A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Kladnig
GavinThe size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Rubble Box 3 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rubble Box
- Summary:
요약
This teetering mass runs left from the buttress 18m above the top of the Connie buttress.
설명
Best approached from the top car parks or via BHP and the short chimney behind the Connie buttress (LHS).
접근 문제들
Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.
Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.
The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.
In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.
윤리문제
Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Kabolos
The flake system leading to an offwidth roof at the base of the grass ramp running down from the cliff top (RHS of the cliff) and just left of an orange groove. Follow the line. FA: Robert Stow, David Gray & Brian Cooper, 1982 | 13 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
Xanado
Start beneath the orange scoop just left of Kabolos. Climb the groove till a move left brings an airy mantle onto a prominent ledge on the arete. Walk or scramble off. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1980 | 12 | 8m | |||
| 3 |
Disneyland
This is the deep corner/gully behind a large tree 50m left of Xanado. FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson, James Cowmeadow & Jenny Anderson, 1983 | 10 | 15m | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10 | Disneyland | 15m | |||
| 12 | Xanado | 8m | |||
| 13 | Kabolos | 15m |