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접속점들 Central Greece에서

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접속점
Central Greece

Officially central greece also includes Attica and Evia, but its probably better to leave these two as toplevel.

Aitoloakarnania

Aetolia-Acarnania (Greek: Αιτωλοακαρνανία, Aitoloakarnanía) is one of the regional units of Greece. It is part of the geographic region of Central Greece and the administrative region of West Greece. A combination of the historical regions of Aetolia and Acarnania, it is the country's largest regional unit. Its capital is Missolonghi for historical reasons, with its biggest city and economic centre at Agrinio. The area is now connected with the Peloponnese peninsula via the Rio-Antirio Bridge. The surrounding regional units take in Arta in Epirus, a narrow length bordering Karditsa of Thessaly, Evrytania to the northeast, and Phocis to the east.

Varasova - Kryoneri

In May 2022, a large maintenance project of the climbing routes of Varasova was started by the municipality of Nafpaktos. During the maintenance work it was found that the old permanent anchors of the field are very likely to not withstand the fall of a climber or even the simple hanging of a climber on them. It is therefore strongly recommended to avoid using all old anchorages. The rootes that have been maintained have new, glued titanium anchors.

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Rubicon Sector

Attention: Until April 2023 this sector has not yet been rebolted.

A massive cliff face with some exceptional adventure routes as long as 18 pitches and 600m high.

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Rubicon Sector
8 ΦΩΤΕΙΝΟ ΜΟΝΟΠΑΤΙ/SENDERO LUMINOSO

A multi pitch divided in two segments. The 1st 8 pitches are 250m and after a 10' walk the upper part is consisted of 9 pitches of 350m total. Second part is easier and more atmospheric.

7a Luminous Path
6+ Notios Anemos

The last three pitches are easy but require some route finding since they don't have any permanent bolts besides the permanent anchors.

8+ A0 The Travel of Argonauts

A fully-bolted sport multi-pitch on the massive face of Varasova before the Africana sector. From R8 to R9 35 minutes walking

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Africana Sector

Steep slabs, sport and mixed. Morning climbing is best, when the cliffs are still in the shade.

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Africana Sector
7 Dalton
6 Afrikana
7+ Kentauros
8 Chistoforos Agnoglou
7- Ellinomania

A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt.

6 Molon Lave

Typical Varsova climbing. 3rd pitch follows a crack-dihedral and provides sustained grade VI-, VI climbing.

8+ Mykonos
5+ Bow
5b Semeli
5c Erato

equipper: Aris Theodoropoulos

6- Danae
6a Andromeda

Alternates between crack/slab climbing with a sustained final bulge.

7 Fanatic
7- Mavro provato
6- Gonia
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Kolofotia sector
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Kolofotia sector
6 Kolofotia

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/Kolofotia

Located in between Africana and batman sector. Approach from Africana but stay at the bottom of the wall, find destroyed metal bridge and traverse to start of the route.

1 to be deleted
7+ Gatoulis

As the first pitch one can also do the first pitch of kolofotia

6 Kalos sxinosyntrofos

Great first pitch. The route has permanent anchors on all pitches besides the first one but requires some route finding.

6+ Thalia

Great 2nd and 3rd pitches

7- Kentri

Requires some gear but has many bolts.

6a Zina
6a+ Salome
7a Safe Sex
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Batman Sector
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Batman Sector
6b Alexandra
Zina
6a+ Salome
7a SafeSex

Anchor of the first pitch can be used to top rope Herod

6a+ Herod

A very popular trad-style corner.

7b+ apoleia stirixis
7a Boogieman
6c+ A Muerte
7b+ Simphonia
7a+ Chreos
7c Koufari
7c Is it the Sun or is it the Moon?
7c Kounoupi
7a Petalouda

There are two more trad pitches (6c+, 4b)

8a Tha Itheles
6c+ Batman

4 bolts at the start, for the last part you need Cams or Nuts.

7c Batman Direct (BD)
8a+ Houfterman
7a Sfika
7a Pegasus
8 Butterfly
9+ Carcass
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Garden of heroes

sport climbing field

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Garden of heroes
5c theo angelopoulos
6a sugar man
5c kipos ton iroon
6a+ demaratus
6a noise terror
6a+ dyo magi
6b+ meyer
6c+ tipota
5a big trip
4c spinalonga
5b monty python
4a periptero
5a maccabi
4c sweet glyka

Need 80m robe

5a eftazimo

Need 80m rope

5b koumbaros
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Pirgos Sector
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Pirgos Sector
6c+ Druna
6b Chrisopigi
6a+ Voskopoula

Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos'

6a Antio Hari
5c Pyrgos
6c+ Rock 'n' Roll
6a+ Skala

Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos'

7- Remali
7b+ Skorpios
6c Heavy Metal
6b Valto Heri sou ke Piase
7+ A0 Geraki
6b O Xin Agilin
6a+ Bailey
5c Calydonis Direct
6+ Mikrula
Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri
Phyco Sector

5'

Aitoloakarnania Varasova - Kryoneri Phyco Sector
6b Apalousa
7b Sultana
7c+ Valeriana
6c+ Alikto
8a+/b Lost Highway
7b+ Arachne
7a Skia
6b Natassa

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