Montenegro Guide

Summary:

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계절특성

스포츠 클라이밍, 고전등반 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: 42.715567, 19.249058

Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.517595, 19.349064

설명

Podgorica is a capital city of Montenegro, with around one hundred fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the central part of the country, at the crossroads of several significant travel routes leading from the seaside to the continental part of the country. It has a good geographical position, between the coastal and mountainous belt. It has the sub-Mediterranean climate which is characterized by warm and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. It represents a good starting point for climbing activities in the crags in its surroundings, in the Morača Canyon, the Mrtvica Canyon, the Cijevna Canyon, the crag above Fundina, Ostroške grede, Kučke Mountains... .

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접근

Podgorica as a centre of the state is well-connected (in terms of transportation) with all towns in the Republic, bigger towns of the neighbourhing countries, and with European centres. International Airport Golubovci is located 12 kms away from the city, while the airport in Tivat is about 75 kms away. The Belgrade - Bar railway line runs through Podgorica: for more information on train timetable dial:+38281633663. For further information on bus lines dial: +38281620430. Best information on domestic and international flights can be found on the website of the Montenegrin airline: www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu

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숙박 장소

There is a large number of hotels in the city, the list of which along with addresses and other information can be found on the website of the municipality of Podgorica www.podgorica.cg.yu. As there are no developed campgrounds in Podgorica and we know that outdoor sports enthusiasts are not the clients of the four and five star hotels, we can recommend the cheapest hotel in Podgorica, in the Smokovac suburb www.hotelizvor.cg.yu. We hope that things regarding the campsites in Podgorica will change soon.

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Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.492746, 19.310033

요약

Smokovac offers best opportunities for climbing shorter sport as well as the longer routes with a height of up to 120m, both for its attractiveness and good quality, and for fast and easy approach.

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설명

The rocks are of the limestone type, grey and yellowish in colour. Climbing season begins as early as at the end of the winter (February, March) and lasts till the late autumn (November, December), although one can climb throughout the year too, except on the coldest winter days and the hottest summer days. During the approach in the summer months one should pay attention to snakes. Potentials for climbing and equipping the routes are not nearly enough exploited. There are several sectors (blocks).

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접근 문제들

Important: crags in the area of Smokovac are located on private property, so we kindly ask climbers to behave politely and respect private property. Also, the rocks are open for further equipping but if you want to drill something at Smokovac it would be best to contact local climbers-the OCP.

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접근

Smokovac suburb is situated at the exit from the Morača Canyon, and it is around 5 kms away from the centre of Podgorica. It can be reached along the main road Podgorica-Kolašin. Check a big petrol station just right after a bridge.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.443655, 19.377611

설명

The south rock face of Ilijin vrh (Ilija's Peak) is situated eastwards from Podgorica. The rock is about 12 kms away, it is located at an elevation of about 650 masl, above the Rašovići village (Fundina) and it is easily visible from the city. The crag has the width of about 300 m, in its highest section it has a height of about 100 m and due to its southern orientation, it represents an ideal crag area during the autumn, winter and early spring. The crag is of a solid quality. It has two ascended routes.

Approach and descent A road to this crag leads through Masline, the neighbourhood of Podgorica, past the Novito supermarket, further on through the Doljane village towards the Medun village; after 8 kms from the city, one should turn right by the information board for turning towards the Fundina village and Zatrijebač village, then continue along the road for about 1km further on, where one should turn left onto a narrow asphalt road towards the Rašovići village, furher on straight along the road to the houses, about 3kms, and when you reach the village and the road becomes steep, turn left and go on to the end of asphalt road. From the last houses in the village one should continue walking towards the crag over the large stone blocks. A 15-20 minute hike to below the rock. The descent from the top of the rock is possible along the ridge in the direction of the north-west.

Accommodation In the village, below the rock there are several places suitable for camping, so we recommend you to ask local people for permission for overnight camping. There is a spring of drinkable water in the village.

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설명

Morača canyon covers the south-eastern part of the central region of Montenegro. The rocks of this canyon provide great opportunities for climbing first ascents, on both short equipped routes and long routes up to 600 m. The end of the canyon in the area of the Smokovac village, near Podgorica, offers more opportunities for climbing end equipping sport routes or longer routes up to 120 m, unlike the central part of the canyon, called Platije, in which the length of the potential routes reach even 600m. We don't have the data that there are ascended routes in Platije. In the highest section of the canyon there are no bridges over the river, therefore future climbers intending to climb on the left side might encounter the problem of crossing the river. The orientation of the crags in the canyon is different, most usually towards the east and the west, but there are also those which face south and north -west, therefore it is possible to climb there throughout the year.

How to Get There

The main travel route connecting the north and the south of Montenegro runs along the Morača Canyon. You can reach the canyon from the direction of Podgorica or Kolašin, and if you are, say, somewhere in the north-western area of Montenegro, you can also reach the canyon from the direction of Šavnik along the regional road through Semolj. In terms of transportation, Podgorica is well-connected with all capital cities of the neighbouring countries by various means of transport: buses, trains, planes.

Accommodation

Podgorica as a capital city doesn't really offer a wide selection of accommodation facilities suitable for climbers, unless you are a lover of the four and five star hotels. At the very exit from the canyon, in the suburb Smokovac, 5 kms away from Podgorica, in the immediate surroundings of the crags with the equipped routes, there is Izvor Hotel, the cheapest hotel in Podgorica(tried and tested!). Unfortunately, there are no campsites in Podgorica nor in the canyon.

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Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.405889, 19.414989

설명

Cijevna Canyon is situated in the south-eastern area of Montenegro, eastwards from Podgorica. The depth of the canyon drops off as it goes towards the west to end in the Dinoša village, where the river turns into the plain river. The canyon is the deepest in the borderline area with Albania, where on certain spots on the right bank it is probably over 1200m deep. The depth then continues growing further on in Albania. The crags in the canyon are of the limestone type, a typical Dinarides karst. At the entrance to the canyon and in its first western section the rocks are lower, with the height of up to some 30 metres. The height of the rocks grows as one enters further into the canyon towards the east. Those are the highest in the borderline area, where the depth of the canyon is the greatest. Those have various heights, up to over 100m. One of such crags is Sokolova stijena(Falcon Rock) in the Zatrijebač village, with the width of about 300m and the height of 150m. You can reach above the crag by car. The approach can't be better and easier - 10 minutes downhill! There are no data that someone has climbed in the Cijevna Canyon.

How to Get There

You can reach it from Podgorica via the Konik neighbourhood and the Dinoša village. It is around 15kms away from the town. It takes about 20 to 25 minutes to reach it by car. Approach to Sokolova stijena is different, one doesn't have to go along the canyon, but past the Fundina village go further to the already mentioned Zatrijebač village, 25 kms away from Podgorica.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

설명

In place Bioco, about 15 km from Podgorica to Kolasin is one of the few rocks on the left side of the canyon Morače that is easily accessible. Height is about 120 mi no ascended routes. South is oriented so that it is suitable for climbing in the winter. In place Bioco turn right over the bridge that leads to the Moraca river to the left and Verus, immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the gravel road and continue 2.3 km to the rock. From there, another 20 minutes uphill to the base of the cliff.

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설명

(Piperska Rock) is situated 18 kms far from Podgorica in the direction of Kolašin. It has a height of around 100 m, the width of around 300m, and it is oriented eastwards and south-eastwards. There are no ascended routes. The approach takes about 30 minutes from the road.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.604374, 19.373425

설명

About 25 kms away from Podgorica towards Kolašin, in the Dromira village, on left side above the road there are several buttresses - ridges with an average height of about 200 metres. Among the buttresses there are several walls of a lesser height. The rock is of a solid quality and the harder line you choose, the rock is of the better quality and cleaner. The approach is easy, no more than 20 minutes from the road to below the rock.

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Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.488627, 19.309115

요약

Small sector near "Autocamp Titograd", just beside the Moraca.

설명

Routes mostly start very steep.

접근 문제들

When the water of the Moraca is high, the route on the right are not reachable.

접근

1 min

숙박 장소

Autocamp Titograd

역사

Bolted in October 2019 on our Montenegro-Trip. Greetings from Salzburg!

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.597043, 19.546478

설명

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.581000, 19.563084

설명

Pasjak Peak is a marked peak rising at the eastern end of the valley, virtually in the very centre of the circle formed by Torač Peak, Veliki Toljevac Peak, Štitan Peak, Surdup Peak and Velji Vrh Peak. It is 2025m high and it has two obvious ridges -the north-west ridge and the south ridge as well as the three noticeable rock faces - the north face, the east face and the south-west face. Crags have an average height of 200m and a relatively good quality, although, as in all large limestone crags, loose datails are not a rarity at all.

Via normale approach (as well as the descent ) leads along the south ridge. Marked mountain trail leads from the very lake to the summit of Pasjak zigzaging through the narrow valley between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak, then avoiding Pasjak Peak from the east in order to reach the ridge plateau, where it forks. The northern fork leads along the ridge to Pasjak, while the southern fork turns toward the col between Štitan Peak and Surdup Peak. It takes about 1.30 hrs to get from the lake to this fork. The crags themselves and the north-west ridge of Pasjak Peak are a serious rock climbing challenge. Their average height doesn't go over 200m, but the lengths of the routes leading along them are always over this figure, since those routes also imply a lot of hiking along the broken highland terrain with plenty of crevices and ravines, and that is particularly noticeable in the north rock face and the north-west ridge. Those, actually, consist of three sections: the lower barrier, with the height of 30-70m, stretching along the whole length of the north rock face, then a large ledge, charactarized by all above-mentioned features, and the crest which is the most attractive section of the peak itself. Within it there are several prominent details - the north-west ridge, large scree leading from the ledge to below the very summit, and the central head, which is with the above-mentioned scree separated from the north-west ridge, while from the eastern section of the rock it is divided by a long, prominent chimney.

Climbing in the crags of Pasjak should be taken very seriously. On 2 August 2002, Vesna Drakulić and Bojana Tekić, members of the AOB(Alpine Section of Belgrade), lost their lives exactly while climbing one of the routes in the north-west ridge. The memorial plaque situated on the ledge where they were seen for the last time, is not just a memento to the friends who are not among us any more, but also a warning to all those people whose attention and carefullness sometimes weakens in a searh for an adventure

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.576609, 19.550607

설명

Surdup Peak is the highest peak in the region. It has an elevation of 2184masl and a prominent north rock face with the height of about 200m, made of horizontal layers climbing stair-like towards the summit. The crag is of a solid quality. The peak can be reached along the marked mountain trail from Bukumirsko Lake. The north rock face of Surdup Peak is divided in two sections - the eastern and the western, which are separated by a wide ridge of Velji Vrh leaning against Surdup Peak. All descents lead down the south-eastern slope towards the saddle between Surdup Peak and Štitan Peak, and further on down the scree towards Pasjak Peak. In the winter, when snow partially „level" the terrain, it is easier to descend to the lake through the pass between Pasjak Peak and Velji Vrh, while in the summer, it is more advisable to opt for a classic marked trail, which is fairly longer, but also much more pleasant for walk.

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.572752, 19.559108

설명

Štitan Peak itself has an altitude of 2147masl. It belongs to a group of the highest peaks of the Žijevo mountain range and is one of the peaks with the most stunning view on this mountain. It is caracterized by a large north rock face with an obvious grassed ledge which divides two dominant short rocky verticals, and a large amphitheatre which is open to the west. Crags doesn't go above the height of 200m; those are mostly of a good quality (especially in two above-mentioned short rocky verticals) although there are also loose sections in the grassed and dropped gullies. A marked mountain trail leads to the summit, and as for other mountain approaches these are identical to those which are described in the section on Surdup Peak. From the described trail to Surdup Peak, this trail forks on the saddle between those two peaks and it is the most ideal descent to the valley of Bukumirsko Lake.

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.591006, 19.574756

설명

This is the last peak in the Đebeza - Torač ridge. It has an elevation of 1900masl. It is caracterized by two prominent rock faces, the south and the west. The west face is higher and rather loose, while the southern one is about 100m high, very compact and offers perhaps the best climbing in the surroundings. The best approach to the summit is along the mountain trail leading from Bukumirsko Lake along the slope of Torač and approaching the summit from the north-western side. The trail goes past the permanent spring.

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설명

Velji vrh starts or closes (depending on the side from where it is looked at) the circle around Pasjak Peak. Its main ridge, spreading in the direction north-south, leans against the rock face of Surdup Peak, dividing it in eastern and western section. It is characterized by the imposing east rock face, rising up from the dale between Pasjak Peak and Velji vrh, then a wide barrier which turns into the ridge and rims the peak from north, as well as the west face which, intersected with ravines and ramps is its most approachable climbing area, too. The peak is 2020m high, and the height of its crags varies. The highest is the east one, which in its highest section has the height of 200m. The north rock face is pretty loose, it is about 150m high, and it leads directly to the top ridge which is so narrow that one should "ride" at least further two rope lengths in order to reach the flatter ground. The north-west face is between 100 and 150m in height, the crag is of a relatively good quality, except on the ridge and in the ravines where there is a lot of deposits. Mountain ascent leads from Bukumirsko Lake, avoiding the peak from the west in a wide circle, so the final section of ascent is performed over a hard crevice-covered terrain between the west part of Surdup Peak and the slopes of Velji Vrh peak. There is no marked trail. Descent from the peak down the direct valley implies at least two abseils, so it is not recommended for less experienced and unequipped climbing parties.

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Summary:

스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 고전등반

Lat / Long: 43.130255, 19.073069

설명

Mt Durmitor is one of the most interesting massifs in Montenegro. It belongs to the system of the Dinarides and is situated in the north-western area of Montenegro. The west face of Mt Durmitor is bounded by the Piva River Canyon, the northern and north-eastern part by the Tara River Canyon, the southern part by the Komarnica River Canyon, while to the east over the vast Jezerska visoravan (Lake Plateau) Mt Durmitor continues to the Mt Sinjajevina. On this mountain there are around 50 peaks with the elevation over 2000 meters above sea level, 18 glacial lakes, many glacial cirques, mountain passes, and a large number of rocks with a height of even up to 700 m. All this is concentrated in the small area which makes it one of the most attractive massifs in our country. Peaks and rocks of Mt Durmitor provide extraordinary conditions for rock and alpine climbing, both in summer and winter conditions. The climate of the Durmitor massif is very harsh, typically alpine. Summers are short and cool, while winters are long with heavy snowfalls. The largest settlement at the foot of Mt Durmitor is Žabljak. It is the centre of mountain tourism in Montenegro. The development of mountaineering and rock climbing on Mt Durmitor has a humble history, after all, as in all mountain areas in Montenegro. Mt Durmitor areas have relatively late discovered their beauties to the broader circle of mountain lovers. The more serious alpine ascents and traditional climbs were registered as late as in the 30s of the last century and were performed by alpinists from Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia... After the war alpinists have visited Mt Durmitor more intensively. At that time the mountaineering and rock climbing camps (at which certain rocks were systematically covered) were mostly organised. In the 50s Mt Durmitor was visited by alpinists from Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Poland. It was also a period in which the largest number of first ascents in the rocks of Mt Durmitor was performed. The crags are all limestone, but there are so many of them that it is really not hard to find the one which suits us with its solidness, difficulty and aesthetic. So far about some hundred routes have been climbed - some rock routes and some snow and mixed routes, but being scattered in various guidesbooks, clubs and organisations, data on those are pretty unavailable. For the largest number of routes in Mt Durmitoru which were climbed 40, 50 or more years ago, we have used the book „The Rocks of Yugoslavia" by the author Zlatko Smerke as a source. Routes in the rocks of Mt Durmitor peaks have been rarely repeated, so for the largest number of routes we have not been able to obtain additional information which would serve for comparison with the old route descriptions and the future climbers should bear this in mind.

How to Get There

If you're coming to Durmitor by car from the direction of the south, from the Adriatic coast main road over Podgorica (capital city), you can choose between two travel routes. One forks from Podgorica towards Nikšić, further on over Šavnik to Žabljak. The other travel route follows the major main road in the continental region which connects the north and the south. It runs from Podgorica toward Kolašin to Mojkovac, and from here it continues along the Tara River Canyon to Žabljak. Both travel routes in the winter months might be impassable due to the heavy snowfalls. If you are coming to Montenegro by plane, two international airports are available - in Podgorica, about 170 kms and Tivat about 250 kms far from Žabljak. Bus ticket from Podgorica to Žabljak costs about 7 to 8 euros and there are 2 to 3 departures a day.

Accommodation

In the Žabljak itself there are several hotels, motels and pensions as well as a large number of private houses offering lodging services. More regarding this you can find on the website of the local tourist organisation. Here we are going to highlight the accommodation facilities in the very mountain. In the area of Mt Durmitor there are two mountain huts, one bivouac, and one mountain shelter. Mountain hut near the Škrčka Lakes is situated at an altitude of 1723 masl. It has about 30 beds in shared rooms, a kitchen, and a dining room. It is open from mid-June to the end of September. The hut is the ownership of the Durmitor National Park. There is a possibility of pitching tents in the surroundings of the hut by paying an overnight camping fee, because the campground is located in the territory of the national park. Mountain hut in Sušica is open in the summer months. Pitching tents is possible there. On the official website of the Durmitor National Park we couldn't find data concerning the number of available beds in the hut in Sušica and regarding the lodging fees in these two mountain huts. Alpine bivouac is situated in the western part of Velika Karlica at an altitude of 2020 masl. It was built in 1973 by the Belgrade mountaineers and rock climbers. It can provide accommodation for 6 to 8 people. It is open all year round. There is no spring nearby. It has an exceptional location for performing ascents in the rocks of Savin Kuk Peak and Šljeme Peak. Approach starts from Black Lake (Crno jezero)- approximately 2.5 hour hike. Mountain shelter in Lokvice, at an elevation of about 1800 masl, is frequently visited mountain facility in Mt Durmitor, especially due to its location, because it is situated in the direction of the mountain trails starting from Žabljak. It can accommodate 6 to 8 people. The shelter is in a poor condition. It can be reached from Black Lake for about 1.5 hour of hiking. It is open throughout the year. There is a possibility of pitching tents nearby. At Lokvice, there is a small spring of drinkable water which is, however, covered with thick snow during the winter months so don't count on it too much.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 43.062910, 19.050057

설명

Boljske Grede belongs to the southernmost part of Mt Durmitor massif and is the largest rock on this mountain. Boljske Grede Peak is rather long mountain ridge starting from the vast Dobri do and continuing to the south, gradually losing its height. The northern areas of the ridge are the highest. The highest point, the Bolj Peak, at an altitude of 2066 masl is situated here. At the point where Dobri do is the lowest and where the valley of the Komarnica River starts, an imposing craggy barrier starts towering above the Komarnica River all the way to its end. The valley of the Komarnica River is the southernmost valley of Mt Durmitor massif situated near the small town of Šavnik. The rock faces are 500 to 700 metres high and those stretch in the length of almost 3.5 kms! Best time for climbing is from late spring to early autumn (September/October). In recent years, the rocks of Boljske Grede Peak have attracted two groups of foreign climbers from Southern Tyrol (Italy) and Carnizia (Austria) who have climbed two first ascents. The rock is of a solid quality and offers immense potentials for climbing first ascents.

Valley of the Komarnica River provides additional opportunities for outdoor activities. In the valley, there is a large number of smaller and larger boulders, therefore in the moments of break you can go bouldering as well. At the beginning of the valley of the Komarnica River there is a famous Nevidio Canyon, one of the rather small, but surely, one among the most beautiful canyons in terms of beauty and enjoyment it offers. With the adequate equipment the canyon can be passed along in few hours. Do not enter it without the diving suits and be careful, because once you enter it there is no way back.

How to Get There.

The River Komarnica Valley is about 110 kms far from Podgorica, over Nikšić to Šavnik. From this small town, further few kilometers towards Žabljak, where after few kilometers one should turn to the Komarnica village. Along the valley, through the village, several kilometers further to the end of the gravel road. From there, through the forest along the path for about 1.5 hrs to Poljana below the highest section of the rock. Camping is possible in the valley.

Accommodation.

Bring your tents along. If you want a complete isolation, then the place for you is a large meadow below the highest section of the rock. If you want to socialise a little with the local people, you can also pitch your tents by the last house in the valley, at a very pleasant family - the Đurđić, who have already hosted foreign climbers. Near the house of the Đurđić family, there is a spring with drinkable water.

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Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.118490, 19.042002

설명

Zupci Peak is a very interestingly shaped ridge consisting of 14 towers with the height ranging from 50 to 150 m. It is situated almost in the heart of Mt Durmitor massif, surrounded by Bandijerna Peak and Minin Bogaz Peak. The usual approach to these peaks is from the southern side over the Sedlo(Saddle) pass. A two hour hike. In 1954 the first traversing of the whole ridge of 14 towers was performed with difficulty grades ranging from I to VI and the route length of 1,100m. In 2005 Zupci Peak was also visited by alpinists from Trieste Paolo Pezzolato and his wife Sara Gojak, who climbed and equipped the first ascent Sokol iz magle(Falcon From the Fog),100 m, 6a+.

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Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.098715, 19.006541

설명

Lojanik Peak (2091m) along with Boljske grede makes the southernmost section of Mt Durmitor massif. Due to its remoteness it is rarely visited. Excellent rock of Lojanik Peak was ascended in 2005 by the Italian alpinists Paola Pezzolato and Sara Gojak who eqipped four long routes in the white limestone. The nearest approach (45 min) is from Dobri do(Good Dale), fhich can be reached along the road running from Žabljak over the Sedlo pass, around 15km. Comment: during july 2009, Vanja and Kaleza, from OCP,repeated two routes in Lojanik. Routes "Durmitorsko ogledalo" and "Bunar želja" are ovegraded.The first one is not more than III and 170m, not 310 mlike in the topos, "Bunar želja" is not more than IV.

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설명

Šljeme Peak is a group of peaks particularly significant for alpine/rock climbing reasons, because these peaks have a prominent north rock face. The group of Šljeme Peak towards the north forms a long rocky barrier going down to the valley of Velika Karlica and Mala Karlica. The highest point is Zapadni vrh (the West Peak) with an elevation of 2477 masl. The approach to the crags is from Velika Karlica, which can be reached along the marked trail starting from Black Lake, which turns leftwards by the restaurant. The north rock face - east section continues to the rock face of Savin Kuk Peak. The crag has the height of about 300 m. From right to left it is intersected with the diagonal cracks. Two obvious vertical gullies run along the centre of the rock face. The base of the crag is covered by large screes, the sign that the rock is loose. The north rock face - central section is the highest part of the north rock face of Šljeme Peak, which dominates the whole valley of Velika Karlica, with the height of about 400m, and width of about 1800 m. The rock is characterized by vertical lines, as well as the three obvious chimneys or gullies. The upper half of the rock is very exposed. There are some twenty ascended routes. The best known routes are Direktni(The Direct Route), 400 m, VI, and Bebijev(Bebi's Route),300 m, IV,V, but nobody has entered there for many years, mostly due to the poor quality of rock. The north rock face - west section is the extension of the central rock over the diagonal crack streatching from right to left. The rock ends in the obvious karst sinkhole which divides the north rock face from the east rock face of Pleća. Along the karst sinkhole runs one of the classics of winter climbing in Mt Durmitor - Žljeb Šljeme Pleća Route, 300 m, 70 degrees, M2-3. The east rock face of Pleća and Zapadni vrh (the West Peak) has the rock face with the height of about 300m. It is vertical and cut with the wider gullies. The approach to the crag is from the alpine bivouac-30 minutes.

Osojne grede Šljemena, which are situated above the ski trail of Savin Kuk Peak, has become interesting in recent years for climbing in the winter months because of a quick approach, short and attractive climbing. The most prominent routes are Pantin Žljeb(Panta's Gully) 100m, 60 degrees, Načelnički(The Chief's Route), 80 m, 70 degrees, Direktor(The Director), 200m, M2-3, 60 degrees. All of these start just above the trail and end on the bare face of Šljeme.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 43.122788, 19.062155

설명

Terzin Bogaz Peak is a very attractive peak whose rock face dominates the Lokvice valley. The peak itself doesn't tower above the surrounding peaks but it made up for this disadvantage with the beauty of rocky formations, smooth slabs, and pinnacles. The crest section of this peak is a craggy ridge which continues to the south, over the Mala Previja saddle, to Pleća in Šljeme, while to the east over the Velika Previja saddle it continues to Međed Peak. The north-east rock face has the shape of the trapezoid. It rises rightwards from the marked trail Lokvice-Velika Previja. The crag has a height of up to 300 m. The north-west rock face is 200m in height. There are some ten ascended routes in the rocks of Terzin Bogaz Peak. The crags are loose. The approch is from Lokvice- half an hour. Lokvice Valley can be reached along the marked trail starting from the shores of Black Lake - about 1hr30min

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설명

Savin Kuk Peak is one of the easily approachable peaks. It is easily noticeable from the shores of Black Lake, from where its north rock face is visible as well. At the same time it is the first peak in the range spreading to the south-west and then to the west. The rocks lower down to Velika Karlica. Those have a height up to 300m and are rather loose. The north rock face towers above Velika Karlica, at its very beginning. It is easily accessible along the trail from Black Lake. The left section of the rock is somewhat lower, the right one is higher, around 300 m. There are some 30 ascended routes on these rock faces.

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Bobotov Kuk Peak is the highest peak of the Mt Durmitor massif. It is situated in the central part of the main ridge which stretches in the direction southeast- northwest. All its faces are craggy. All crags are characterized by looseness. To the north-west Bobotov Kuk Peak continues to Bezimeni vrh (Nameless Peak) over the rocky ridge. The approach to the peak is possible from several directions. The most popular approaches are from Žabljak via Black Lake. The shortest approach is over Lokvice and Valoviti do, about 5 hrs. From the south-west side an easy approach is the one from Dobri do over Lučina previja, about 4 hrs. West and north-west rock face Škrcka Lakes and these are the largest rocks of Bobotov Kuk Peak. The north-west section is about 300m in height. The west rock face is about 500 m high. The bases of the crag are covered with large screes, sign of the poor quality of the rock. The approach to the crag is from the valley of Škrcka Lakes. The east rock face towers above Valoviti do, with its height of around 200m.Then it gradually lowers down and joins the ridge connecting Bobotov Kuk Peak and Bezimeni vrh.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 43.139489, 19.047891

설명

It is one of the easily visible peaks, even from the trail from Žabljak towards Black Lake. It is also famous for the fact that at the foot of this peak one of the symbols of Mt Durmitor - Ledena pećina(Ice Cave) is located. It has a very compact and solid north rock face, with the height of about 250 m, which offers safe and nice climbing. The crag can be reached along the marked trail from Black Lake towards Ledena pećina. A 2-3 hour hike.

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The rock face of Crvena Greda Peak is already visible from Žabljak and from the access trail to Black Lake. The rocky south and south-east rock face, reddish - yellow in colour, dominates the valley of Mlinski potok (The Watermill Brook). Crvena Greda Peak is situated north-west of Black Lake. The south-east rock face is situated within the long laid rock which doesn't have obvious peaks. It is 300 to 500 m in height and it is loose. The north-east face has a cut, steep and pyramidal shape of the rock and the height up to 300 m. The south-west face of the crag, on the side facing Donja Ališnica, is the highest, about 500 m. Along its centre the rock is cut with a very noticeable vertical crack-chimney. Approach to the crag is from the valley of Mlinski potok along which the marked mountain trail Black Lake-Donja and Gornja Ališnica-Planinica runs. At Zminje Lake, which is 7 kms away from Žabljak, one should turn from this trail, and from here, continue further 40 minutes to below the crag.

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Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 43.163705, 19.234365

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 43.113796, 19.053896

Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.761711, 19.622176

설명

Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.

How to get there

You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.686686, 19.668516

설명

Kom Vasojević possesses extremely long western wall and a narrow northern rock. At the point where they merge, the rock is the highest and reaches a height of about 500 meters Seen from the direction Medjukomlja western rock makes long barrier fractured rocks from left to right are increasingly reduced, and end at the Pass Customs. The right part of this barrier makes a distinct rock groups of elongated and rounded towers called Bavan.Stijene some parts of which reach a height of about 200 m, are mutually shared with several narrow and steep talus. The rocks are loose. Access is from the bottom Medjukomlja, over the long scree.

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Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.835952, 19.564189

설명

The youngest climbing area in Montenegro was equipped in Kolašin at the end of May 2008 with the assistance of the office of the Austrian-Montenegrin Partnership from Kolašin that are the main donors of this project as well. Work on the crag was realized by five guys from Austria and six people from the OCP who equipped a new climbing area with 31 route in two sectors. The heights of the routes vary from 10 to 30 meters. In the first sector there are 10 routes. It's worth mentioning that the hardest route in the climbing area named 'Disco p....' 30m, IX,IX+ as well as the most beautiful out of the easiest routes named Pop stone IV+ are located in the first sector. In the second sector, or „scorpion wall" 21 route was equipped. In the first sector, for the route No.1, use of a 70m rope is mandatory, for others, the one of 50 m is more than enough. In the second sector for routes Nos. 23,25,26 and 29 we also recommend the use of a 70 m rope. Beautiful surroundings, lots of forests around the climbing area, a spring below the first sector, various routes... what are you waiting for? Best time for climbing is from spring (April) to autumn(October).

How to Get There

Kolašin is about 70 km away from Podgorica, towards the north. It is situated on the Adriatic main road which connects the south and the north of Montenegro and goes further on towards Serbia. Also the Belgrade-Bar railway line runs through the town, therefore it can be said that Kolašin is well-connected in terms of transportation, unless there are traffic jams on the main road caused by frequent roadworks. If you are coming from the direction of Pogorica by the bridge over the Tara River, you should turn right and enter the town and then further on follow the signposts leading to the Jezerine Ski Centre. 3 kms from the town, after the last houses on the left side there is a wooden bridge over the mountain stream; from here continue further along the trail, past the spring of cold and drinkable water, 1 minute to the first sector. At the end of first sector the trail leading to the second sector starts -around 4-5 minute walk.

Accommodation

Finding accommodation doesn't pose a problem in Kolašin. The town is in the tourist expansion and there are lots of investment in the various accommodation facilities, therefore you can choose among several hotels and a large number of private houses and apartments. All depends on your affinities and the amount of money you can spend. There are also several restaurants, for those better off we can recommend Savardak and Brile(a cook speaks several foreign languages), but we prefer stopping off at Planinar, Kod Džoa.... More on tourist offer of Kolašin you can see on the website of the local tourist organisation.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.537995, 18.583255

설명

Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.577833, 18.582712

설명

The ridge of Reovačka greda with its highest peak Pazua, along with the Subra Amphitheatre is considered to be the most striking part of the massif, and apart from that the wildest one as well. On Reovačka greda the south face, especially the section below Pazua, its main peak, is the one which is interesting in terms of trad climbing. The rock is of an excellent quality, white limestone with the height ranging from 200 to 350 metres. There is only one ascended route so far- 350 m, V-/IV/III. It was climbed by Bojan and Vanja from the OCP in May 2009.

How to get there, approach and descent.

Reovačka greda as one of the rather remote areas of Mt Orjen massif, inaccessible and far away from the usual mountain trails, is a rarely visited mountain. The best and easiest approach to this crag is from the direction of Crkvice, and it takes a 90 minute hike to get from there to the base of the rock following the markations. Crkvice is about 120kms far from Podgorica and it can be reached along the travel route Podgorica - Nikšic - Vilusi - Grahovo - Dragalj - Crkvice or from Risan ( Boka Kotorska ) towards Grahovo; from that road one should turn to Crkvice. By the remains of the old Austrian bakery in Crkvice one should turn right onto the macadam road, then along it some 5 to 6 kilometres to the clearly marked fork for Reovački dolovi. From Dolovi a marked trail leads to the exit to the ridge. The best descent after climbing is along this trail.

Important: There is only one spring in the whole area - Studenac and it is situated at the foot of the southern couloir. The trail leading from the dales to the ridge runs past it. To reach it you'll need a 40 minute hike over a difficult terrain. Mountaineers from Herceg Novi, who know this mountain much better than us, claim that the spring has never dried up although it doesn't provide plenty of water.

Where to sleep

Bring your tents along. You can sleep in Reovački dolovi where there is no water, but there is comfort, or below the southern couloir, where there is a little or none of the space for tents, but there is water...and vipers! The choice is yours.

Climbing season

The rocks of Reovacka greda are oriented southwards, so the best time for climbing is in spring(the end of April, May) and in autumn(September, October)

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.524091, 18.539518

설명

Mt Subra is the most imposing crag of the Mt Orjen massif, and it can be said, of the whole massif of the Dinarides along the Adriatic coast. It rises in the shape of a giant amphitheatre in which the layers of limestone are stacked one atop another. Along the vertical the layers are intersected with a series of gullies and chimneys. The crag is up to 300m high. The lines in Mt Subra were climbed only as late as in 2005 by the Slovenian alpinists headed by Mr Stanko Mihev, and this way we want to thank him very much for providing us with the information on routes.

How to Get There:

Subra Amphitheatre can be reached most easily along the marked mountain trail from Vrbanj, which can be approached along the travel route from Herceg Novi(Meljine ) through Kruševice - about 15 kms. From Vrbanj the trail follows the macadam road (suitable for terrain vehicles) over Rujište and Meki do to Žukovica. From Žukovica to the base of the rock - about 40-minute hike .

Where to Sleep:

The best place for making camp is in Žukovica, both because of the water found nearby and the terrain configuration. Due to a stony terrain there are no conditions for pitching the tents at the base of the rock.

Climbing Season:

Unlike the rocks of Reovačka Greda the largest crags in the Subra Amphitheatre have a north-western orientation which enables climbing during the summer months, too.

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.487793, 18.586397

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.569061, 18.544020

설명

Mrtvica canyon is located in the central part of Montenegro. The river is a tributary of the Morača River and it flows into it at the villlage of Međuriječje which is also the starting point if this little-known canyon is our aim. Geografically, the Mrtvica Canyon belongs to the slopes of the Mt Maganik. The length of the most interesting part of the canyon in terms of rock climbing is about 8 kms. From both sides of the canyon, the rocks with the height of 600-700 m rise up, and those are, along with the Morača Canyon, the greatest traditional climbing potentials in the central part of Montenegro. We haven't got the data that there are ascended routes in the canyon.

How to get there

Mrtvica Canyon is situated near the Morača Canyon along which the major main road connecting the south and the north of Montenegro runs. The access to the canyon is the fastest and easiest from the Međuriječje village which is located 38 km away from Podgorica towards Kolašin. 1 km after the Pjenavac bridge, by the yellow house one should turn left (if approaching from the direction of Podgorica) downwards across the wooden bridge on the Morača River, 200 meters further on to the meadow from where the marked mountain trail to the canyon starts. It takes about 45 minute walk to get from the beggining of the trail to the entrance to the most attractive part of the canyon.

Accommodation.

There are no lodging facilities in the immediate surroundings of the Mrtvica Canyon. Before entering the central part of the canyon one passes through the Luke village, in which there are several meadows, but since they are private property it is necessary to ask local people about camping opportunities. Although it surely offers a great enjoyment, sleeping in the canyon is not advisable in the summer months due to the presence of snakes. The water of the Mrtvica River is drinkable.

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Summary:

스포츠 클라이밍, 고전등반 그리고 알파인 등반

Lat / Long: 42.479182, 18.767175

설명

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.500720, 18.749842

Summary:

스포츠 클라이밍, 고전등반 그리고 알파인 등반

Lat / Long: 42.434975, 18.776708

설명

At the foot of the slopes Lovćena, at the bottom of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean, is located in Kotor, a city of rich cultural tradition and one of the best preserved medieval urban centers in this part of the Mediterranean. Two thousand years of its history have left their traces in every stone of its buildings, towers, squares and walls, paintings, frescoes, in the records of the stone and paper, in all the portals and its narrow streets. As rarely, in Kotor are remnants of bygone eras. Due to the unique blend of different cultural influences Kotor's 1979th was added to the list of world cultural heritage under UNESCO protection.

For those who would like to combine the enjoyment of culture, architecture, history and tradition that provides Kotor, festivals and carnivals, swimming, sunbathing and a little climbing equipped sports directions, then Kotor is definitely your choice! I almost zaboravim.Nad Kotor dominated southern rock peak Pestingrad, 300-350 m height. No ascended routes! I believe that climbing this rock provide unforgettable experience with a view of the Bay of Kotor.

How to get there?

Do some climbing destinations in Montenegro, you will have problems to come. That is not the case with Kotor. As one of the most popular tourist destinations in this part of the Mediterranean is well connected with the traffic environment. It is located 5 km from the international airport of Tivat, lead up to it a number of bus lines from all over Montenegro in recent years and the Croatian. The nearest train station is located in Bar, at about 65 km distance.

Accommodation

As a tourist center, Kotor, offers various types of accommodation. The best information about accommodation in Kotor can be found on www.tokotor.com official site Tourist Organization.

Climbing

During the 2005 summer, Austrian climbers from Innsbruck with the assistance of the domestic climbers equipped 15 sport routes in three locations in Kotor. What those locations have in common is that the routes are mostly excellently equipped with glue-in bolts. The most attractive routes are situated in the sector above the bus station, in the clearly visible left section of the face, while the routes in the sectors Ljuta and St Stasije are less attractive and intended for novice climbers.

Sector above the bus station

Above the bus station there is a clearly visible yellow amphitheatre. This is a place with the hardest routes; there are four of those, which are located in the left wing of the amphitheatre. Those have difficulty grades ranging from VI to VIII. The rock is of an excellent quality, the routes have a length of 15 to 20 m. It is clearly visible from the main bus station in Kotor.

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설명

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

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설명

North rock face of Mt Hajla ridge is the biggest mountaineering/rock climbing potential on this mountain. The rocky ridge stretches almost 2 kms in width, while its height in the section below the highest peak is around 500 m. Due to its ruggedness, numerous steep and grassed gullies and couloirs it can be an attractive destination for winter alpine climbing, in particular, if one take into account that there are no ascended routes.

Approach and Descent.

The details of reaching the mountain hut at Bandžov have been already described. A marked mountain trail through the forest leads from the hut to the locality Grope - a meadow below the north rock face at around 1800 masl. Starting from the hut, it takes about 1.30 hours of moderate hike to reach Gropa, in which the abandoned katun is located. Descent is possible along the ridge following mountain markations in the direction of the east to the first ridge, and then one should descend from the ridge going towards Grope in the direction of the north.

Accommodation.

At above-mentioned mountain hut, or if you want to be closer to the crag in the tents on the meadows below the crag. The mountaineers from Rožaje have started building the new hut at Grope. The hut should be built by the end of 2009. By the abandoned 'flats'(cottages) where the new hut will be located there is a tapped (captured) karst spring-head called Studenac.

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설명

Near the Ostrog Monestery in the Povija village there are routes of various grades and heights. The equipped section refers to the crag with the height of 15-20 m, characteristic for its shape of a tower, which enables climbing all its faces. It has 4-5 routes with difficulty grades ranging from V to VII. There is a potential for equipping several hundred routes on the surrounding crags. Apprach: on the road Podgorica - Nikšić in the Bogetići village, about 40 km from Podgorica one should turn right towards the Ostrog Monastery. After about two kilometres, one should turn left towards the crags.

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설명

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

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설명

Mt Bioč is the largest group of peaks which are positioned between the deep canyons- Sutjeska Canyon on the west and Piva Canyon on the east. The largest crags in the area of these three mountains are located in this massif.

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설명

In the triangle among the rivers Piva, Drina and Sutjeska Maglić occupies the smallest space. The northernmost peak of the massif is at the same time the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Bosanski Maglić Peak(Bosnian Maglic) 2386 m. The peak has the shape of a pyramid, and all its faces are rocky. 400 m further to the south 2 m higher Crnogorski Maglić Peak(Montenegrin Maglic) is located . The north-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić Peak faces Perućica Primeval Forest. It is about 300m in height. It is rather rugged and compact looked as a whole. An obvious rib dominates its central part. The upper section of the rock face ends in the double-headed ridge. Approach to the rock is from the end of the road to Prijevor in the direction of the east, over the slopes covered with mountain pine. Drugi kotao(Second Kettle). Southwards from the first kattle there is the second kettle as well. It is bounded by the two east ridges the southernmore of which is considerably more jagged. From its north side "The Alpine Route" leads to the summit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. That ridge has the north rock face plummeting into the second kettle. It has a height of about 200m. That rock ends on the lower foresummit of Bosanski Maglić Peak. There it joins the east rock face which has a height of 250m. Along its height it is intersected with gullies. Approach to the rock is from " The Alpine Route" rightwards into the kettle hole. Crnogorski Maglić Peak

It has a height of 2388 m. Further southwards from the second kettle, the third kettle is located. The kettle has two prominent rock faces, the north face and the east face. The north rock face is prominent for its height and exposure. It has the height of about 300m. Especially in the middle of the rock face smooth slabs and overhangs are noticeable. This rock face via the narrow crack turns into the east rock face which is along its height wrinkled with gullies and chimneys. It has the height of around 250m. The approach is from the "Alpine Route". West and south-west rock face of Crnogorski Maglić Peak are separated along the centre with the jagged ridge which lowers down all the way to Stavljani, above Suva jezerina(Dry Lakeland). West rock face starts from a narrow cleft and grassed slope in its extension which separates the south-west rock face of Bosanski Maglić from Crnogorski Maglić. The crag starts with a fairly large rocky mass with the height of about 150m. Further on it increases all the way to the south-west ridge.The crag is rugged and exposed. The central section of the crag is about 300m high. The south-west rock face is situated somewhat closer to Trnovacko Lake. It has a height of about 200m. Below it there is a large scree ending on the grassy slope, which then, over the short rocky vertical, runs downhill into Suva jezerina. Approach to the rocks is from Prijevor, that is to say from the road to Suva jezerina and Trnovacko Lake. In order to approach it one should surmount short rocky verticals

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설명

Vlasulja Peak has the highest rock face in the massif of Mt Volujak with the height of about 350m. Central part of the north rock face is the most prominent. Going eastwards and westwards the rock face is gradually decreasing. Central part of the rock has the shape of trapezoid. It is characterized by its exposure and smooth slabs. The western section of the north rock face is about 200m high and it is intesected by chimneys and cracks. There are eight ascended routes on this crag. Like on most routes in this region, the difficulty grades III and IV with rare details of the V grade prevail.

Approach to below the rock goes from Trnovacčko Lake along the trail through the forest to the west to Trnovačke kolibe. Ascent should be continued along the trail leading through the dale on the west, which turns abruptly towards south-east to below the crag.

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설명

Within these group of the mountains a special place is occupied by the rocky barrier of Mt Trnovački Durmitor which towers above the lake on its southern side. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak and the north rock face of Centralna glava Peak(Central Head) are the most prominent parts of this massif. In these rocks there are the most of ascended routes in this region in general- about 20. Almost all routes were ascended at the rock&alpine climbing camps in 1954 and 1956. All of them are up to IV grade of difficulty except Direktni smjer trapeza(The Direct Route of Trapesoid) - Grade VI.

Trzivka Peak is situated in the eastern part of the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. The approach is from the marked trail Trnovačko Lake-Presjeka-Urdeni dolovi. The north-west rock face of Trzivka Peak is the highest crag in the massif of Mt Trnovački Durmitor. It has a height of about 350m. The approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along the herd path which turns left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe.

North Rock Face of Centralna glava Peak Centralna glava Peak is, as its name says, the central peak in the massif of Mt Trnovacki Durmitor. Its northern section has several characteristic groups of crags. In the eastern part of the crag there is a prominent shape similar to the one of the trapesoid. It is connected with the north-west rock face with two obvious gulleys between which a rather large ridge sticks out. Central section of the rock face is the most prominent and the largest one. It has a height of about 250m. Approach to the rock is from Trnovačko Lake, along a herd path turning left from the saddle, from the road to Trnovačke kolibe - 1hr.

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Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.535761, 19.818369

Summary:

Mostly 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.530553, 19.817450

설명

Introduction

Until recently Mt Prokletije has been a bait only for the masters of traditional climbing in big walls of this mountain where there are few easy and short routes. From May 2008 in the foot of these mountains sport climbing has started to live as well, owing to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the German organization for technical support and cooperation-GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in the Ropojana Valley and Grbaja Valley, southwards from Gusinje. The largest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipašini izvori, which could be a little bit cleaner, too. Visits made so far say that the best sector is Djerani, Troja Sector is pretty loose, while the two sectors in Grbaja Valley are around 10kms away and we still haven't got more precise data regarding those. Climbing season lasts from April/May to October/November. Pretty large number of sectors with different orientation provides an opportunity for climbing even in the warmest summer days.

How to Get There?

Gusinje is about 200 kms away from Podgorica. You'll need a minimum of 3-hour drive from the capital city, and perhaps even more if you find yourself stuck in some of the frequent summer traffic jams in the Morača Canyon or come across the roadworks. From Kolašin you can choose between two travel routes, one leading further along the main road via Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane, Andrijevica and Plav to Gusinje. This road is much longer, but also much better than the travel route running from Kolašin towards Mateševo via Bare Kraljske, past Komovi, over Trešnjevik pass to Andrijevica where it joins the above-mentioned route. Road over Mateševo is currently in a shabby condition, therefore we recommend you to take it only if you don't really care too much about your car, although you'll enjoy the view of Mt Komovi and soon forget giant potholes on the road. It takes 5 minutes by car or a 20 minute hike to get from Gusinje to the sector in the surroundings of Alipašini izvori. Two sectors in the Grbaja valley are about 8kms away from Gusinje.

Accommodation

In the Grbaja valley there are two mountain huts. One is the ownership of PD Radnički (Mountaineering Association Radnički) from Belgrade; it is permanently open only during the summer months, but it can be used the rest of the year as well. The other hut is the ownership of the mountaineers from Plav and Gusinje and is generally closed to the public. Apart from the hut, one can rent one of the several little log cabins, which can accommodate one rather big Šarplaninac(Yugoslav Shepherd Dog) or two men not taller than 170cm in lying position. Anyway, our recommendation is - be sure to bring along your tents. Camping is not banned anywhere, but if you really aimed at some meadow near the houses, ask the owners for permission.

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Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.255237, 18.885353

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.244990, 18.915998

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.199666, 18.959745

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 42.399053, 18.829169

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.399921, 18.837881

요약

Small bouldering area

요약

Small bouldering area

Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

요약

This area comprises Stari Bar and Menke Bar crags. Stari is where the strongest go to push their limits, whereas Menke is for easier climbing.

설명

These crags are located just above Bar Old Town up a narrow road.

접근 문제들

Limited Parking. Please carpool.

Summary:

요약

Very athletic climbing on overhanging limestone.

설명

An interesting mix of bouldering and sport climbing. While most of the lines reside in the 8 range, quite a few nice 7's can be found as well. This area goes into shade around 2-3 pm. The upper grey wall stays in the sun till about 5 or 6 pm. A breeze is necessary if you are going to climb here in the warmer months.

접근 문제들

Limited Parking. Please carpool.

접근

There are multiple pullouts to park at. One just before the rope to get you up to the main cliffline. You can also literally park directly underneath the "warmup" route Old Town, 6c. Though this is not recommended due to potential rockfall. Keep going past this concrete structure to the next bend where a few spots are available for parking. Either start by the conrete steps, or backtrack up the road till you get to the rope and climb up. The routes start shortly as you go uphill.

윤리문제

Don't leave any trash. Pick up any you see. Don't do your business under the overhangs, or the rain cannot wash it away. For shit's sake don't leave your toilet paper on the ground.

역사

Discovered by Russian climber Pavel Peskin in. 2014, who establed around 10 boulders here. In 2018 some Austrian climbers visited and bolted about 20 routes.

Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.097870, 19.141756

Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 42.434503, 18.716589

Summary:

Montenegro Guide

Table of contents

1. Montenegro 546 routes in Region

1.1. Podgorica 232 routes in Region

1.1.1. Smokovac 103 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Fundina 3 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Morača canyon 0 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Cijevna canyon 108 routes in Crag

1.1.5. Sjeničke stijene 1 route in Crag

1.1.6. Bioco 0 routes in Crag

1.1.7. Stijena Piperska 0 routes in Crag

1.1.8. Dromira 8 routes in Crag

1.1.9. Autocamp Titograd 9 routes in Crag

1.2. Kučke planine 21 routes in Region

1.2.1. Pasjak 9 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Surdup 6 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Štitan 2 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Velji Torač 4 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Velji vrh 0 routes in Crag

1.3. Durmitor 42 routes in Region

1.3.1. Boljske grede 9 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Zupci 1 route in Crag

1.3.3. Lojanik 4 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Šljeme 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Terzin bogaz 1 route in Crag

1.3.6. Savin kuk 0 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Bobotov kuk 0 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Obla glava 5 routes in Crag

1.3.9. Crvena greda 0 routes in Crag

1.3.10. Pirlitor 21 routes in Crag

1.3.11. Milošev tok 1 route in Crag

1.4. Komovi 37 routes in Region

1.4.1. Vasojevićki Kom 6 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Kučki Kom (južni vrh) 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Ljevorečki Kom (sjeverni vrh) 0 routes in Crag

1.4.4. Kolašin 31 routes in Crag

1.5. Orjen 22 routes in Region

1.5.1. Reovačka greda 6 routes in Crag

1.5.2. Subra 10 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Mrceve grede 5 routes in Crag

1.5.4. Zubacki kabao 1 route in Crag

1.6. Moračke planine & Maganik 0 routes in Region

1.6.1. Mrtvica canyon 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Boka Kotorska 42 routes in Region

1.7.1. Orahovac - Izvor Ljute 7 routes in Crag

1.7.2. Kotor 35 routes in Crag

1.8. Hajla 0 routes in Region

1.8.1. North rock face of Mt.Hajla ridge 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Nikšić sa okolinom 0 routes in Region

1.9.1. Povija - Nikšić 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 0 routes in Region

1.10.1. Bioc 0 routes in Crag

1.10.2. Maglic 0 routes in Crag

1.10.3. Volujak 0 routes in Crag

1.10.4. Trnovacki Durmitor 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Prokletije 97 routes in Region

1.11.1. Gusinje 97 routes in Crag

1.12. Budva 5 routes in Region

1.12.1. Tudorovici 3 routes in Crag

1.12.2. Buljarica 2 routes in Crag

1.13. Lovcen 3 routes in Region

1.13.1. Jezerski vrh 3 routes in Crag

1.14. Perazica do 0 routes in Area

1.15. Perazica 0 routes in Area

1.16. Bar Old Town 27 routes in Area

1.16.1. Stari Bar 27 routes in Crag

1.17. Menke bar 6 routes in Area

1.18. Tivat 12 routes in Area

1.18.1. Tivat 7 routes in Area

1.18.2. Sector 3 3 routes in Area

1.18.3. Sector 4 2 routes in Area