등정들 Meztitla에서

¡Vía encadenada!

¡Casi vuelo en el crux de la vía! ¡Vía encadenada!

Ruta corta, el grado y los movimientos son en las primeras 3 placas, después es suave.

Por lo que sé la ruta se llama "Pato Pollo".

FFA. long time project (2 years!!!)...my history with this route started removing a huge wasp-nest at the crux leaving with many stitches. Later on I already started working well the route, however one day again some new wasps attacked me and I did't return for 1,5 year...finally in August 2019 I returned because the new wasp-nest had gone, this time we even fixed some crucial holds with sika and I started trying hard, with the F.A. after 9 sessions and 17 tries A MUEEERTE within a month..my hardest!

new, funny route...nice warm-up

FFA. my long-time-project, about 25-30 metres of super-sustained, pumpy climbing through a slighty overhanging shark-fin: 8 sessions over 4 months and 15 tries in total!!! in the end it was a mental fight doing that cross-move already high up right next to the chains, 9 falls just at this move!!! first 4 bolts are funny and good for warm-up, then 4 bolts of powerful, long moves, then the crux with some small crimps and a sloper which leads you to a big, big jug: 5 minutes of active rest there (long time to think and get nervous!!!). leaving the rest follows 3 bolts with a nice sequences using a flake, a undercling, a pocket and some crimps to get to the last bad rest at the "pico". then the crux sequence: bad crimp with right, reachy move to bad shoulder-crimp with left, clip, good side-crimp with right, feet up high and a long, powerful move to the "cazuela", clip and the the "horror-move", a cross to a good pintch which seems just sooo far away!!! finally sticking that move, I just kept it together for the last 3 long moves to the incut-crimp and the 2 last jugs (not clipping the last bolt) and suddenly I was able to clip the chains https://vimeo.com/195529525?ref=fb-share&1