루트들 Weir에서

Left-most climb in the section, starts above a cluster of birches, up a scramble at the left end of the cliff.

Past the first anchor is a short (2 bolt) extension up the headwall at 5.10d, to a 2nd anchor.

Crack that starts upwards then trends leftwards.

Glue-in bolts to the right of Pop Corn. The at-grade climbing is well-bolted, but the easier, though somewhat insecurem climbing above is quite run out (5m between bolts), so some small gear would be helpful.

Obvious wide (at the start) crack the heads up the face, leaning slightly left.

Climbs the face just to the right the wide crack, starting past 2 bolts.

Climb two closely-bolted overhangs to an intermediate anchor (stop here if you just want the steep stuff) or continue up the slabs (easier) to another anchor. Still lowers just fine on a 60m rope from the higher anchor.

Variant (left) finish for Cocu.

Jagged wide crack.

Farthest right route of the section.

Runs up the face left of an obvious arete, angling leftwards.

Left-most route of this section.

Next bolted route right of "Carnage d'Acier".

The thin crack - easier at the bottom, harder after the bolt at the top.

A sport-bolted direct finish to "The Cat".

Climb the steep, but juggy, crack system below the trees midway up the cliff, then after passing the trees, angle right to share the finish up the corner and anchors with "Lister".

Layback up the right-facing edges to a blocky crack system, then finish up the left-facing corner to the anchor shared with "The Cat".

Shares the start (first 3 bolts) with "Ace Rimmer", then traverse left to the roof. After pulling the roof, proceed to the thin finish.

Bolts are bit sparser than one might like.

Shares the first three bolts with "Kriten", then proceeds more directly upwards.

Nice route with 2 distinct crux. Get through the slight over hang with a second bolt, challenging to clip if you don't commit the move, to easier climbing and rest before getting to the anchor. The route is right of Roma. FQME setter and First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

Belle voie avec 2 crux distincts. Traverser le léger surplomb avec la deuxième plaquette, difficile à clipper si vous ne vous engagez pas dans le mouvement, suivi d'une grimpe plus facile et un repos avant d'arriver au relais. La voie est à droite de Roma. Ouvreur FQME et First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

At the far right of the sector, follow the obvious dihedral. One obvious glue-in at the start, and another shortly thereafter.

Gear, past the bolts, is generally good.

Fun easy 5 pitch trad climb.

1. The first move of the first pitch is by far the hardest. Climb the crack to the relay.

2. Easy traverse to a relay.

3. Slab with two bolts, go left of the tree for the relay.

4. Climb the crack at your right shoulder and stay between the trees on the left and the steep wall on the right.

5. Go over the relay towards the forest for a crack with blocks. 2-3 120 cm slings useful for protection on trees. Bolted relay, or go right for some bigger trees or relay on rocks. Go down by the trail by bush walking 100m towards the summit.

Cams #0.3 to #2 required, #0.1 to #5 useful. Works well with a full single rack and a few slings for trees.

Mixed climb.

Mixed climb.

Starts at the right side of the sector.

1. 5.6 40m. Climb the slab in the corner that angles rightwards. Some yellow-orange lichen, for which the climb is named, is still visible. Finish at the bolted anchor, or the nice ledge (build your own belay) a few meters up and right.

2. 5.5 35m. Climb up a few meters, then traverse right -- don't go as high as the bolted anchor. Ends at a bolted anchor below a chimney.

3. 5.7R 20m/35m. Pull the roof to the right on good holds, but well above your gear. Then up the chimney. Belay on the cedar (usually slings) at 20m, or continue another 15m up vegetated steps to belay in the trees. (More comfortable for the walk-off).

Descend by walking up, and either continuing up and left to the hiking trail and down that. Or breaking right, and descending the couloir (gully) between 10,000 Zulus and Adagio.

Continues upwards where "La Ligne Jaune" angles rightwards up the ramp.

Starts near the right end of the rising traverse of "La Ligne Jaune".

Left of the three routes up the gully.

Center of the three routes up the gully.

Right of the three routes up the gully.

About 50m up the gully left from "Adagio" there is a large right-facing corner with a widish crack at the back of it. Climb this.

1. 20m 5.6. Climb the crack past one ledge to a second gently-sloping meter-deep ledge and belay.

2. 20m 5.8. Continue up the corner passing an old piton on the face (climb face at piton or corner left of it) to a bit of easier ground and a 2nd piton. Finish right-wards up the chimney that narrows to offwidth. Belay at the paired cedar trees that usually have rappel tat on them. (Or finish up the unprotected but easy slab to the right.)

Rappel from the cedars -- a short (15m?) rappel angling slightly rightwards reaches the anchors at the top of a sport route on the arete. A 2nd 25m rappel reaches the ground.

This line has obviously been climbed, but does not get climbed frequently. The climbing, and gear, are good.

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (gelu_ionescu2003@yahoo.com)

Starts up the 2nd dihedral right of Biorythme look for an orange corner with cracks in the back of it below a triangular roof.

1. (5.7) Climb the dihedral and crack to the roof, then move right to a bolted anchor on a ledge. (Belay shared with "Adagio", and "Allegro".)

2. (5.10b) From the anchor, climb directly up, then left below roofs, then down a bit to make a belay on the route "Dragon".

3. (5.9) Climb the dihedral of "Dragon" until you can traverse left towards Biorythme, then follow a crack up and left to the top.

This is the first line climbed at at the cliff. Super exposed traverse moves while keeping the grade low. P2 and 3 are traverse pitches and it is advised to protect the route while thinking of your second.

(1. original - climb dirty ledges and cracks a few meters right of "Persistance",s first pitch (described above), until you can step left to the bolted anchor on the small ledge.)

1. 5.7 The usual choice, now (cleaner and more interesting climbing) is to climb the first pitch of "Persistance": climb the 2nd dihedral right of "Biorythme" to the cracks in the orange dihedral. At the big triangular roof, traverse out right to the belay ledge.

2. 5.6 Step around the ledge to a super aerial chimney move, then follow the crack for a few moves until you can make your way across to the right. Suggested belay on the large flake just before the vertical crack that goes to the roof. Keep a #3 if you can.

3. 5.6 The money shot pitch (unless you started on Persistance)! Climb the easy crack leading to the roof and traverse right with careful footwork. Bolted anchor after the traverse.

4. 5.9 Clip a piton and make your way up using the arete. There are about 4 moves of hardly protectable climbing leading to a hike to the anchor.

Descent: scramble up from the top of the cliff to the path, then hike leftwards and down a (class 3) gulley to the left of the wall.

Direct start for 'Bicentenaire' or 'Promenade sur Mars'.

Variant finish for 'Bicentenaire'.

One of the hardest trad routes in the Laurentians.

The obvious slightly right-leaning long crack that goes up the main face of the cliff from bottom to top.

First two pitches are bolted, third pitch is mixed.

A variation on 'Romania'.

Sport route just left of "Marie 4 poches".

First pitch is bolted, and often just that pitch is climbed as a sport route.

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (gelu_ionescu2003@yahoo.com)

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (gelu_ionescu2003@yahoo.com)

The route was pioneered by Bob Cartwright in the early 90s. At the time he made the first ascent at A3, he claimed the route could go free. "Fun with a Gun" had a few contenders over the years, but it took almost 30 years before someone redpoint it.

Start right of the anchor and climb a short left facing corner (0.1/0.2 BD X4) to a tricky mantle onto a good foot hold to reach the main seam. Place some gear and mantle to a shallow ledge underneath a blank section capped with a few overlaps. Place a bomber finger size cam plus a critical sideway nut a foot above it (#4 BD Stopper) and get ready for the first crux. This next section is a little scary and involves very technical climbing on unusual features. So, battle up this section to a very good hold and place a tiny wire plus a micro cam (0 BD Z4). Mantle onto that good hold to a good left gaston. Place crappy gear in the tiny flake above your head. There is also a good but blindly placed red ballnut in the seam to your right. Now its time for "THE HIGH STEP" which is kind of crux 1.5 and feels like your gonna slip. Do that move and then reach some thanks god gear placements (0.4-0.5 BD C4) and a good rest right underneath the main crux.

Place a good micro cam in the seam, clip the manky piton nest and go for it using compression moves, sloppy holds, a heel hook, a rose move and more sloppy holds to finally reach a jug. Reestablish yourself above the crux and place a good cam (0.75 BD C4). Compose yourself and climb an easier section until you reach "THE HEINOUS FINGERLOCK", then climb the roof to a no-hand rest at the horizontal with good gear. Take a few good breath and get ready for the headwall. Climb to the bolt and clip it, or not, then fire the pumpy upper section. There are a few available RP's but they are quite strenuous to place.

LOCATION The route follows a system of seem for its entire length. It starts on the spacious ledge to the right of the Marie 4 Poche/Cordonnier buttress. Start about 40 ft right of the Cordonnier corner.

Superb long (45 metres!) and technical route. A Quebec classic!

The route was wrongly named Le Temple Solaire in an old guidebook.

Club Sandwich climbs a series of ramps and ledges along the right-most section of the cliff.

Start at a small triangular cave (harder, but with protection) or a couple meters left on some moderate holds (easier, but poorly protected).

1. Climb up the corner with intermittent crack to the first large ledge, then step left to a double-bolt anchor.

2. Step back right along the ledge to the ramp with the wide corner along its left edge. Up this (large gear needed if not willing to run-out 8m+, C4 #4 not big enough) over and between a huge detached block and the main cliff to a second wide ledge with double-bolt anchor.

3. Walk right along the ledge, around the corner, do one move where the ledge gets thin, then continue walking right along the ledge behind a block, to a one bolt-anchor (back up with gear in dirty crack at base of ledge).

4. Continue right from anchor, and up the final wall where the ledge ends.

From the top anchor, due a single-rope rappel to the talus field, then descend the talus field, initially going skiers-left to avoid a small cliff band.

The climb is never more than a single-rope rappel above the ground, so can be escaped from at any point.

Climbs cracks to dihedrals, starting a little bit right (and up) from the start of "Club Sandwich". Look for the first line of bolts (though it is mixed) right of "Club Sandwich".

Starts part way along the long shelf traverse of "Club Sandwich".

Starts part way along the long shelf traverse of "Club Sandwich".

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (gelu_ionescu2003@yahoo.com) and Ghita Pop

An obvious short vertical off-width in the side cliff.

Can be top-roped off trees above by hiking up and around to the right -- bring long webbing.