접속점들 La Popa에서

La popa es una pared de unos 500 metros de altura, y 3 kilómetros de largo, con cara norte y sur. Hay 2 multi-largos y mucho potencial de otras, pero lo característico es su potencial para boulder.

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

De la formación rocosa rojiza, el primer boulder obvio que se ve a la derecha. En la cara sur de la piedra (por donde llegas), empiezas parado.

*Probablemente podría tener sit-start pero le subiría mucho el grado porque no se encuentran pies.

En el lado opuesto de "La bienvenida".

Unos 100 metros al noroeste de la piedra de la Bienvenida, es una roca grande que tiene buena sombra buena parte del día. Por la arista oeste sit start con la mano izquierda en un slot y la mano derecha en una pinza, sube siguiendo la grieta y la arista.

*Potencial de varios highball a la derecha de este problema.

Unos 50 metros al sur de la piedra del acuerdo, un boulder solitario que tiene una pequeño desplomito de un lado, y un slab facilote del otro. Comienza sit start en el desplome con las 2 manos en el agarre roto, y de ahi pa'rriba.

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

Rappel El Gavilan

Double Ropes

Doubles to #3

Nuts

Wildly steep climbing on tufas, cracks and pockets, the wall overhangs continuously from pitch 3 to the top!

Full shade after 10:30am

p1 10a, 6 bolts Easy face to a ledge. Walk left to the anchor.

p2 11c, 12 bolts Stem, jam and face climb a corner to a ledge. Walk left to an anchor.

p3 "Three Streaks" 12d, 13 bolts Step off the ledge and immediately enter a burly crux through a roof. Wander up a thin slab across a streaked wall, then pull three more distinct cruxes through the face above.

p4 12c, 9 bolts Climb a shallow corner to a left-rising traverse. Tricky face climbing takes you to the base of a tufa

p5 13b, 8 bolts Do some totally normal rock climbing up an obscenely overhanging tufa. Get a good rest before launching right through the steep pumpy crux!

p6 "Two Hundred Bats" 11b, 3 bolts Time to put those Yosemite skills to the test.

p7 12c, 12 bolts Layback up the corner and navigate around an overhang. A difficult move leads to another crack out left. Climb this, then traverse rightward beneath a large pillar.

p8 "Christina Nagualera" 12d, 11 bolts An easy crack flares out into a reachy crux. Traverse leftward on pockets and tufa pinches. Don't blow it right at the end...

p9 13a, 12 bolts Follow the corner and roof system to a hard move below the roof. Save some gas for the outrageously steep jugs above!

p10 12b, 12 bolts Cut right to the arete, then follow this to the cumbre! Keep an eye out for an optional midway anchor out left.

Pitch 1 (12a): Worst pitch of the route. Vertical crimping on thin glued flakes.

Pitch 2 (12d): Bouldery crux off the anchor into fun tufa climbing to a reachy finish.

Pitch 3 (13a): Incredible, long and sustained pitch following a slightly overhanging shallow arching corner. Stem and crimp up the corner and clip the chains before the pump sends you flying!

Pitch 4 (12b): Short and punchy up steep tufas into easier corner climbing above.

Pitch 5 (12a): A change of pace. Vertical crimps up a smooth face. Fun movement. The line of rusty bolts going straight up was a dead-end during the ground up FA.

Pitch 6 (12c): The first roof. Tufa hug and knee bar your way to a cryptic crux at the lip.

Pitch 7 (12d): The second roof and redpoint crux. Stem up the beautiful long corner at about 12a into a wildly exposed boulder problem through the roof. So good!

Pitch 8 (12b): Originally punched straight up off the anchor at 12d, but now starts up the easy ramp and then continues up the beautiful grey limestone, through the unexpected hueco bucket jugs! Pull a little crux at the overlap and traverse over to the anchor.

Pitch 9 (11c): The original finish quested off to the left (old rusty bolts remain). The new direct finish goes straight up following the obvious fun finger crack. Romp the easy slab to the summit!

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

Como el Agua is far easier and shorter than its neighbors to the south. However, because it was established as a fully solo effort, I have to admit that the grades could either be even softer (because rope soloing is awkward) or sandbagged (because I wired the moves).

The climbing is characterized by vertical and just over vertical face crimping with only a few critical pockets here and there. From the dirt to the rim, the rock is remarkably good save for a bit of meh climbing between the top of pitch 2 and the start of pitch 3. The crux pitches go into the shade around noon.

There may be sections where it appears there is easier climbing outside of the bolt line. However, they lead to dead ends and the route is indeed the path of least resistance up the best rock on the wall.

P1 5.10c, 70ft, 6 bolts Begin on grey rock just left of a big yellow splotch. Jugs lead to a pretty quick crux and great, but short lived techy climbing. Belay out right on a big ledge.

P2 5.9, 100ft, 8 bolts Sacrificial junk pitch. Most routes on La Popa seem to have them. Luckily this one is easy with decent rock. Follow up a left facing corner to a mini roof. Exit right out the roof and cruise the slab to another comfy ledge.

P3 5.11c, 100ft, 11 bolts This one starts out a little awkward/dirty, but gets better and better with every move until you look down and realize you just climbed almost 30m of awesome 5.10 with a 5.11 crux just under the stance belay.

P4 5.12b, 100ft, 10 bolts

Mostly this pitch trends left. The route's crux is a techy left traverse that's easy to slip off. There are some pumpy moves after, but lots of decent rests. A big undercling is the finale to this great pitch.

P5 5.12a, 110ft, 12 bolts This pitch may be soft. I think the crux is mid way up through techy, textureless compressions. Consider extending a bolt or two as you enter the yellow rock. A very pumpy finish may ruin your onsight if you're not careful. Belay on a big ledge in the sky.

P6 5.10a, 70ft, 3bolts Climb out right from the anchor following mostly jugs on the best rock. May appear runout, but if you've made it this far, the bolts are just where you want them.