze my melon through the chimney. Had to awkwardly take it off while fighting for my life.

Mistake #3: not having a #3 C4 ready to place after getting my head through.

What kind of sadist grades this as an 18 by the way?

A bit sketchy with no great placements around the crux.

Turns out the beta is way easier than I thought, just a dynamic launch you have to go for, for a jug.

Great fall practice, fall on every clip as a warmup

got kachoong'd 😂

Brutal

Got to the traverse putting gear on then subsequently worse shots. Classic power enduro

I think it could’ve gone with another burn but we had to head off. Insanely fun climbing. Genuinely one of my favourite crags at the Grampians - some nice powerful routes but also good variety when you’re not feeling it. Bit of choss but that’s ok. Thank you bolters!

Good times - took a few falls, broke some gear fear. Crux beta felt quite desperate for the grade, involving a burly move off a finger lock into sloping layaways to gain the jug - maybe there's a better way...

Classic one mover and what a move.

and again to take some whips on gear

This was sport!

rested below the crux because i couldn't make the psyche necessary to high clip

One move wonder but just couldn’t stick it

So sick. I think this one might go