North West Guide

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

A

S

O

N

D

계절특성

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -35.866651, 142.427950

설명

Mt Cole

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.756550, 141.831000

요약

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Heading towards Arapiles for some legendary climbing and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss.

It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this is when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing.

Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.

One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades.

The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 'Experienced' range (approx grades 19-24) Arapiles is particularly blessed. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good.

Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance.

One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe.

There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia's premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.

Emergency Locations : A large number of Arapiles locations are registered with Emergency services and have been entered in TheCrag. If you need Emergency Services, dial 000 (triple-zero). You will first be asked "Police, Fire or Ambulance?". After responding you will be connected to the required service. The next question will ask for your location. Give the Emergency Location listed in TheCrag for your cliff. This is the minimum information Emergency Services require to get going. Then you can give more details of the accident, climb etc.

접근 문제들

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

접근

300km west of Melbourne.

Driving is your best bet. Public Transport is available- catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.

숙박 장소

The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. Campsites must be booked online at http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park or phone 13 1963.

More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers. Showers are also available at the Natimuk Pub for $5.

윤리문제

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.766989, 141.845943

요약

The big cave right of Ghost of Melville is the Nick Cave

설명

The outcrop at Arapiles' far south-eastern end. A popular area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

접근

Drive along the summit road and the park on the right where the sign points to 'Melville's Cave'. From there it's a short, easy walk to the crag.

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: -36.766784, 141.851664

설명

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

접근 문제들

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

접근

Either drive 600m down the road from the campsite and park close to the base of the crag or walk along the path that starts near the toilet block.

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.764754, 141.847881

설명

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

접근

10 minute walk from pines campground. Stay on the low track until you can see the walls then head up.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.763645, 141.845812

설명

A bit of a labyrinth, but worth exploring. Good on a hot day.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

접근

10 minutes from the camping ground.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.762711, 141.845831

설명

The gullies and walls in between the Atridae and King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

접근

5 minute walk from the campground.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.762180, 141.845921

설명

The big, prominent block up and left behind the camp ground.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Atridae Area

접근

5 minutes from the camp ground.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.761146, 141.845237

설명

Probably the most popular multi-pitch area at Arapiles and, more importantly, close to camp.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

접근

Short walk from the camping ground.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.758867, 141.842541

설명

The broad gully slightly W (Right) of the camping ground.

Emergency Locations : Central Gully Left Side Area, Central Gully Right Side Area

접근

5-15 minutes walk from the camping ground.

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: -36.758366, 141.845215

설명

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Fang Buttress Area

접근

A short walk from the camping ground. Head towards the big bluff.

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.757280, 141.845393

설명

Emergency Location information:Mt Arapiles, Bard Buttress Area Reason for closure, Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years.

접근

Note that a number of routes which actually climb the SE part of 'Bard Buttress' are not described here, but are instead under the Ali's area (found in the "Fang Buttress and Surrounds" section). They are put in that section because they start as for Ali's, at the top of the gully which divides 'Fang Buttress' from the 'Bard Buttress', and then head a bit right from there. As a result, this page describes all routes which are accessed from the gully itself or further right. The gully is fairly simple to scramble up and down, but there's several spots where you really don't want to fall off due to very nasty fall potential.

Several routes finish on the Bard Terrace, which is about 30m below the top of the buttress. To get off the Terrace you can do the final pitch of one of the other routes, but it's quickest to do an easy but very exposed walk/traverse off the left end of the ledge, which leads you into Ali's after about 40m. This traverse is often soloed but roping up for it isn't a bad idea.

To descend from the routes which go right to the top, you need to do a short little downclimb off the back of the buttress, which deposits you very close to Ali's cave. Then go through the cave, R around John's Pinnacle and down Ali's.

하강시 주의점

From the top of the buttress there's a short down-climb off the back of the buttress to Ali's cave. Go through the cave and come out at John's Pinnacle. Go R and down Ali's. There are chains to rap down (45m). Or it's a fairly easy, but in places exposed, scramble down Ali's.

For routes that finish at the Bard terrace you can either climb Bard's 5th pitch or traverse L off the end of the terrace (roping up recommended) and scramble down to Ali's.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.757197, 141.844762

설명

Bluff Major and Bluff Minor are the two huge blocks perched above Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

접근

Via Ali's or a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 인공등반

Lat / Long: -36.755769, 141.845107

요약

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Tiger Wall Area

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.755185, 141.843951

설명

Emergency Location information:Mount Arapiles, Castle Crag Area Reason for closure, Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance of Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years.

접근

10 min walk from campground, heading N.

하강시 주의점

20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.755717, 141.843232

설명

The buttress directly behind Castle Crag.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Grotto Wall Area

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.754836, 141.842156

설명

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.753541, 141.840995

설명

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.751464, 141.837756

설명

One of the most impressive sheer walls at the mountain. Contains many three star multi-pitch classics - some of the best routes Arapiles has to offer.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

접근

The very obvious face about 1km from the campsite heading west.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.750329, 141.835082

설명

PLEASE NOTE: As it stands (as of 20/07/2018) there are multiple route and area descriptions that are incorrect (most glaringly in the less trafficked areas of the Mount). Efforts are being made to fix this, but be aware that any new-routing activity or general climbing in the Northern Group should be done with consultation to locals, the existing guidebooks, and The Australian Route Register (more detailed information on some single-pitch climbs: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=region&region_id=8).

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.748585, 141.833478

설명

PLEASE NOTE: As it stands (as of 20/07/2018) there are multiple route and area descriptions that are incorrect (most glaringly in the less trafficked areas of the Mount). Efforts are being made to fix this, but be aware that any new-routing activity or general climbing in the Far Northern Group should be done with consultation to locals, the existing guidebooks, and/or to The Australian Route Register (more detailed information on some single-pitch climbs: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=region&region_id=8).

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.737048, 141.832048

설명

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area or Mitre Rock North Area

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -36.754536, 141.816650

설명

PLEASE NOTE: As it stands (as of 20/07/2018) there are multiple route and area descriptions that are incorrect (most glaringly in the less trafficked areas of the Mount). Efforts are being made to fix this, but be aware that any new-routing activity or general climbing on The Western Side should be done with consultation to locals, the existing guidebooks, and The Australian Route Register (more detailed information on some single-pitch climbs: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=region&region_id=8).

Summary:

모두 볼더링

요약

Esoteric outcrop/small buttress away from main crags, all bouldering, tbc.

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -37.265302, 142.376338

요약

Some of the best climbing in Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.

설명

For many climbers, memories of the Grampians / Gariwerd are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton', 'The Ampitheatre', 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Access issues since 2019 has resulted in an upheaval of climbing in the region, along with confusion about which crags are open, which crags Parks Vic wish to close and why. Please read the Ethic section, and the Access notes for each crag.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!

접근 문제들

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

접근

235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.

숙박 장소

There are official campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, that can be quite expensive. Free bush camping is accepted (until 2024) and well practiced in designated areas - but don't light fires anywhere outside of an official metal fire ring. It is illegal to camp and light fires in caves.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.

If you are wishing to camp, for further information or to book, go to http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/

윤리문제

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

역사

Modern climbing using ropes began in the Grampians around 1910. Read a detailed Grampians climbing chronology here: https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/grampians-climbing-chronology/

Geological history can be found here: http://earthresources.efirst.com.au/product.asp?pID=514&cID=39

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -37.055512, 142.408143

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.096526, 142.088071

접근 문제들

While technically a state park, and some crags may be on a bushland reserve or private property, the area is still managed by Parks Victoria, and is included in the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan (GGLMP). So access notes for each crag have been updated accordingly by Crag Stewards Vic.

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.197472, 142.444747

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -37.165171, 142.537188

요약

Lots of scattered climbing, short cliffs, easy accessible sport routes and good bouldering throughout the valley surrounding Halls Gap.

설명

Lots of easy access climbing around the town of Halls Gap. Lots of slabby climbs with a few big rooves capping different cliffs. Theres a fair bit of guiding and commercial operation in the areas of "Punter's Pinnacle" and "The Watchtower". Boulderers frequent the rock around "Venus Baths", providing some entertainment for gawking tourists.

2 relatively new (2019 / 2021) printed guidebooks are available with more detailed info on the majority of minor and major crags.

접근

Access to Halls Gap is Via 'Grampians Tourist Road", 'Mt Zero Rd' or from Stawell or Ararat

숙박 장소

If you just need a place to sleep, the Halls Gap Caravan Park offers superb facilties. If you want a roof above your head, theres a few lodges and inns, as well as holiday houses

Summary:

Mostly 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.399449, 142.485473

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -37.345273, 142.268039

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.155923, 142.758590

설명

The Black Range is a series of small wooded hills outside Stawell well endowed with granite blocks. Typically of small granite areas although there is a lot of rock, and there are some very impressive blocks and pinnacles, there is a distinct lack of lines up many of them. Despite this here are a surprisingly large number of good crack lines scattered around the range. Whilst the typical rough, wide granite cracks exist, [GSOH and Illegitimate Pig being prime cases] there are also some very nice crack climbs of which Minaret and Dolerite Crack are particularly outstanding examples. There are so far very few climbs which are protected entirely by bolts. The predominance of middle grade routes and the lack of sport routes is largely a reflection on the abilities and preferences of the pioneers. The potential for routes at much harder grades is enormous. The sheer amount of rock and the large size of the range, only a very small part of which has so far been explored, means that good new routes and cliffs will be being discovered for years to come. Bouldering possibilities are limitless. Being so close to the Grampians the area is never likely to be a major draw card in its own right. However, the cliffs offer a good wet weather alternative to the Grampians and are worth a visit as a Sunday cliff if looking for a short day before heading home to Melbourne. Nearly all of the cliffs require less than 30 minutes walk in. The Petrol Head blocks near the Speedway are barely 5 minutes walk from the car. Views of the Grampians from cliffs on the Western side of the range are outstanding. Most of the range is quiet and little visited. Some of the tors, like Seal Rock, are very impressive features well worth walking to. A couple of the areas have become reasonably popular with local climbers as an occasional alternative to sandstone and as good training for granite climbing.

접근 문제들

Unlike many central Victorian granite areas where one major landowner owns all the land around a crag and can be negotiated with for access here the ownership is much more complex. Numerous old fences are found throughout the range attesting to the fact that the range has a mix of owners. In fact very little of it appears to be public land, and dozens of different private owners seem to own parts of the range. Some have little more than large suburban blocks but right up on top of the range! Consequently, despite the size of the range there appear to be only a small number of public access points and many of the cliffs are on private land. The road around the Speedway is on Crown Land, as are Car Wreck Blocks and the Turret. Dolerite Block is just over the boundary and on private land. The Bunjil saddle Cliff is on Crown Land as are the big and as yet unclimbed slabs seen at the South End of the range beyond Bunjils Cave.

접근

The Black Range is located just South of Stawell. Stawell is 250km West of Melbourne on the Western Highway. The Stawell/Pomonal road, also known as the Lake Fyans Rd, leaves the Western Hwy in Stawell. The Bunjil's Cave Road turn off is on the left 5km out of Stawell. This is the main access road which has been used for climbing so far. There are 3 distinct access points reached from this road. The Speedway Carpark - The Burrong Basin road leaves the Bunjil's Cave road and leads past private property to the Speedway where there is a small car park and locked gate. The road beyond the gate is shown on some road maps as a public road. Petrol Head Blocks, Dinosaur Rocks and the many blocks of Cave Hill are approached from this closed road. Western Outcrop Track - At 2.5 km along the Bunjil's Cave Road [opposite a house and about 1km before Bunjil's Cave] a minor track takes off on the left. This 4wd track leads to the summit of the hill with the Western Outcrop on it. The Western Outcrop, Burnt Shack Gully and Pinnacle Ridge are accessed from here. Bunjils Cave - 3.5km down the Bunjils Cave Rd is the signposted Bunijil's Cave reserve with a couple of picnic tables and a short walking track. Only the Bunjil Saddle Cliff has been accessed from here so far. Out of respect for indigenous culture no climbs have been done and no bolts have been placed within the Bunjil's Cave reserve area. A number of other access roads and tracks also lead into the hills from the Western Highway. Unfortunately all of these roads end at private houses, some with such welcoming signs as "Trespassers will be shot".

Summary:

고전등반, 암벽등반 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -35.986766, 144.207527

요약

The northern most climbing in Victoria. Too hot in summer. This crag is best in winter when everywhere else in Victoria is too wet.

설명

Large granite monolith near Pyramid Hill on the Tragowel Plains. The rock is large grained and very coarse and is of variable quality. There are some quality routes, but beauty may be in the eye of the beholder.

접근 문제들

This area is in a nature reserve and contains some rare and endangered flora and fauna. It may look pretty scrappy, but please take care and look after this area if you visit.

접근

From Melbourne/south, head to Pyramid Hill and then drive north on the Pyramid Hill - Leitchville Rd until you see the Major Mitchell Trail sign to Mt Hope. Turn left and drive 1.5 km on the dirt. Turn left at the first opportunity to get to the Picnic Ground, or drive another 500 m to the next left to reach Suicide Rock car park

숙박 장소

You can camp at Mt Hope, but it's pretty rough - no water or toilets. In summer the flies will carry you away during the day and the mosquitoes will take over after dark.

윤리문제

Trad as well as bolted sport routes. There is a mix of carrots and fixed hangers. Glue in bolts without fixed hangers are preferred as they reduce the visibility of fixed hardware.

Summary:

고전등반, 암벽등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: -35.985982, 144.208351

접근

1.5 km after turning off the bitumen onto the Mt Hope Rd, take the first turn left and drive 600 m up the track and park at the Picnic Ground (which is possibly an overstatement, but you will recognise it when you see it)

Summary:

모두 암벽등반

Summary:

모두 암벽등반

Summary:

암벽등반, 스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 고전등반

Lat / Long: -35.988183, 144.201699

설명

This place has possible new route potential if you are climbing overhanging granite. While the rock looks impressive, it is of variable quality and has many loose flakes and large crystals because of the arid climate. The flakes are also home to a large number of lizards and smaller rock dwellers. Please respect this reserve and only place glue in bolts WITHOUT fixed hangers and be aware that Peregrine Falcons nest in some of the nooks up on Suicide Rock.

접근

Turn onto Suicide Rock Road. Follow and park just before the gate, which will be about 100 metres from the base of the cliff. Choose your own adventure through the light bush to the base of each climb, though there are some faintly established tracks here and there.

하강시 주의점

Descent for climbs on the main block (Grasping at Immortality through to Touch me I'm Sick) is via walking off the back and east (left) going the easiest/ safest way possible. Once off the block a track takes you back down to the base of Grasping at Immortality.

Summary:

고전등반, 스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 톱로핑

Lat / Long: -35.988358, 144.200790

하강시 주의점

There is a descent gully over the back of Sleigh Ride. There are also chains at the top of Winterdreams.

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -35.989768, 144.200941

접근

From the car-park below Suicide Rock, take the track heading west through the locked gate. Follow this around as it curves south and you will see the wall up on your left once you get behind Suicide Rock. Wander up the gully.

Summary:

볼더링, 암벽등반 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: -36.596903, 143.704930

설명

Mount Kooyoora is located in Kooyoora State Park in the Goldfields Region of Victoria.

접근 문제들

Located in Kooyoora State Park.

숙박 장소

Camping is available at various sites throughout Kooyoora State Park.

Summary:

모두 암벽등반

Summary:

모두 암벽등반

Summary:

Mostly 암벽등반

Lat / Long: -36.600180, 143.693628

Summary:

암벽등반, 고전등반 그리고 톱로핑

Lat / Long: -36.585072, 143.697828

Summary:

모두 볼더링

요약

A beautiful landscape bestowed with boulders of all sizes. Many aesthetic rocks are present, however, despite its potential, the rock quality tends to be quite poor, brittle, and gravelly.

숙박 장소

Melville's Campground has excellent camping and toilet facilities.

윤리문제

Minimal chalk use. Brush all holds and tick marks after climbing. No bolting.

역사

No known recorded history until 2020. Names, grades, and first ascensionist details can be edited if others are aware.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

요약

A beautiful landscape bestowed with boulders of all sizes. Many aesthetic rocks are present, however, despite its potential, the rock quality tends to be quite poor, brittle, and gravelly.

숙박 장소

Melville's Campground has excellent camping and toilet facilities.

윤리문제

Minimal chalk use. Brush all holds and tick marks after climbing. No bolting.

역사

No known recorded history until 2020. Names, grades, and first ascensionist details can be edited if others are aware.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

설명

Half decent trackside boulder field location tbc.

접근 문제들

Limited parking on side of road/track where there is minimal vegetation. Strictly no parking off road/track as directed by Parks Victoria.

접근

<60 seconds.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

설명

Scattered escarpment/boulder field right side of the road heading up to Sundial Boulders bit before the forested section.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

설명

Boulder field left of the road/track heading up to Sundial Boulders. Descent routes need cleaning at the very least.

접근 문제들

Limited parking on side of road where there is minimum vegetation. Strictly no parking off the road/track as directed by Parks Victoria.

접근

60-90 seconds.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

요약

Small roadside boulder field/quarry on the way to Melville Caves.

설명

Room to park on side of road, crag is opposite private land please be mindful.

접근

<10 seconds.

Summary:

고전등반, 볼더링 그리고 암벽등반

Lat / Long: -37.270722, 143.229378

설명

Mount Cole is located in Mount Cole State Park, in the Goldfields Region of Victoria.

접근 문제들

Located in Mount Cole State Park.

접근

Mount Cole State Park is a one hour drive west of Ballarat in Victoria.

설명

Boulder fields to the West of Elmhurst.

접근 문제들

Access is unclear - not located in the bounds of the Mt Cole State Park, may be in private farm land? Needs further investigation

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.229445, 143.194036

설명

Multipitch granite slab climbing with fantastic views over the countryside.

접근

From Melbourne take the Western Highway through Beaufort, to Buangor, and a kilometre after this turn right to Warrak. At Warrak turn right onto the Mt Cole Road. After about 8 kilometres driving up the hill through the forest, turn left onto Ben Nevis Road. Follow this until you reach Cowan Track (if you reach the Telstra/fire tower you've gone too far) and turn left. Travel along Cowan Track for approximately 500m and turn right onto Red Rock Track. After another 500m you should reach a car park with emergency marker BNS100. Note: If you attempt to follow Google directions, it will try and send you past Chinaman's Campground along a dirt road. Above directions will have you on a decent gravel road.

하강시 주의점

From the carpark head north across the top of the slabs to several large boulders with a wind indicator. Across and below these is a large boulder, and below this is the first of the rap chains. Its a bit tricky to find first time. Three fifty metre abseils vearing left as you face out from the cliff, will get you to the ground.

역사

History and general info, including a topo, are in the North West Vic VCC guidebook, 2002.

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: -37.225995, 143.198279

설명

The large cliff a short distance North of the Fire Tower.

역사

Some info on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/BenNevis/BenNevis.htm#Read History and general info in the North West Vic VCC guidebook, 2002.

Summary:

모두 볼더링

Lat / Long: -37.228212, 143.201087

설명

Various boulders scattered near the Firetower atop Ben Nevis.

접근

Follow the Mt Cole Road and Ben Nevis Road to the Firetower. Unsealed, but in very good condition and easily accessible by 2WD - be careful of Google Maps directions as it tends to route via the various other tracks which are mostly heavily rutted 4WD tracks.

역사

First recorded lines added in January 2020

설명

Quite a number of short granite climbs in a forest setting. For full info, you'll still need to refer to the North West Vic printed guide, 2002.

North West Guide

Table of contents

1. North West 12,719 routes in Region

1.1. Arapiles 3,289 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Bushranger Bluff 42 routes in Area

1.1.2. Declaration Crag Area 49 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Colosseum Wall Area 49 routes in Crag

1.1.4. King Rat Area 143 routes in Crag

1.1.5. Pilot Error Cliffs 63 routes in Crag

1.1.6. Atridae 64 routes in Crag

1.1.7. Organ Pipes Area 145 routes in Crag

1.1.8. Central Gully 489 routes in Crag

1.1.9. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 196 routes in Crag

1.1.10. Bard Buttress 25 routes in Cliff

Access: Closure

1.1.11. Bluffs 115 routes in Crag

1.1.12. Tiger Wall Area 193 routes in Crag

1.1.13. Castle Crag 35 routes in Cliff

Access: Crag closed

1.1.14. Grotto Wall Area 48 routes in Area

1.1.15. Voodoo Area 127 routes in Crag

1.1.16. The Pharos and Surrounds 465 routes in Crag

1.1.17. The Watchtower Faces 259 routes in Crag

1.1.18. Northern Group 242 routes in Crag

1.1.19. Far North 213 routes in Crag

1.1.20. Mitre Rock 127 routes in Crag

1.1.21. Western Side 199 routes in Crag

1.1.22. Playground/Golf Links 1 route in Field

1.2. Grampians 9,163 routes in Region

1.2.1. North Grampians 3,270 routes in Region

1.2.2. The Black Range 290 routes in Area

1.2.3. Central Grampians 735 routes in Region

1.2.4. Halls Gap Area 1,387 routes in Area

1.2.5. South-Eastern Grampians 909 routes in Area

1.2.6. Victoria Range 2,566 routes in Area

1.2.7. Black Range Granite (near Stawell) 5 routes in Area

1.3. Mt Hope 65 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Picnic Ground 16 routes in Sector

1.3.2. Dead Sheep Gully 1 route in Sector

1.3.3. Suicide Boulders 2 routes in Sector

1.3.4. Suicide Rock 11 routes in Cliff

1.3.5. Side Outcrop 24 routes in Sector

1.3.6. The Dark Side 11 routes in Cliff

1.4. Mt Kooyoora 157 routes in Crag

1.4.1. Lost Rox 7 routes in Area

1.4.2. Bitumen Blues Boulders 3 routes in Area

1.4.3. Melville's Caves 37 routes in Area

1.4.4. The Courtyard 19 routes in Area

1.4.5. Area 1 21 routes in Area

1.4.6. Area 2 4 routes in Area

1.4.7. Sundial Boulders 29 routes in Field

1.4.8. The Infidel 1 route in Field

1.4.9. The Savannah 7 routes in Field

1.4.10. Black Spot 29 routes in Field

1.5. Mt Cole 45 routes in Crag