루트들 Coromandel Peninsula에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

P1: Starts a few meters right of JAFA Cake. The first half wanders from right to left and back again, mostly on crimps with a few jugs and side pulls. It then eases off for the last few bolts to the anchor.

P2: Shares the last 3 bolts and anchor with JAFA Cake.

From the belay of Buckle traverse left then up through the overhanging face. Easier climbing to the anchor. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

P1: Climb Buckle.

P2: Move left to the overhanging crack, follow it up to the right then pull over the lip.

P3: Follow the crack system to the right of the belay, up to the right hand end of the roof. Up a crack and groove system, then left to a bolted belay.

Up Age Concern to the belay of Buckle, then continue up to the right hand end of the roof. Up and over the lip on to the ledge.

P1: Starts right of Première. Crosses the line of Bring Back Buck. Crux at the top going straight up the overhanging face of the large horn feature.

P2: Up the face.

Originally climbed from the top of the first pitch of 'Shadowfax' but best done as a long pitch using what was known as 'The Twist' as a direct start. Joins the Shiny Goblins belay. A great route with a lot of climbing and a couple of technical cruxes.

A linkup taking in the crux of Coller De Hors before traversing to clip the last bolt and anchors of No Fly Zone. Great option if you only have a 60m rope.

Brilliant fun climbing, mainly a reasonable 19 until the overhang then a few bigger pulls through some jugs to some smaller holds with some great moves. An easy tick for the grade, or super hard if you get the moves wrong. The abseil is 38m, a 70m rope might get you down on stretch, or abseil left to the anchors on No Fly Zone

Start to the right of Coller de Hors. This climb is sustained but well protected. The crux involves pulling over the overhang and getting established on the steep wall above. Steep climb on good rock.

Starts right of Feariswheel, Climbs the arete and attacks the slight over hang, consistent climbing. Climb to the ledge below "Edging and Dilios" the anchors are on the face.

Climb the left line of bolts from the ledge on in-cut crimps and edges

Climb the right hand face from the chain. 30m of climbing with a few cruxes, step left at the top of the line to the anchors shared with "Shin-dig" Don't forget to enjoy the view!!!

Head up through vertical into steep climbing on a variety of jugs, pinches, crimps and pockets to 2/3 height then crimp your way to glory.

Head up an overhanging boulder problem into crimps on the face then either take the right hand side of the slab up the slopey arete. *Still needs Anchors.

May have been renamed "Alphabetic Disorder"

Abseil off the first belay point south of the summit (between two diving board shaped rocks), you head to the right (round the obvious ledge below). The start of the 1st completed pitch starts 60 metres down.

2. (19) Heads mostly straight up for around 30 metres before tending right to the belay point on the ledge 8 metres below the top [8 bolts].

3. (20) The top pitch is challenging with small holds and has an alternate finish using the bolt over the left (looking up) diving board - rated 22 if you feel like more of a challenge [4 bolts / 5 bolts].

Right-most bolted line of the main wall, under a huge white roof system. Technical climbing with a steep start. Easiest to clean by top-belaying a second. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line.

1. 25m (21) Up crackline with steep groove to stainless chain belay. Trad.

2. 25m (19) Follow crack up and boldly left around the arete to a series of caves, continue climbing up and left past two bolts and a two hanger belay in a small cave to a spacious belay cave with a chain anchor. Trad and 2 bolts.

3. 30m (23) Up past three bolts on funky featured rock to, then undercling right to gain an impressive corner crack. Trad and 3 bolts.

4. 30m (20) Up steep face and ledges. 9 bolts.

5. 25m (17) Up short, steep groove to slab. 6 bolts.

Rack: Wires and double camalots to #3 and a #4.

Start as for Home Again, before splitting off at half height following crack trending up and left. At the chocked block bust out left to flake feature before moving up to another chock (novel #4 camalot placement here). Sustained climbing follows with just enough gear to keep you going before joining Kapowai Calling at the bolt at the end of its second pitch.

Rack: wires, full set of cams to #4, doubles #0.3-1. Save the #0.75s to place after each chock.

Note: FA was on trad before Home Again was bolted.

The best route at Tairua? Follows a giant crack/chimney up the left side of the large central gully which splits the buttress. The first two and a half pitches were climbed ground-up on trad, but there is now a couple of bolts at the crux on the first pitch. Every pitch of this route is worth doing in its own right... no boring bits! Note the hardest moves (3rd pitch) are on bolts. All anchors are bolted.

1. (22) Slabby left-hand rising traverse leads to crux protected by two bolts, then power up corner to the first belay.

2. (19) A lovely hand crack turns into a layback / off-width, this pitch is awesome, bring big cams (could even use a no. 6 Camalot! Note the thrutchy crux is run out ~7m if you do not have anything bigger than a #4 camalot.

3. (23) Continue up the corner system on good gear until it runs out and you hit bolts halfway up the pitch. Try to find a bit of a rest before you hit a challenging sport crux (hard 23). Mantle out to the belay.

4. (20) Follow the bolts up the shallow corner and then traverse right to the steep but juggy arete. Some small holds bring you back left to the belay on a bushy ledge.

5. (18) Pure fun! Up the short wall with awesome features, mantle over onto a low-angle friction slab leading to the anchor a few metres below the bush line.

Rack: Doubles to #4, one #5 or #6.

Descent: Great rap line - all pitches are less than 30m so it can be done with a single 60m rope. Every rap leads you directly down to the previous belay, except for the first anchor which is slightly right of the rap line but is easy to swing across to.

Up the left side of the face without using the arrete. Feels like Castle Hill bouldering.

RH undercling and LH far left to stand holds.

Crimps and pinches to slopey mantle right of the arete.

Traverse the boulder from the furthermost right hand holds to the left arete, just above the ground. Dropping down to bum-drag the crux drops a V grade or two.

The left-most line of a couple of slopey edges then crimp edges, directly above the obvious crux of the traverse. Move right (slopey) to finish on the awesome jugs and gingerly into the bush. Harder than it looks.