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Sandlochwächter Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Campbell Gome Alma David M. Peter Colditz Volker Herbst Uwe Seiler Tobias Pissulla Feldsturm

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Sandlochwächter 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

계절특성

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 50.913244, 14.225458

접근 문제들

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Sächsische Schweiz으로부터 상속된

윤리문제

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
Sächsische Schweiz으로부터 상속된
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg III 전통등반
2 Brathähnchen VIIIa 전통등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Direkte Südwand VIIa 혼합 고전등반 1
4 Glücksklee VIIIa 혼합 고전등반 30m, 2
5 Hoffnungsschimmer VIIIa 혼합 고전등반 35m, 4
6 Hohe Liebe VIIb 전통등반
7 Kleeblatt VIIc 혼합 고전등반 35m, 3
8 Westwand Kurze Variante VIIc 혼합 고전등반 35m, 2
9 Westwand Lange Variante VIIc 전통등반
10 Mittagssonne VIIa 전통등반
11 Nordostweg III 전통등반
12 Nordpfeiler VIIIa 전통등반
13 Nordwestkante V 전통등반
14 Ordinate VIIa 혼합 고전등반 35m, 2
15 Plattige Wand VI 전통등반
16 Saugarme VIIIb 전통등반
17 Später Versuch VIIIa 혼합 고전등반 2
18 Südwand VI 전통등반 35m
19 Ü-Ei VI 전통등반
20 Nordpfeiler Variante VIIIa 전통등반
21 Verbindungsvariante IV 전통등반
22 Verlorene Liebe VIIIa 혼합 고전등반 35m, 3
23 Westwand VIIc 전통등반
24 Zentraler Überhang VIIb 혼합 고전등반 30m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
III Alter Weg 전통등반
Nordostweg 전통등반
IV Verbindungsvariante 전통등반
V Nordwestkante 전통등반
VI Plattige Wand 전통등반
Südwand 전통등반 35m
Ü-Ei 전통등반
VIIa Direkte Südwand 혼합 고전등반 1
Mittagssonne 전통등반
Ordinate 혼합 고전등반 35m, 2
VIIb Hohe Liebe 전통등반
Zentraler Überhang 혼합 고전등반 30m, 1
VIIc Kleeblatt 혼합 고전등반 35m, 3
Westwand 전통등반
Westwand Kurze Variante 혼합 고전등반 35m, 2
Westwand Lange Variante 전통등반
VIIIa Brathähnchen 전통등반
Glücksklee 혼합 고전등반 30m, 2
Hoffnungsschimmer 혼합 고전등반 35m, 4
Nordpfeiler 전통등반
Nordpfeiler Variante 전통등반
Später Versuch 혼합 고전등반 2
Verlorene Liebe 혼합 고전등반 35m, 3
VIIIb Saugarme 전통등반
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