루트들 Ontario에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

10m left of Someone's Overhang. Climb the easy bolted face to a large ledge (5.3, 10m). There are 2 bolted lines from there. Climb the right one to a rap anchor.

Start around the corner, 5m left of Piton-be-gone. Climb the technical steep slab. Sustained.

Located in the center of a hidden, but larger, section of the cliff. Walk 50m left of the main wall along the bottom of the cliff. Climb up through and around a number of overhangs to chains. A steel locker is on the chains for ease.

Closed.

Variant first pitch for Tumbling Dice. Possibly not repeated.

Rarely repeated.

Original ascent with aid on 2nd pitch by M de St Jorre and R.M. Preshaw in July 1982 (at about 5.7, A1). Now free but unknown who freed it.

Possibly never repeated. A short route at the top of the cliff, was originally abseiled into, but that is no longer allowed. Might be accessible by a traverse from the third belay of The Joke.

First two pitches as per the joke, then branches right.

Accidentally climbed by someone trying to repeat Queer Duck. Rarely or never repeated.

Not often repeated.

Rarely to never repeated.

Not often repeated.

More direct (and more difficult) finish for The Entertainer

HIgh Wind Over Jamaica starts left of Vertiginous at a left-leaning crack, roughly at the tall birch tree visible from the water.

The route begins by going straight up to a black area on the rock (around 10m up), then tending right and up towards two thin ramps heading towards a ledge. There appear to be multiple ways to pass these ramps. We opted for the overhanging crack further to the right, protected extremely well with a #3 C4. This is the crux. After a good rest, continue up another headwall (5.7-8ish) to the belay at the top of Vertiginous' second pitch.

Finish on Vertiginous.

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Work though low overhang bulge onto the ledge and work your way though the crimpy face and quartz filled crack.

Jam though the nice hand crack right of the overhanging bulge to gain the ledge. Work up the flake and crimps into easier ledges. Removal of a leaning flake has increased the difficulty of this route and made the moves above the ledge a bit sketchy. Another bolt may be added between 3 and 4 to make it safer.

Start left of "Make It So" under the bulbous small roof. Pull though decent holds onto featured slab. Joins "Make It So" at 3rd bolt. This climb is unsafe to bolt/lead as the entire bottom slab is hollow. Belay should stand as "Make It So" with a redirect though the second bolt to avoid line trap.

Easy slab climbing to the second bolt. Pull the crux bulge which is somewhat reachy onto easy ground to the top.

It is possible to bypass the crux of "Assimilation" by heading left early on large chalk covered holds and traversing a few meters off the bolt line before coming back to an awkward clip then heading left again and rejoining "Assimilation" above in the dihedral under the roof. The bypass is 5.8ish and has a nasty pendulum fall potential.

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

The historically run-out (though with a clean fall) finish has, apparently, now had a bolt installed to protect it, above the crack in which the (historical, optional) piece would have been placed.

(Finish was a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack. The block below the crack is hollow and a fall on gear could dislodge it.)

Anchor is in a big detached block.

Start just left of Karma Points under the small roof. Head up to jug rail and pull directly though the roof onto the slab and up the slab. Finish on Karma Points at end of slab. Dihedral on right is completely out. Contrived eliminate. Has 2-3 great moves though the roof. Jug under roof on left is tempting, loose and not required as pinching the corner above is enough.

Shares Karma Points bolts. Suggest pre-cliping second bolt to avoid potentially serious swing.

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

Try not to be lured off route by the chalk and crumbly jugs on the far left under the roof. Stay true to the bolt line for the full experience - and grade.

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits you out onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

Start as Head Banger. At the first rail instead of going up though the rails escape left to arete. Gain the arete and rejoin Head Banger.

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Starts 2m right of Neat Cafe. Head up the crack to a low angle ramp then stroll up the jug haul above.

Climb the corner right of the bolted arete, to a steep finish.

Gear in the initial section is thin (assuming you avoid placing behind the detached looking pillar), though could be supplemented by borrowing a bolt or two from Arête.

It has a stone at the base labeling it "Dumbasser-ee 5.8 T", but if you head up this expecting a reasonable 5.8 trad climb, you will be unpleasantly surprised.

Start 5m left of "Live Rust".

Climb a short broken corner/bulge and step to the base of a thin ski tracks crack system. Follow the ski tracks up to a small birch tree on a broken ledge (13m). Move left along the ledge to a small overhanging dihedral (protected by a piton), which is climbed to the top. Alternatively, 2 bolts on the right of the dihedral can be used to climb to the top (Note: No additional anchor for this variation as of Nov. 2020)

The bolted line immediately right of the obvious “Offwidth Your Head” crack. Head up the face using the arete as needed. After the final crux, escape the blank face above and finish right of the anchor.

In spring of 2022, bolts were added to reach an existing anchor of unknown origin. Possible retro-bolting of a bold, undocumented trad line? If you like thin moves and runouts on small gear, this would make for a worthy greenpoint.

SDS left side. Hit the lip and topout.

SDS right of Dull Razor. Up to pinch and top out.

The only sport route on the Lichen Wall. Fixed anchor above, but the rap rings and chains never seem to last long on this route. Plan to walk-off.

Low crux protected by RURP. Joins All the Nasties. Harder variations possible.

At the right end of the cliff. Head up the slabby corner crack to some short overhangs. Pull up and through to a good stance before diving into the corner that's a little awkward until you find what you're looking for. Mantle onto the slab above towards the anchors.

Right hand on the lower sloper rail, left on the faint crimp, and right foot on the good foot. Work up and right avoiding the holds of 'Good boy/girl' and 'Puppy play'

LDS. Start left of Hang Slab around corner. Match on slopper and pull up into nice crimps and top.

To the left of the Bartholomew Crack lays a double jug start. Go up from there.

Sit start with hands on lowest holds just to the right of graffiti. Go up on holds above graffiti and top out left of little bush.

Route starts just right of "The Feather". Climb flakes to a small roof, exit left at 3rd bolt and then straight up a small dihedral. At the 2nd roof step right , traverse under and out right side of next roof then up the arete to anchor. Be aware that rock quality on route is not as good as others nearby. Several slings useful to avoid drag. Massive cleaning effort from Christian Lafleur.

Start on good holds up to the chain draw and up to the station on wild holds.

Follow the right-trending bolt line to the anchor.

Bolted face climb with interesting moves and good rock. Originally a 5.9 trad. Start 3m right of number 2

Starts from the ledge on 'Steve's Arete'

Start at number 8.

Starting from the belay ledge, climb up to the bolt on 'Funky Fingers'.

Starts 1m left of 'Dilly Dally'.

Starts 2m left of "Be a Hoot..", starts up the obvious flakes and cracks to a ledge. Continue up along a right facing crack and small roof to great face climbing and a second ledge. Another short section of face climbing will bring you to the anchors.

use 2 alpine draws to reduce drag!

Start at number 18. Climb the crack over the bulge to a small ledge. Follow the crack system to a small ledge below a slanting roof. Pull the roof and finish through the trees.

The bolted climb to the right of The Chemist's Returns. Up the arete and veer left to a ledge, then back onto the arete to the anchor.

Variant of Ice Castle Plus. Starts to the right, then continues to shared anchor.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Start 2m right of Limbo.

Climb to the ledge to the bolt between the two trees. The crux is about 2/3 up the route, making it a bit of a hard endurance push for climbers working the grade. Ledge can also be gained from far left by Stand & Deliver.

Starts on a solid layback for the first few bolts and then moves to a more technical slab near the top.

Climb relatively straight cracks to an overhang. Exit left instead of pulling the overhang.

Climb up blocky terrain to an overhanging arete that leads to easier holds. Try to avoid going into the corner and using the tree.

This five ten fun is Located on the right face of the arête before the chossy roof on the furthest left side of the ledge. Features two small cruxes separated by a great rest.

Located on the "The Party on Pinnacle" ledge, its the right most bolted line. A blocky start eventually leads to a headwall.

Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. Climb the bolted line about 1 m to the left (leftmost of the three bolted routes). Two rings for lower-off.

Starts with chossy, dusty big holds. Stay right for the middle section to keep it at the grade, or move left of the arrete to make it much easier. Bolted in 2012 or 2013 according to the Rakkup guide.

Bolted line directly to the left of #27 and "Done Before". Follow the line of the crack up to the overhang, the first bolt is directly above you, about 3 meters off the ground. Stay to the left for almost the entire climb, often using the arete. Most of the bolts will be a long reach. Mind your head among the cedars at the top when you're anchoring (two hangers with rappel rings).

A short second pitch for Cat's tail. Traverse out right, then up, through many an old piton. No anchors, and few possibilities for a natural one on top.

Alternate finish to Northern air. At the roof, traverse left using the horizontal crack and finish on the vegetated ledge above where the crack ends. It is possible to continue up and right to the Northern Air anchors.

Alternate finish to Reunion: exit the roof capping the notch to the left, and finish through the crack in the roof (as for Sister Morphine) at a set of fixed anchors below the lip.

A direct finish to Jay. stay right of the Camel ledge. Make some cool moves through the blank face between the bushes on the the right and the trees on the ledge (protection is questionable). Reach the roof, place some good gear and try to figure out how to exit (a foot or two to the right). No fixed anchor, but one can be built fairly easily by looping some cordo on the rocks at the top.

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

climb directly on the bolts and through the small roof for full value, avoid the easier ledges on the right. Careful of loose rock on the bottom. Lots of fiber by eating grass at the top.

Located on the main cliff a little ways left of the pinnacle are two bolt lines that start in a small cave. This climbs the left of the two bolt lines. After the first bolt stay left and use the monopocket for the 10a/10b experience. Otherwise move right to find good holds in the thin crack for an easier variation. Continue straight up past the third bolt, being sure to stay right of the dead tree, until the top.

Bolted. There are now sport anchors (rap rings) at the top.