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Wehlkopf Guide

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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

DDjensl David M.

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Wehlkopf 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

계절특성

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 50.962586, 14.073162

접근 문제들

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Sächsische Schweiz으로부터 상속된

하강시 주의점

Abseile 20+20m, 2. Abseilöse in der Hochscharte

윤리문제

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
Sächsische Schweiz으로부터 상속된
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

Wie "kleiner Wehlturm" "Alter Weg Südeinstieg" zur Hochscharte. Schlucht 7m hoch und links zu bewachsenem Absatz am Massiv. 2m absteigen und Band durch die Nordostwand zu engem Riss. Diesen zu Absatz. Geneigte wand zG.

FA: Alfred Keppler, R. Fritsch, A. Kunze, W. Hahn & M. Matthäus, 1907

III 전통등반
2 Nordkante V 전통등반
3 Nordkante Einstiegsvariante V 전통등반 30m
4 Nordostwand

with support VIIb

VIIIa 혼합 고전등반 2
5 Sand im Auge VIIb 혼합 고전등반 2
6 Sehtest

AF VIIIb

VIIIc 혼합 고전등반 3
7 Grauer Star

Rechts von Zahl 127 Wand (R) zu 2.R. Steilmulde zu 2.R "Direkte Südostwand". Diese zu deren 3.R. Linkshaltend zu 6.R "Felsenburgplaver". Dieses zG.

FA: 4 9월 2021

VIIIc 혼합 고전등반 35m, 5
8 Direkte Südostwand

AF VIIIa

VIIIb 혼합 고전등반 3
9 Südostwand VIIc 혼합 고전등반 1
10 Felsenburgpalaver

Links in der Talseite Wand und Rissspur (2R) zu Band. Kurzes Stűck den linksgeneigten Riss der "Südostwand", dann rechts Wand (4R) und "Talwand" zG.

FA: 9 8월 2021

VIIIc 혼합 고전등반 35m, 6
11 Talwand VIIa 전통등반
12 Sonnenfinsternis VIIc 혼합 고전등반 3
13 Südwestweg VI 전통등반

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
III Alter Weg 전통등반
V Nordkante 전통등반
Nordkante Einstiegsvariante 전통등반 30m
VI Südwestweg 전통등반
VIIa Talwand 전통등반
VIIb Sand im Auge 혼합 고전등반 2
VIIc Sonnenfinsternis 혼합 고전등반 3
Südostwand 혼합 고전등반 1
VIIIa Nordostwand 혼합 고전등반 2
VIIIb Direkte Südostwand 혼합 고전등반 3
VIIIc Felsenburgpalaver 혼합 고전등반 35m, 6
Grauer Star 혼합 고전등반 35m, 5
Sehtest 혼합 고전등반 3
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