접속점 |
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Valle Antigorio |
Oira |
Oira |
6c Placche di Oira - La storia infinita |
Veglio |
Pontemaglio |
Pontemaglio |
6c A0 ★★★ I guardiani del'Ossola |
Cadarese
Splitter granite cracks found in a beautiful mountain valley. Both bolted and clean climbs are in equal proportion. |
Cadarese |
Lower
The lower area comprises the first few cliffs you encounter as you walk up the path. Some easier trad lines are followed by a mixed sector accessed by a fixed rope. |
Cadarese Lower |
9a
Tribe
Grade is not confirmed! Dedicated to Peter Mair. As described by Jacopo Larcher: So, basically, there is a first section which is kind of vertical—way easier than the rest of the route, it’s probably 5.12- or something like that. But it’s quite precarious. It doesn’t take a lot of gear; only two pieces in the first 15 meters, one nut and one cam. These pieces are good, it’s just that the first one is quite high up. So this first part isn’t super hard, but just technical climbing where it’s easy to make a mistake that would be bad. Then you reach a no-hands rest below a roof, where the first crux is. You get some really good gear in a crack there, and from there on the route is quite safe. The first crux is after this roof and is’ compression climbing with a dynamic move to reach a slopey crack. The fall there is safe— if you don’t stick the last hard move, you fall with the rope behind your leg, but it’s still ok—I took this fall a few times. Next, in the slopey horizontal crack you place the last two pieces before the upper crux. At this point you are on the left of the arete and then you climb to the right to a small rest. Then there is the last hard boulder problem. You get this really bad right hand pinch, and you bring your foot super high onto this slopey foot hold. And from there you have to get this kind of two-finger pinch slot, before finally bumping to a good hold. After that you place a ball nut and then you just have one weird move to get to a ledge— another hands rest, you can lay down. Above that there is still a 10-meter 5.12 crack to the top, which is all normal crack climbing with good gear. At first I wanted to make the route end at the ledge, because a different line finished on that crack and there were bolts on the crack. But the guy who had opened that climb chopped the bolts so that I could finish my line to the top. |
7b
Scorpion
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7c
Beta block super
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
★★ Lo smidollato
Name written at bottom. Starting under a small roof, traverse right to start the route proper. Follow this up and a bit left on the obvious line of bolts and finish direct through small ledges. |
6a+
★ Lo smidollato Trad
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b+
★ Cannibal
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
★★★ Hannibal
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
★★★ Sangue e magnesite
The obvious hand sized corner crack. A beautiful line, after which you finish up to the left. A delicate move above the final ledge guards the end, be careful here. |
6c
★★ Big Jim
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7c
E chi la castiga
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b+
★ Green rat
the finger crack in the centre of the wall. |
7a
Mariposa
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
Mariposa variation
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
★ Barulussa
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Gli spalloni
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b+
Occhi di Giada
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
5b
★ Corner Glove
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
5b
★★ Purosangue
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
★★ No Name
Slabby finger crack left from the chimney/crack |
5c
★★★ No Name II
Crack/chimney |
6a
★★ No Name III
Crack with a lot of jams |
6a+
★★★ No Name IV
Crack with laybacks. Starts with „No Name III“, then go right |
5b
★★ Indiana Jones
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
★★★ Besentanz
Follow the ledge of the sector until the very end to access the route. It's a long access to the 7a but it's an incredible line really worth a go! Take a standard (double) rack Cam #0.1-#2 with focus on the small cams and a few small nuts.
|
Cadarese |
Central
A group of searing crack lines defines the central area. |
Cadarese Central |
7a
Rockwald
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
★ Lustra Rock
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
★★ Nuova Scommessa
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
Sandrix
Squeezed in between Nuova Scommessa and Classica. |
6b
★★★ Classica
The difficulties at the initial rooflet can be solved a few ways... typically the more comfortable you are with getting in the crack/chimney, the easier it will go! |
7a+
★★★ Edera
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b+
★★★ c'era una volta
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
8a
★★ Grazie Ricky
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7c+
★★ Beslan memorial
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
Subsonica
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
Arrivano I Loacker
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c+
★★★ Crack a gogo
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Cadarese |
Upper
The upper sector has another mix of great trad and sport cracks to explore. |
Cadarese Upper |
Upper Alcove
Past the main Upper sector is an alcove containing a small collection of routes. |
7b+
Orazio Furioso
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a+
★★ Megera Crack
Start up the corner before gaining the hand crack on the right wall, then climb the blocky section above. Worth the walk, even though there is a little questionable rock, and it can be dirty due to runoff. Take cams up to #4. |
6c
Muschio Selvaggio
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Main Wall Upper Tier
This sector has a red rope to help with the exposed traverse along its base. |
6c
Attenti al Buco
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
★ Attenti al Buco Trad
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
Imbuto Crack
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
★★★ Imbuto Crack Trad
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b
★★ Fessura Fallica
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
★★ Fessura Fallica Trad
first pitch |
7a+
Sdulferando
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a+
★★★ Sdulferando Trad
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b+
★★★ Foglie Cadenti
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
8a
★★★ The Doors
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
Senza Nome
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7c
Falce e martello
L1 7c 25m; L2 7b 15m |
6a
???
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
4a
Chimney
no protection |
Main Wall Lower Tier |
6c+
★★ Perturbata
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a+
Corta ma facile
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a+
Corta ma cattiva
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b
★ Corta ma carina
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a+
Soft Grit
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c+
Porcini a gogo
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Terra di mezzo
Routes scattered on the approach up the hill towards the Upper Sector main wall. |
6a+
★★ Black Dihedral
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7b
??
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
★ Monster Spatz
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a+
Gold Spatz
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b+
★★ Petit Prince
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6b
Spazzocamino
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
8a
Changing Corners
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Cadarese |
Crack Party
Crack party is a trad only area, accessed by ropes up from the right of the central area. |
Cadarese Crack Party |
Lower Tier |
5c
★★ Quereinsteiger
From "21°" follow the ledge to the left until the end to a bolt. The big crack in the corner can be protected with Cam #5 |
6c
★★ 21°
The right leaning finger crack on the slabby wall (it's leaning forward 21°) just before the staircase leading to "Lo sceriffo di cada". Follow the finger crack until the end and than change into the well protected dihedral. |
6c+
★★ Lo sceriffo di Cada
The path ascends via some steps cut into stone, then a staircase. 'Lo sceriffo di Cada' starts at the top of these stairs. |
?
left of 'Mission Gin Lemon' |
6b+
★★★ Mission Gin Lemon
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a+
★★ Non Parlo Inglese
right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - right leaning crack and same face finish as 'Senza Nome' |
5c
★ Senza Nome
right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - dihedral and face |
5c
★★ Scarpadetennis
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
8a
★★★ Mustang
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
★★★ Un pomeriggio da leoni
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
★ Facile me larga
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6a
★★ Facile me larga
You need two Cams size 6 for the last part |
7b+
★★★ Django
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
5b
★★ Ciao
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
Upper Tier |
6c
★★ L`amours toujours
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
7a
Signorina Fettembourg
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |
6c
Mirabelle
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb. |