등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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일요일 20번째 1월 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Excalibur
![]()
1
12m
2
16
15m
3
15
27m
4
24m
5
17
22m
| 100m, 1 | |||||
금요일 18번째 1월 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Scimitar
![]() | 91m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Mega line, Mega exposure I felt it was spot on at the grade a must do for aspiring trad leaders. 9 hrs car to car.
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월요일 14번째 1월 2019 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★ Room to Move
![]() | 65m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
bloody hard start! I found this way harder than Scimitar as the jams were quite tight for me
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수요일 26번째 12월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★ Agent Orange
![]() | 90m, 3 | |||||
Good. Gear was .75 friend behind flake at start, 3/bolt plates and thread 2 slings.
Crux is moving in to first scoop.
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월요일 24번째 12월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★ Liquid Sky
![]() | 40m, 10 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Excelent technical face climbing!
7 bolt plates, dbl rack .5 - #2 friends, 2 smal- medium nuts.
Lower off from chains. 60m rope just gets you down.
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17 |
★ Zoro's Toaster
![]() | 28m | |||||
6 plates + 1 medium nut does it.
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월요일 24번째 12월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | |||||
First shot
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20 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses
![]() | 72m | |||||
Excelent exciting adventure climb. Linked P1&P2, and P3&P4 together. P1 is beautiful and can be done as a single pitch. P2 really enjoyable funky climbing in to the corner under roof. Belay stance was on top the suspended somewhat worrying block but good pro (sml-med cams) . P3 was probably my most exciting trad lead yet.. #4 deep in under roof crack then a couple of pumpy moves. Continue corner crack to top. Belay off tree which had on it slings and biners. 2 x 70m ropes easily got us to the ground in one rap with rope to spare. 60s might just work to but best to check!
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목요일 25번째 10월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★ Grunter
![]() | 51m | |||||
only half way, top rope
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16 |
Vivowak
![]() | 110m | |||||
월요일 15번째 10월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
the first pitch felt hard for 18 but perhaps that's because it the first pitch and Im rusty from not climbing much lately...
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20 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses
![]() | 72m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
The snug belay under the roof is on some hollow sounding blocks - they are most probably safe but treat them gently!
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일요일 14번째 10월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 |
★ Death-bed Confession
![]() | 60m, 10 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
17 |
★★ Sap
![]()
1
17
30m
2
3
| 30m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
토요일 13번째 10월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fantastic Climb! Nick managed to on sight the first pitch whilst I defended our bag from a nosy magpie then we camped out at the first belay waiting for a shower to clean and debating how wet the final pitch was going to be, thankfully not very! ran pitch 2 and 3 together. Great way to end the day but meant we were late for the sheep roast.
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19 |
★ Agent Orange
![]() | 90m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Pitch 1 only
Great looking line and climbs really nicely. Gear beta - green cam low, red in a pocket between 1st and 2nd carrot and #4 near the top (probably unnecessary) green directional in the roof. First bolt is large RP plate just fit but a wire would be better. Keen to go back and lead this at some stage
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Pitch 1 only Back to crack school for me. Got through the crux and the off width up high with no issues but fell out of the hand crack when i didn't engage the foot jam correctly, a little frustrating but good to take my first fall on gear. One for next time! Great climbing.
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일요일 30번째 9월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 |
★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt)
![]() | 30m, 8 | |||||
14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
일요일 23번째 9월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
22 |
FA
★★★ Knights of Cydonia
![]() | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
FFA. Two good pitches. great job marty on finding this gem
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목요일 13번째 9월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
18 |
FA
★ Forgetful
![]() | 70m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
20 |
FA
★ Dairy Heroin
![]() | 70m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
일요일 9번째 9월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]() | 90m, 4 | |||||
목요일 6번째 9월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
18 19 |
★ Glockenspiel Crack (This water tastes like diesel)
![]() | 60m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
목요일 30번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ TDM
![]() | 35m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
일요일 26번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 |
★ Boulder Climb
![]() | 81m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
19 |
★ Agent Orange
![]() | 90m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
수요일 22번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Crossing The Rubicon
![]() | 38m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
월요일 20번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★★ Flashbacks
![]() | 40m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
2nding Emil Mandyczewsky . An interesting premise, but not so good in reality. Caked with moss, average-to-poor rock (lots of teetering blocks), poor carrots, and average fiddly gear. Has all the makings of a face epic, but was more type-2 fun, in reality. Glad Emil was the one to lead it and not me
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일요일 19번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
![]() | 25m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Super awesome crack route with some wideness in the middle that I found super challenging. You don't need anything smaller than a #0.75 camalot but make sure you have two or more #4s and a #5. Absolutely perfect rock in the lower half!
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18 |
★★ Decline and Fall (Decline and Fall P1)
![]() | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Flash placing gear. Funky corner that is way easier than it looks. I finally got to use some of my micro cams and in a short section of absolutely amazing rock! It gains an extra star from me just for that.
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20 |
★★★ Ishtar (Ishtar P1)
![]() | 25m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Flash placing gear. Seriously good jamming after only two metres of choss. Great varied crack climb on crazy slick rock! Should join the list of must do classics at this crag! Glad you persuaded me to do it Neil!
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18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Climbed as a mega pitch from the ground to the double bolt belay half way up pitch four and 8m of rambling from the very of the cliff. The most fun I've had on a rock climb in ages!!! If you do it in this way, which I totally totally recommend, it is probably the best trad route in the Greater Blue Mountains area! Amazingly clean and varied corner crack climbing at a sustained grade for almost 75m!! You can have this amazing single pitch adventure with just one 80m rope which can then be used to do two bolted raps to get back down. I took a hilariously enormous rack (even broke out the gear sling) but you might get away reasonably comfortably with triple cams, a bunch of wires and a million quick draws!
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18 |
★★ Decline and Fall
![]() | 99m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Climbed on jenna's gear as the weather turned ugly. Way cruisier than it looks from the ground.
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20 |
★★★ Ishtar
![]() | 50m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
One of the best crack routes at the grade anywhere. So good.
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great to tick off this classic. The middle wide section was quite tricky. Perfect rock.
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Super fun to climb as as one mega pitch.
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일요일 19번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Tranzister
![]() | 40m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fell off the crux of this a couple of years back. Sent placing the gear today. Cruisy climbed up to a hard crux and then fun finger crack to top.
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일요일 19번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★ Flashpoint
![]() | 80m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
P1 only, finished up Flashbacks. Lost my head on the Onsight at the crux struggling with sandy holds (I removed a huge block from a key jam) and dirty footers. About 6m of great climbing (the end of the traverse and the laybacking) and lots of sandy junk otherwise.
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18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Linked the 1st 3 pitches as a giant 65m megapitch of dreamy, sustained corner-crack climbing. Became quite exciting (and moderately sketchy) with my relatively limited double-rack as I got higher and higher. A contender for one of the most "consistently good" crack multis in the Greater Blue Mountains area.
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일요일 19번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Tranzister
![]() | 40m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Immaculate crack (barring a single loose block in the lower 3rd), though very cruxy. The headwall in particular is oodles of easy fun. I gunned up the start and the finish of this, but stalled out for an eternity at the crux, up-climbing and down-climbing before committing. When I finally did it was easy, and rad. I enjoyed this more than TDM, though its not as sustained.
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18 |
★★ Monitor Madness
![]() | 50m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Past tick.
Great adventure climb up a great feature.
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19 |
★ Positively 4th Street
![]() | 43m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Past tick
The fingers section was great but the sand above, not so good
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22 |
★★ Dien Bien Phu
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Past tick
Another great slab, I vaguely remember some very thin holds
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20 |
★★ Khe Sanh
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Past tick
Really fun slab.
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16 |
★★ Conspiracy
![]() | 45m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Past tick.
Did this a few years ago on a very cold (-7) morning. Big trad corner..
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토요일 18번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
![]() | 45m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Seriously major line with some great climbing and some gripping sections. A totally worthwhile warm up at the crag.
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Went up it at the end of the day in the light rain with no beta to get the draws back. Truly awesome varied and improbable slabbing with a bit of spice added by the bolt spacing. I learnt that runout wet slabs are hard and scary.
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20 |
★★★ TDM
![]() | 35m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
First route of the day. Really awesome finger crack after the less than ideal start. Some of the loose seeming blocks are quite scary but after you turn the lip it is totally dreamy. Don't bail left to the bolts at the ledge because some of the more exciting moves are above that and for the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor!
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21 |
★★★ Tranzister
![]() | 40m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Basically an onsight placing all the gear but there had been talk of the route all day and so i had a bit of an idea of what the crux entailed. In true form though everyone else's tall person beta was of no help to me! Really great climb but insanely cruxy. Absolutely eats wires and if you had a double rack of them you almost wouldn't need to bother with cams.
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23 |
★★★ Chrysalis
![]() | 35m, 11 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fell off the crux on the onsight. Sent 2nd shot but still tricky. Super technical and sustained.
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fell off this a couple of years ago after getting lost. Cruised it today, absolute classic.
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23 |
★★★ Chrysalis
![]() | 35m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Exciting in the intermittent rain. Would've been a very different proposition without Jason McCarthy and Jenna Brady 's chalk on it. Flash from the 3rd bolt up (I slipped off a damp hold going for the 3rd bolt, lowered back to the ledge, and went to the top from there... skipping the tree start). Similar to Barton's effort stylistically, but more sustained, intense, thinner, and demanding. Deserves more traffic.
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
No-beta flash, but Jason McCarthy had kindly equipped and chalked up the route for us. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but climbs brilliantly, and with some spicy spaced bolting that is just on the right side of sanity. Very technical, varied, wandery, sustained slabbing. Reminded me of The Belles, The Belles at Railway Cliffs (which is a good thing!)
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20 |
★★★ TDM
![]() | 35m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).
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20 |
★★★ TDM
![]() | 35m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Placing gear but with chalk all over it I can't claim an onsight. I think this is better, harder and longer then tranzister. Great rock on this one.
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21 |
★★★ Tranzister
![]() | 40m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
The reason we came here 7 years ago (but forgot small gear) and the reason we came back today. Great onsight by Emil which set the theme for many flash repeats placing gear. Hard pull at the crux roof with bomber gear then good crack holds above.
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Tuff warm up, I can tell I haven't climbed many slabs recently cause this felt hard. Great fun though.
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목요일 16번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Arete Central
![]() | 35m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
수요일 15번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mysts of time
![]() | 50m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Amazing hand crack.
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일요일 12번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
화요일 7번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★★ Dien Bien Phu
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | |||||
Foot popped
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | |||||
일요일 5번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★ Geriaction
![]() | 25m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
금요일 3번째 8월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | |||||
20 |
★★ Sublime
![]() | 65m, 13 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | |||||
20 |
★★ Sublime
![]() | 65m, 13 | |||||
목요일 26번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★ Sublime
![]() | 65m, 13 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
수요일 25번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | |||||
월요일 16번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
17 |
Bare Essence
![]() | 45m | |||||
17 |
★★ Helzapoppin
![]() | 45m | |||||
20 |
★★ Khe Sanh
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
일요일 15번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | |||||
18 |
★★ Spaghetti Western
![]()
2
~에 의해 선등된
Dale Rankin
| 55m, 14 | |||||
18 |
★★ Monitor Madness
![]() | 50m, 8 | |||||
토요일 14번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | |||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | |||||
20 |
★★ Sublime
![]() | 65m, 13 | |||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
화요일 10번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★ Khe Sanh
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
great crimping on good rock
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18 |
★★ Monitor Madness
![]() | 50m, 8 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Great climbing that takes a really great line on some of the coal mines best exposure
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
great, well bolted, sustained climbing with the addition of good rock makes this a must do if you are up at the coal mines. Bring a #1 BD camelot for the first break
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화요일 10번째 7월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
great rock and the crack climbing is nice and varied. The start could now very well be the crux
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19 |
★ Agent Orange
![]() | 90m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Rock is a bit scungy and feels like some of the holds in the scoop might just pull off but the climbing is fun. Bring a wire for the slot before the bolt and another for the first bolt because the neck of the bolt was very fat
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20 |
★★ My Crown of Thorns
![]() | 50m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Good, sustained climbing that deserves to be more popular.
Either climb agent orange or cactus pitch 1.
Needs 10 bolt brackets and a number 5 dmm wire.
move right at the second bolt for the bulge as it is desperate if you stay in line.
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월요일 25번째 6월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★ Maquillage
![]() | 70m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Great climbing but I couldn't get PFH bracket plates on the bolts so had to jiggle wires on the bolts. A shame because it seriously detracts from the climb.
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월요일 25번째 6월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Helzapoppin
![]() | 45m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Lovely climbing, looked like the bolts were bashins though.
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20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Really awesome face climbing, with some (still) spicy runouts. One of the best climbs I've done in the Bluies.
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월요일 25번째 6월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★ Grunter
![]() | 51m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
I enjoy this type of thing but my partner didn't. The top section was quite dirty. The first pitch up to the tree makes a great beginner corner.
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
I enjoyed this climb, it had a very trad feel to it and provided plenty of entertainment
|
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15 |
★★ Monkey Business
![]() | 30m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
This had some interesting climbing in it and was probably the best finish to Organ Grinder
|
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
This is a great climb, the first pitch is nice technical bridging, the second is easier than it looks from the ground and interesting pulling around the arete. The final pitch is still good climbing.
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월요일 25번째 6월 2018 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Barton's Effort
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
I didn't like the start but the rest of the route was amazing. very interesting varied moves all the way up. I felt that the bolts were quite sportingly spaced and it was probably a little hard for the grade but then this is the Wolgan.
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17 |
★★ Helzapoppin
![]() | 45m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
The climbing on this route is great, the protection is not as great as the guide makes out. Nuts can often be found in between bolts but they are fiddly and not great.
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