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접속점
South-Western Ontario

The areas of Ontario generally surrounded by the three great lakes: Ontario, Erie, and Huron. The largest population centre is Toronto, and the megapolis that extends around the north-western to western shores of Lake Ontario.

Much of the climbing in the area is on the limestone of the Niagara escarpment.

Halton Region

These are the "Toronto" crags, being an approximately 40 minute drive from Toronto. The crags listed here are on Conservation Halton land (http://www.conservationhalton.on.ca/) and include both sport and trad routes. Top-roping is prohibited except at 'Rattlesnake Point', 'Buffalo Crag' and 'Bottle Glass' where top-anchors have been installed. As a result of heavy traffic due to the proximity to Toronto many of these routes are heavily polished and may climb much harder than their purported grade.

Halton Region
Rattlesnake Point

A popular trad and top-rope crag, also the only crag in the area which officially allows teaching and guided groups. Contains several new beginner sport routes as of 2019.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point
West Cliff

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff
Buckingham Area

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Buckingham Area
5.9 Sylvia's Crotch

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.9 Be A Mentor

Climb up to a large ledge to find the anchors for Find A Mentor. Continue up to second set of anchors past the roof.

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

5.5 Find A Mentor

Blocks up to a large ledge.

Or, continue up to second set of anchors past the roof (the end of Be A Mentor).

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

5.5 Two Summers Past

Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, continue traversing several meters left to find corner under a small roof. Climb this to the top.

5.8 Straight Up

Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, pull off a subtle move on decent crimps past two sketchy looking bolts to continue up onto a larger ledge and move back right underneath a roof. Pull the roof through the notch and continue to the top on easy climbing.

5.8 Orcstone

Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, pull off a subtle move on decent crimps past two sketchy looking bolts to continue up onto a larger ledge and move back right underneath a roof. Pull the roof on the right and continue to the top.

5.10b Wild Weed

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.11 Weedsworth

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.8 Rogue's Gallery

Start at number 2

5.10a B.S.

Bolted face climb with interesting moves and good rock. Originally a 5.9 trad. Start 3m right of number 2

5.8 Buckingham Palace

Start at No 3.

5.10 Buckingham Right

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.7 Hanging Tree

Start 3m right of number 3.

5.10b Bohemian Rhapsody

Starts 6m right of number 3.

5.6 Poor Tree

Starts at number 4.

5.5 Fallen Trees

Starts 5m right of number 4.

5.4 Hot Stuff

Starts at 4B and climbs up and diagonally to the right, crossing 'Jiminy Cricket' and 'Pinocchio'.

5.5 Jiminy Cricket

Starts at 4C.

5.9 Pinocchio

Start at number 4D. Rebolted as a sport route in 2019.

5.10a Lutz'z Route

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.6 Abendrot

Starts at number 5, although the number is no longer visible. Climb an obvious but extremely polished crack up to a left-facing corner.

5.6 Steve's Arete

Starts at number 6.

5.9 Two Pieces

Starts 4m right of number 6.

5.10a Two Pieces Direct

Starts from the ledge on 'Steve's Arete'

5.9 Showpiece

Start 4m right of number 6.

5.11 Son of Bogus

Start just left of number 7C.

5.7 Trepidation

Start at number 7C.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff
Plaque Area

This area is easily identified by the plaque commemorating the death of a climber. This area runs from the the inset area on the west end to the stream on the east and includes the classic route 'Finale'.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Plaque Area
5.4 Creepy Crawly

Start in the chimney behind 'Showpiece'.

5.10 Deadline

Start at number 8.

5.6 Army days

Start at number 8A

5.6 Raccoon Army

Right of the cave

5.11 Chalky's Arete

Climbs the arete at number 8B.

5.3 Chalky's Balance Climb

Start at number 8B and go up and right.

5.8 Chalk

Starts 3m right of number 8B.

5.6 Crack One

Start at number 8C, about a meter left of the plaque. Climb the crack to a large (and polished!) fin. Continue up to a large ledge and move right to finish.

5.7 Crack Two

Start at the plaque to the right of 8C. Climb the layback crack, moving slightly right just underneath a small overhang and continue up.

5.7 Crack Two and a Half

Face climb between 'Crack Two' and 'Crack Three'.

5.8 Crack Three

Start 3m right of the plaque and avoid 'Finale'.

5.4 Finale

Starts at number 9. Starts in a groove and climbs roughly straight up with good gear and holds. Polish at the beginning makes it feel harder than 5.4.

5.5 Final Finale

Starts at number 10. Climb up and over the small roof to a large ledge and traverse right to a comfortable belay. Continue up and right, ending up around the corner and above the roof of the neighboring routes. Finishes up past a cedar and a piton.

5.6 Birds Nest Soup

Start at number 10a.

5.6 Final Finale Direct

Starts 5m right of number 10a.

Climb up the finger crack (bring smaller nuts and cams) and eventually you will have to traverse left of the roof. Climb a little higher and you will find a rusty piton and a rusty bolt on a ledge. Belay from here to avoid rope drag. Traverse right from the belay and climb to the right of the cedar to finish.

5.11b Space Case

Starts below the belay ledge for 'Final Finale'.

5.8 Holy Cow

Start at number 11.

5.9 The Nose

Start a couple of meters right of 'Holy Cow'

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff
Stream Area

This is the area east of the stream. It starts at spring with 'Crepidation' and includes a number of two pitch routes which use a ledge or a large corner about 15m up.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Stream Area
5.10b Crepidation

Start at the spring.

5.11d Footloose

Starts 2m right of the spring.

5.10b The Mother

Starts 4m right of the spring.

5.9 The Father

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.10c Blessed Mary

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.11a Funky Fingers

Starts about 7m right of the spring.

5.11a S.O.B.

Same start as 'Funky Fingers', ends on the belay ledge for 'The Mother'.

5.11+ Bogus

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.10b Firefall

Starts just left of number 13, 'Holy Trinity'. Ends on the ledge.

5.10a Space Invaders

Starting from the belay ledge, climb up to the bolt on 'Funky Fingers'.

5.11 Peter's Variation

Starts from the right of the belay ledge.

5.6 Holy Trinity

Start at number 13 and climb up the corner until the roof, then move right to the large corner. Avoid the loosely attached large, dark-coloured rock to the left. Belay from there then climb the corner and follow the gully out.

5.7 Discovery (sport)

single pitch bolted sport version of Discovery. ~12m? (check)

5.7 Discovery

Start a number 13B.

5.4 Sinusitis

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.9 The Bulge

Starts from the large corner from 'Holy Trinity'.

5.0 Median

Referred to as "Medium" in David Smart's 1988 Edition of Ontario Limestone.

5.8 Maverick

Starts 2m right of Median

5.3 The 5.3 Right of Median

Starts 6m right of 'Median'. Ends on a ledge.

5.8 Loblwas

Start 2m right of 'The 5.3 Right of Median'.

5.0 The Walk

Starts 4m right of 'Loblaws'.

5.10 Fingerlickin'

Starts 1m left of 'Dilly Dally'.

5.3 Dilly Dally

Start at number 16.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff
Super Solenoid Area

This is the first clear area west of the 'The Pinnacle Area'. There is a large ledge half way up which is accessible from a scramble behind the pinnacle.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff Super Solenoid Area
5.10d Treed Lightly

Starts 2m left of "So Good". Climbs the face with the anchors over the big ledge. Continue past the anchors to climb a 5.10d.

5.10d Treed Lightly (Extension)

Continues past the anchors of 'Treed Lightly'.

5.10a So Good

Starts 2m left of "Be a Hoot..", starts up the obvious flakes and cracks to a ledge. Continue up along a right facing crack and small roof to great face climbing and a second ledge. Another short section of face climbing will bring you to the anchors.

5.10a Be a Hoot, Don't Noise Pollute

use 2 alpine draws to reduce drag!

5.6 Molson's

Start at number 17.

5.10a Export

Start at number 18. Climb the crack over the bulge to a small ledge. Follow the crack system to a small ledge below a slanting roof. Pull the roof and finish through the trees.

5.9 PD

The bolts left of Thank Mr. Goose.

5.8 Thank Mr. Goose

Left of the Fire Escape

5.3 The Fire Escape

Start at number 19.

  1. Climb the groove to a ledge then left and up to an open book.

  2. Continue up on the right of the open book to an overhang. Finish is through the trees above and to the right.

5.10a Out to Lunge

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.10+ Up Comes Lunch

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.10b Super Solenoid

Climbs the obvious crack on the right side of the ledge up to a piton. Follow the crack left and up.

5.10b Golden Showers

Starts the same as 'Super Solenoid'. Go straight up from the piton instead of following the crack.

5.7 The Overhang

Starts at number 19 or number 20.

5.10b The Overhang Indirect

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.10 Dave's Diversion

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

5.1 The Blocks

Start at number 21. Short blocky climb that ends at the gap between the pinnacle by the stairs and the main cliff. Walk off behind the pinnacle back to the base of the cliff.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff
The Pinnacle Area

The routes in this section end on the pinnacle or on the main wall just across from the pinnacle.

Halton Region Rattlesnake Point West Cliff The Pinnacle Area
5.7 The Pinnacle

Start at number 22A. Climb up and left, following the cracks in the middle of the pinnacle to the top.

5.6 Wet Dreams

Start at number 22A, just on the outside of the pinnacle. Climb up the face using the arete to the right as needed.

5.5 Dreams

Starts at number 22B, on the face on the inside of the pinnacle beside the stairs. Move up the face until about half way up, at which point traverse left onto the arrete at a large horizontal crack and continue up to the top of the pinnacle.

5.8 SN2

Start at number 22C. Climb the thin cracks up the middle of the inside of the pinnacle.

The following three routes are on the main cliff, opposite the pinnacle.

The following three routes are on the main cliff, opposite the pinnacle.

5.7 The Chemist's Return

Starts left of number 22D. Has a new bolt next to an old piton. Top out where you see the horizontal tree trunk.

-- marked as a 5.8 in the guide

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