★★★ Stop the Bolts! 22

An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.

1. 15m (21) Start at sandy corner 5m to the left of the rap route (when facing the rock). Belay on top of little rock ledge above ferns. Cautiously up sandy flake to base of fused corner. Bridge up this (fiddly but bomber trad) then hand traverse right to belay ledge and DRB belay. Don't forget the bigger cams.

2. 25m (22) The best pitch of trad near Sydney? From the ledge swing left onto arete to secret hold (and cam placement) then straight up to splitter finger crack. Follow weakness up overhung orange wall, traversing a bit right and then back left to a single bolt. After a cruxy move past the bolt traverse right a metre then another tough move to finish on small ledge on left and DRB belay. If you are keen you could link this into the next pitch.

3. 15m (21 A0) A bit dirty and scary. Right a metre onto face then up to horizontal. Trend left up dug out crack onto slab and up to DRBs and fixed rope. Hand over hand up this rope past blank slab and vegetated slope (!) to DRB on large terrace.

4. 25m (20) Up little corner then traverse right along airy horizontal past high RB and right again to little corner. Stem up this to large vegetated cave. Either bush bash right for 3m then wander up easy corner system to arrive at summit rocks or...

5. 8m (22) Belay in cave at 'hairy rock' DRBs then do the optional finish through juggy roof on left side of cave. Two RBs and tricky mantle out.

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

• The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
• Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
• No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
• Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
• Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
• Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
• Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
• Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
• Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
• Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
• Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
• Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
• Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education