모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기
접속점 |
---|
Main Wall
Large upper wall with impressive roofs. |
The Laboratory
The first area you will reach where the access trail meets the wall. Routes have been re-organized LEFT to RIGHT. |
The Laboratory |
These are the first climbs you will come to where the trail meets the main wall, forming the left-en
These are the first climbs you will come to where the trail meets the main wall, forming the left-end of the Laboratory. The left-most two can be used to access The Asylum. |
5.9
★ Tech Quilla
Thin slab climbing left of "Set it on Fire" |
5.8
★ Set it on Fire
Work your way up the face at a crack. |
5.10b
★★★ Catch Me If IFly
Climb Set It On Fire, clip a long draw on the anchor and continue up steep bouldery crack to the roof. Pull roof and follow amazing hand crack to the very top of the cliff. Full value. SR rack to #3, 2nd #3 helpful for crux, #4 optional. Anchor added, route cleaned and led in May 2020. |
5.10a
★★ Wacko Tango
Most of the cliff and approach is on crown land. Some of the climbing is on private land -- the owner (John Jeffrey) has, historically, been friendly. "He likes to talk." Please be courteous and friendly if you meet him -- likely running around on a 4-wheeler. There are, also, usually active nesting Peregrine falcons on the left side of the main cliff (left of the waterfall) -- avoid this area during the spring and summer months. |
5.12b
★★ The Feather
The Longest route on the cliff. Climb a thin seam to a bolt and then continue weaving your way up the arête. Continue to a ledge then a hard cruxy section of the route that begins with a series of 3 bolts trending left. Clip these and at the third bolt make a hard move straight up. Make another two or three difficult moves and then finish on easier holds above. |
5.10a
★★ Death from above
Route starts just right of "The Feather". Climb flakes to a small roof, exit left at 3rd bolt and then straight up a small dihedral. At the 2nd roof step right , traverse under and out right side of next roof then up the arete to anchor. Be aware that rock quality on route is not as good as others nearby. Several slings useful to avoid drag. Massive cleaning effort from Christian Lafleur. |
5.10c
★★ Blame it on the block
Climb through the obvious weakness at the right end of the 1st large roof. Pull through the crux roof on jugs. Easier climbing above with a couple devious slab moves guarding the chains. |
5.7
★★ Run for cover
2 pitch line that weaves between the massive roofs, taking the line of least resistance. Originally led on-sight on gear, you can now take advantage of a few bolts from other routes on P1. Start as per "Fisticuffs", but continue up and left from the hand crack and belay on the anchors of "Death from above". P2 involves adventurous slab climbing rightwards towards a big pine tree and exit above and right. Belay from trees at top of cliff. P2 largely uncleaned and still has some loose rock, please use caution. |
5.11c
★★★ Mister Fister
Look for the striking roof crack in the 2nd tier roof as you approach the cliff. Start at 1st bolt of "A Just War" and traverse left along a crack/ledge system almost to the arete, use long runners for drag. Climb a right leaning hand-crack (maybe 5.8) to the base of the roof. Plug a #4 above your head, breath, then jam your way out the roof on fists and hands before pulling the roof. |
5.12-
★★★ A Just War
Start left of Calm Like A Bomb. Climb the ramp, clip the directional and the first bolt on the roof, make a big reach to the V notch. Move up and right past the roof. Catch a rest, then climb the arete to another wild rest. Technical and sustained climbing near the top. |
5.11b
★★ Calm Like a Bomb
Left of the big roof, middle route that starts on the blackened slab underneath a smaller/lower roof. Start on the ramp, clip a bolt off the ramp. Powerful moves on big holds down low to more technical climbing on smaller holds up high. |
5.10d
★ Ambiguous
Climb up the black slab to the roof, clip a bolt. Pull hard through the roof and to a nice rest. Continue on trending right and up till you meet the large roof. Follow along under the roof, trending left until you can bypass it. Shares an anchor with Calm Like a Bomb. |
The next four routes share a common start up a blocky buttress:
Stick clip a bolt on the left side
The next four routes share a common start up a blocky buttress: Stick clip a bolt on the left side of a blocky buttress, then up past a 2nd bolt to a large ledge about 20 feet off the ground. |
5.10b
★★ A Day Without Sunshine Is Lik,e Night
Follow Cardiac Arete up through the Open Corner (2nd bolt), but instead of moving right, continue directly up the corner, sling a tree, and keep going, exiting through the same crack as Cardiac Arete. |
5.10b
★★★ Cardiac Arete
Climb the common start, then clip a bolt on the face to the left, pull onto it over a roof, then up into an open corner to a bolt (clip long to reduce drag), right to a bolt on the face, then up the arete (either side, as needed) to finish through a crack above. |
5.10c
Cardiac Arrhythmia
A different finish to "Cardia Arete" - climb it until, near the top, it is possible to move right on towards another bolt. Clip and continue rightwards to a fixed station. |
5.5
★ The Mute
After the shared start, climb up and right into the large obvious corner. Cleaned by Matt -- a major effort. |
5.11a
★ Beaver Thiever
Named after the local who hiked up to booty the dead beaver from the waterfall during the FA. Largely moderate climbing with a couple tricky cruxes, likely to feel harder on the on-sight. |
5.10c
★★ Welcome to the Jungle
The last route seen as you approach the cliff from below -- look for bolts heading up from near the top of the approach trail. |
The Asylum
The Asylum is the left-section of the Main Cliff, starting up and left from the Laboratory. Routes listed right to left. This is the left part of The Asylum. Routes listed right to left. |
The Asylum |
Asylum Right |
5.10b
★★ The Recluse
Start just left of rappel anchor. Climb small left facing corner though overhang. Sustained. |
5.12c
★★ Screaming Chewbaka
Start up and move right into crack and thin seam. Follow bolts up into and though roof. Sustained. A 60m rope will (just) make it to the the bottom of the Laboratory at Tech Quilla from these anchors. |
5.13a
★★★ Jaberwaki
Shared start with Chewbaka. Head up toward chain draw. Head up passed two bolt station and finish at the end of Chewbaka. |
5.12b
Jedi Alternative
As Jaberwaki but move left onto arete after the chain draw. |
Asylum Left
Follow the fixed lines up and left from Asylum Right. |
5.13+
★★★ JetPack
Climb the arete until you hit the crux where a Jetpack is needed to hit a reach hold on the face |
5.13d
★★★ Hard Line Cafe
Follow overhanging face up to roof. Power thought the roof to the anchor. |
5.12b
★★★ Hard Line Cafe Alt
Follow Hard Line to roof and exit right toward arete. Finish on Jabba. |
5.12c
★★★ Rebellion
Stick clip first and second bolt! Sustained climbing all the way though the notch in the roof. |
5.11c
★★ Pitter Patter Let's Get Ar'er
Start in corner then move right onto thin seam and into a dish. Finish on Rebellion. |
5.10c
Read Between The Lines
Start as Pitter Patter. Approximately half way up move right into a dish and finish as or Pitter Patter. |
5.10a
★★ Battle Star Galactica
Start on good holds up to the chain draw and up to the station on wild holds. |
5.11d
★★ The Mellennium Flappin'
Climb Falcon but go straight up the overlap though under cling and long reach to a nice pocket. Pull over the blank section to the top. |
5.10b
★★ The Millennium Falcon
Climb nice features though the low section to the 3rd bolt in the overlap and escape left to the arete and up to the top. |
The West Wing
New addition left of Main Cliff |
The West Wing |
5.10c
★★★ Chuck-wylde
First route you will encounter after the waterfall. Slabby start into steep and generally juggy climbing up the slightly overhanging orange wall. |
5.10b
★★ Pure Bliss
1st half of route is fairly easy, 2nd half steepens with great movement! |
5.8
★★ Vic wouldn't like this!
Middle route on the streaked black/white wall. |
5.8
★★ LRNA
Climber's left of the streaked black/white wall. Enjoyable face climbing through small roof. |
모든 {수} {대상들} 보이기