★★★ Mountain Smile 5.10a

(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook).

Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.

1. Corner to a small roof, then wander left across cracked face, heading for a big tree. This tree often has slings for the rap descent, but better spots to anchor further back on ledge.

2. The obvious chimney above, protection in cracks and some chockstones. Slightly tricky offwidth exit to gain a large ledge.

3. The money pitch. Overhanging crack for a few metres (tree is probably in, it's trad), then the angle decreases but a variety of crack sizes await in the long corner above. Endurance required.

4. Go up right corner/slab for 5m, horizontally right for a few metres then downclimb, to reestablish an anchor.

5. Final short offwidth to the top.

Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left.

The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it.

Gear: double rack + #4 and #5.

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0