Frankenjura Guide

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계절특성

16,221 routes in Region

백운석 석회암

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.247436, 11.408170

요약

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

접근 문제들

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

접근

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

숙박 장소

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

역사

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

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계절특성

13,966 routes in Area

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.590220, 11.481022

요약

The biggest sport climbing area in Germany.

설명

Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.

Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always well-protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.

접근 문제들

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

Zone 1: NO climbing
Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

접근

The Frankenjura covers a big area; it depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.

These are the important railway connections for this area:

R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
R4 to Amberg via Hersbruck, Etzelwang
S1 to Hartmannshof via Hersbruck
R21 Gräfenberg
R2/S1 to Bamberg voa Forchheim
R22 from Forchheim to Ebermannstadt

Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. The valley of the Pegnitz, for example, can be reached by using the R3.

Overview map

Some areas, however, are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the middle ages). Most people have a car to travel around.

숙박 장소

Camping

The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.

윤리문제

The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
Don't leave toilet paper.
Pick up rubbish.
No unnecessary noise.
No camp fire and bivvy.
Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
No publishing of boulder blocks.

역사

1905 the group "Rifflerbuben" climb the last tower ("Bolzenstein").
1960 Oskar Bühler invented the "Bühlerhaken" – father of glue-in bolts
1974 definition of "redpoint" by Kurt Albert † and friends
1991 "Action Directe" by Wolfgang Güllich † – first UIAA 11 route

Summary:

1,062 routes in Area

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 50.055844, 11.139386

설명

Ziegenfelder Alb und Staffelsteiner Alb

Summary:

8,647 routes in Area

석회암

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.828768, 11.309690

설명

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fr%C3%A4nkische_Schweiz

Summary:

3,731 routes in Area

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.589078, 11.565519

설명

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hersbrucker_Alb

Summary:

48 routes in Artificial

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.686931, 11.274440

설명

Kletter- und Boulderhallen

Summary:

388 routes in Area

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.386993, 11.777700

윤리문제

see Mittlere Fränkische Alb / Oberpfälzer Alb / Mittlerer Frankenjura for info.

Summary:

90 routes in Area

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 49.288730, 11.533206

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계절특성

2,254 routes in Crag

백운석 석회암

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 48.958760, 11.366309

Summary:

40 routes in Crag

오후 햇볕 5분보다 많이 어린이 친화적인 백운석 석회암

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 48.927472, 10.874131

요약

Der Klettersteinbruch ist ein Gemeinschaftsprojekt der Stadt Treuchtlingen, dem Landkreis Weißenburg-Gunzenhausen und den drei DAV-Sektionen Gunzenhausen, Weißenburg und Treuchtlingen. Er liegt an der Staatsstraße 2217 von Möhren in Richtung Rehlingen (ca. 250m nach der Eisenbahnbrücke links)

Erschlossen sind mittlerweile über 40 Routen in Schwierigkeitsgraden von 4 bis 10.

Die Benutzung geschieht auf eigene Gefahr!

Fragen zur Nutzung des Klettersteinbruchs durch die Aktiven des DAV-Weißenburg können an den Spartenleiter Michael Meyer oder den Jugendleiter Manuel Preiß gestellt werden.