루트들 일본에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

A short route on the slabby face. 3 bolts and lower off from the in-situ tat on the tree at the top of the route. Stay alive by checking the condition of the tat before lowering off!! Hi is a deprecated word for Hinoki (檜) - Japanese cypress.

A decent romp up the left side of the slabby face. Avoid the left arête for a more fulfilling experience.

Name translates as "Tami-chan is high"

Climb the arete to the right of 'Dead End' Japanese Grade - 7級

Japanese Grade 7級

The shortest climb on the boulder

6級

Japanese Grade: 6Kyuu (6級)

6級 Sit start on jug and mantle

Name translates as "#18 Gully"

One of the classic Japanese alpine routes. Loose rock, not much pro, lots of old rusty pitons, bad anchors. Top out with 200+m siun climbing then hike down, or rap 4-6 pitches down depending on anchor condition.

Another loose classic at Tanigawa. Starts from the top of Tail Ridge. If you with to top out, a final 150M of III simul climbing up grass / rock/ trees until the top of the "Bird`s Hat", rap 25 down to the south ridge top anchors then final 200+m scramble to the summit.

Other options are to rap down either the Central Arete or the South Ridge.

Juggy.

The name of the climb translates to "Don't Cheat".

Climb start a few metres right of Washing.

Another good easy lead, fun slab/face climbing, a bit thought provoking in places. Good intro to andesite.

Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.

Good introduction to slabby face climbing on Joyama andesite. This is slabby face climbing, with many small solution pockets, few of them positive, so reasonably delicate climbing with footwork being important.

Start of LHS of South Wall. Follow the line of bolts directly up, the well protected crux is near the top. Note the route sequence is from the topo in the guide book

Basket Worm

Japanese Grade: 8Kyuu (8級）

Japanese Grade: 8Kyuu (8級) Name translates as: Left Arete

The name Translates as "Forest bathing"

anyway traverse it

The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

Pleasant slab climbing, the cleanest of the new bunch. Start directly below two big pockets, one above the other. Climb the scruffy lower slab past a poor peg to a flake and follow this to a lovely jug at a long horizontal ledge/break. Pull up to the pockets and continue pleasantly to finish direct up the easier angled top slab. You can also start by traversing the break right from the white flake.

NewGam 4's twin. Pull onto the slab right of NewGam 4 (left of a ring bolt) and then climb direct past the break to a lower off. 60m rope required.

The flake crack round to the left of Cassandra and just right of a grotty corner. Rack up, ditch the tinies and go heavy on the bigs.

Follow the slightly slanting handcrack all the way to a tree on the left. Holds on the left keep the climbing pleasant rather than thrutchy.

Ab off.

The crack to the right is a crumbly 5.10a with an appalling anchor.

Very good! Start at a dike where the slab takes a step up.

Climb the dike and slab easily to the first bolt. Move left using a thin break, stand up in it and go right to a left-leaning corner. Stretch right out of this to a good finger edge and use this to gain a jug further right. Cut loose, heave up and then climb easily to a terrace and single bolt in someone's shrubbery. Belay on the best tree you can find or step right to the lower-off of Ultra Seven. A 5.11a variation takes you direct from bolt one to bolt two.

The one-bolt wonder in the centre of the slab.

Follow the obvious line to the terrace - there are good holds where it matters.

The slabby rib right of Phoenix, gained from the left. A decent route.

Swing out right from Phoenix to a steep pull onto the slab. Follow this just right of the edge to a lower-off.

The centre of the slab right of the groove. The best of the new bunch - unfortunately only the first bolt has its hanger.

Start at a short crack under a bulge. Climb the crack, then pull out right at a shrub. Swing out left immediately (well, you can hang about a bit if you want) using a good flake, then follow the slab to a lower-off on a small ledge on the right.

First climbed in 1981 by Tomikazu Shinohara and Naoyuku Watanabe who are key figures in Ogawayama's climbing history. They established a route that is not only the most popular multi-pitch in Ogawayama, but also one of the most beloved in all of Japan. This is the perfect route for new multi-pitch climbers and one that every rock climber should try.

• Pitch 1, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 2, 5.8, 30m
• Pitch 3, 5.6, 25m
• Pitch 4, 5.8, 25m
• Pitch 5, 5.6, 10m
• Pitch 6, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 7, 5.8, 20m

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

1. Face

2. Face-Slab

3. OW

4. Face-III

*NP

Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

Various waterfallls and routes ranging from 5m to 30m. Many can be linked together and top out at Iou Dake 硫黄岳

About 5 falls ranging from 5-40m.

From the top there is access to other ice rotes, Dai Doshin　大同心 or Ko Doushin　小同心 apine / rock routes.

Popular ice climb cragging area.

All along the Watch Tower

F1.5～3.5

Translates as "Antelope Route" Cam sizes F1～4

ガリ子ちゃん

Starts halfway up the wall... climb something else (maybe around "C Gully") to gain access.

20m rap off the "Match Box" after Pitch 5.

Starts halfway up the cliff. Climb something else to gain access.

extension/additional pitch after beginner crack

Japanese takes the German word 'kante' for 'arête'. This problem climbs the right hand arête of the boulder.

The right hand side of the arête. A step up in difficulty from Beginners Arête