등정들 Trentino-Alto Adige에서

FFA.

#FFA

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUj0kSuj_dK

Adam Ondra's instagram

Such a cool route from Stefano Ghisolfi! Fell from the very top once because the good heel hook broke but luckily found some new (bit harder but not grade changing) beta and send the next go. Took me two 2 day trips to Arco, first one with horrible conditions though. Might come back for the Lonely Mountain which is basically the same route with four different moves and also just as hard in my opinion, let's see. I like to come to Arco so why not

FFA.

1st repetition, Kletterblock.de reported

Description of the ascent by Adam Ondra on 8a.nu: "amazing line, one of the best in the grade. Great vision by David for bolting and lot of work by Gabri to clean and send it. I found a kneebar just before the crux that makes the route a bit easier, but still 9a+ for sure. The way that Gabri it did is pretty hard for 9a+ for sure! I tried it some years ago when it was still a project and totally dirty, this year I was really close to sending first day, but in the end I had to wait for another day with fresh skin and power when I did it on my first real go of the day."

really good one for a limestone Boulder. 3 burly moves on small foot holds. get your tension game on

Project Beginning is no more a project, the beginning of a new "normality" already started and climbing this route is the best way for me to begin dreaming again. Too hard to be just 9a, but too easy to be 9a+, the new route in Eremo di San Paolo is "Beginning"! Read more on Instagram #FA

Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure.

2 tries yesterday evening and 3 more today. Super short and super cool! Loved that pinches! Thanks Gabri for the vision! Everybody knows it’s hard to grade this kind of “routes”. I think the whole could be 8B boulder. Therefore Imho it coulde be 8c+. Climbing a 9a so fast is a goal of mine but will stay as such for now!

Climbed in 9 tries.

#2ndgo maybe 8c+/9a with kneepad

2nd Go, 8c+ is more appropriate than 9a in my opinion

#2nd go

#FA Yess! So happy to have climbed this amazing piece of rock. The route definitely fits my style perfectly. Really short and really bouldery Nevertheless it all felt super hard and I had a lot of luck to keep the moves together up to the top. About the grade: I have never tried anything before what was nearly as hard as this project, but to be honest I haven't even tried anything really hard before. So I can not compare this route to other routes. Moreover I have zero experience in grading routes. All in all I just can say that I had to give everything to climb this project. I hope that someone is going to repeat this Saustall testpiece quite soon. Regardless the grade, I just had super fun trying this amazing project and to finally stick it at the end. Thanks to Helli for bolting this line and letting me try it. So syked!!!

2nd Go after checking it out once 2 weeks ago. Hard to grade since it‘s just a really long climb with many rests and no crazy crux. Could be 8c+ I think or at least 8c+/9a 🤔

Checked it out a cuple of weeks ago and send it 2nd go today, somehow felt much stronger even in the sun. Psyched!

#2go

Regarding the grade, 8c+/9a is the better also in comparisson to the other routes at the crag and in Arco.

8A+/8B. quite the journey to climb this one. started brushing and playing around on it many years ago. tried different betas until I finally decided to stick to one but then it still took me quite some time (including many dryfires on the last moves). Well, it`s over now. Definitely a line to climb in Algund!