루트들 캐나다에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

The broken juggy rib/groove. The easiest of the ‘Ninja Turtle’ slab problems.

Great place to practice your multi-pitch climbing techniques.

Follow the crack up a short crux to easier terrain. Ignore the first set of anchors to clip bolts above B3.

Significant amounts of scrambling on the ridge crest link 3 distinct sections of climbing. The first, a short chimney, goes at low 5th class. More scrambling leads around right of the crest to a short slab, which may either be climbed directly or via a corner to the left at 5.6 to regain the ridge. Finally, a short wall (4th class) blocks the way to the summit.

Descend via the scrambler's gully to the north - several sections may require some short downclimbing.

First from the left

P1 5.5 18m climb up through gully following bolts. P2 5.3 15m walk 20m to base of next pitch. Climb the left line of bolts easily to belay at tree ledge. P3 5.5 25m climb left line of bolts. P4 5.6 climb left line of bolts up exciting terrain.

Polished moves lead to a one-ring anchor. Above this is access to Heartline

First 6 pitches of the full Heart Line, and then a descent via Heart Slab, as detailed in Chas Yonge's route description.

Most pitches are low 5th grade. Much soloing and many variations possible.

Parking UTM 11U 0611200E 5658800N elevation 1700m Park at the upper Grassi Lakes/EEOR parking area beside Whitemans Pond, 6.2km west on Three Sisters Parkway, from the intersection with Three Sisters Drive.

Approach Walk back towards Canmore and follow the service road across the dam to its end. Head up 20m into the trees to the main trail. The Riders of Rohan mountain biking trail starts here. Follow the trail to the right 25m to the climbers trail. The best trail heads up and right staying mostly in the trees under Quick Release before traversing under the north face. There is a large cairn at the end of the face. The direct start begins here. For the normal route, continue across to a tree island and back up right to the base of the slab.

Base of Route UTM 11U 0612400E 5658200N Elevation 2100m

Recommended Rack C4 #.3 – 3, 8 Alpine Draws

Direct Start (5.7): See 'Northeast Face Direct'.

Regular Route (5.6)

• P1-2 100 m Climb 4th class slabs left of the left-facing corner system. Continue up and right to the edge of the buttress. You will pass three bolted stations at 25 m intervals. The final bolted station is at the edge of the buttress. This is where the Direct Start meets the Regular Route.
• P3 35m Climb the slab to a corner chimney. Exit right to a belay.
• P4 25m Step right around a buttress to a right facing corner. Follow this corner to a belay.
• P5 25m Climb a polished slab to a shallow chimney that leads to a belay ledge. (It is possible to combine P4 and P5, 50m.)
• P6 40m “Changing Corners” Climb up and right over a series of corners and pinnacles (4 bolts). Climb up slight right of the 4th bolt (possible protection). Traverse right past another bolt and up to the original station. Alternatively continue up right 5m to a belay on a broad ledge.
• P7-8 45m “The Roof” Climb up an angular corner trending left (2 bolts). Either pull the yellow roof on the left (preferred due to rope drag and protecting the second) or head back right to the black roof (loose block in roof crack). The belay is 5m above the yellow roof.
• P9 45m “Slab Traverse” Step up right (bolt). Traverse the slab and climb up to a rib. Climb around the rib to the right and up to a belay ledge.
• P10 45m “Great Dihedral” Follow the dihedral up 20m. Blocky ledges lead up left then traverse back to the corner. At 30m, follow another ledge left (bolt) to a polished groove and a belay ledge.
• P11 45m Traverse back to the corner. Climb up to a loose gully/ledge. Cross the gully and continue up a water runnel to a belay on a ledge.
• P12 35m Continue up the runnel to a ledge below the summit with a belay. Climb 5m up to the summit plateau.

Descend via the hikers' trail to the Goat Creek parking lot and walk back along the road to the parking.

Cool, easy climbing up a smooth arête. Route travels between the huge, left-facing boulder and the wall. Fun stemming and optional exposure. A cool climb for beginner climbers.

Roadside Left, fourth from left.

Roadside Right, tenth from left

The Ledge, seventh from left

Paddock Wall Right, thirteenth from left.

Paddock Wall Right, furthest left, where a single tree remains after the flooding in 2013.

Clim the arete directly.