루트들 스포츠 클라이밍로서 Oceania에서

Second line of bolts on the left side of the left tower as you come to it. Great movement and some committing first moves. Two carrots on top. Walk off.

nice route, mixed pro

The first route on the far LHS of the amphitheatre at the bottom of the descent gully. Nice grade 23 climbing up to the roof, then a desperate boulder problem over the lip of the overhang.

Start: Climbs the big corner below the roof in the centre of the cliff, then joins 'Cryptic Clue' for 2 bolts before heading diagonally, and spectacularly L out to the arête of the buttress. Best done in 2 pitches. Take 13 draws.

1. 25m (21) Climb easily up the face to the start of the very steep corner below the overhang. A terrific bit of climbing using chimney and bridging techniques up the corner. Step R at the roof to a double bolt belay on a small ledge.

2. 20m (23) Up the corner on the RHS of the main roof to a stance below another overhang. Head L and overcome the blank hanging slab by a huge reach to a jug (crux). Continue up the L-trending overlap towards the arête, and when the holds run out, turn the small roof of the overlap with a long reach from underclings to a jug over the roof. Finish up the arête. Belay to single FH and glue-in bolt about 3m to L. Descend by abseil from the glue-in anchors to the L and rig slings over the edge.

Double ropes necessary.

Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route.

The next line R, taking the line of bolts up the centre of the easy angled face. Some nice grade 17 face climbing to half height after which the route steepens, with a tricky move through a small roof. The crux is moving up from a pedestal and overcoming a blank section to gain the top corner. The top corner groove has a couple of cruxy moves and keeps you gripped all the way to the anchors. Lower-off, but double ropes necessary.16 bolts. The first route established at the Cluan Tiers.

An outrageous looking line taking a rising leftwards traverse underneath the roofs on very small holds before turning the roof out near the arête, then up the final groove to the top. An amazing and spectacular route. Bring up a second then walk off the top of the pinnacle.

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

On the far LH side of the wall is a line of 6 bolts up a slightly overhanging wall. Positive handholds all the way with an exciting finish.

Up the centre of the face starting 5m R of the previous route. Climb steeply on some big features to a juggy, runout conclusion. A superb route.

Climbs the left hand edge of the main wall and tackles some unlikely territory for the grade. Superb climbing. Stick clip first bolt. Step off the boulder high on the left and pull round right onto the face. Technical face climbing up to the big roof with a cruxy move moving right to gain the base of the roof. Bridge upwards then traverse left to arete. Move up to gain big underclings with second crux involving funky moves around the bulge. Continue up the corner to top.

The bolted route near the centre of the cliff. Tackles some steep territory with the crux going through the bulge after the second bolt. There is another tricky move going through the gap in the roof just below the anchors. 9 bolts. FA: Nick Hancock.

2 Carrot Bolts. Abseil from tree

2 Carrot Bolts. Abseil from tree

2 Carrot Bolts. Back up top Bolt with sling to tree for belay/ abseil

A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.

1. 35m 22 Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.

2. 15m 21 Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.

3. 28m 21 Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

This has now been bolted.

The classic of the crag

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Starts behind the young gum. A possum sometimes sleeps near the anchor bolts, be wary.

Delicate slabbing, starting from the ledge at the base of Mentzal as Anything. Climbs the right side of the right arete of the Touchstone Buttress.

Well protected steep slab.

1. 35m (22) 13 bolts to DBB

2. 35m (20) 12 bolts to DBB. Ignore DBB after 7 bolts and continue to the top.

Small orange buttress at the head of the gully. Climb from left to right on FH's. DBB.

The short sport route on back of Wolfetone. No lower-off.

Slab with a carrot bolt on LHS of Surprise Surprise.

Slab to the left and above the Sweetie Buttress. 2 Carrot Bolts.

Up face via small cams in seam and FH's to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors. A block with the crux hold worked loose mid-2017 increasing the grade of the climb from 20 (to 21 or 22).

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

Climb the cruxy corner to the second bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

Follow the two BRs R of VoF to crack near top.

R of LZ, head up to the BR. Then up and L, passing a hole to finish up LZ's crack. (Note the carrot bolt here looks horrible; I would not trust it to hold a fall.)

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the 'Rev Head' block.

More thinness, up the middle of the 'Rev Head' block. Trad anchor, descent is down chimney.

Up the short, blunt arete, avoiding using the boulder or wall to the right. Bouldery crux getting past a fixed hanger, then thin slabbing above, past a carrot bolt with a large head. Originally graded 24, but realistically is only 22, or possibly 23 if you're short.

Trad anchor required, then scramble off left to descend, or alternatively continue up Waning Crescent. Rebolted Jan 2016.

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

(As a mixed trad route: Line with single BR between Skippy and Undertow, up to the latter's DBB on right. Little to no protection, other than the bolt, available until the last few meters.) This climb can be led by using side runners from the nearby bolts. At the top climb the second runnel right of the moss-filled half pipe as per Jack and Jill.

Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'. Finish on One For The Masses 5th bolt. Retrobolted with permission of FA, Dec 2016.

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'.

Originally graded 23. Multiple retrobolts have tamed down the experience. Plus the later added easier left hand finish which everyone takes gives the impression it was overgraded.

For the true experience as climbed by Charlie, only clip the 2nd bolt to the break to experience the original scary runout weighed down with trad rack to lace up the break. Above go slightly right not left.

Has also had its name amended to something much nicer at the request of some good friends! A big thank you to “Hard Very” Tzvia for suggesting the slug theme. Charlie Creese

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018

Up to cave as for YW, but continue direct over the rooflet and up a groove past a 3 FHs and an RB.

Start: Start as for YW.

Start: Start below R side of mossy groove. Rebolted by the FA - 2020

Groove to cave, up chimney about 2m then swing L out of chimney onto prow over roof/arete, then up face.

Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018

Start: Start to the R of the chimney. Up the face past 4 FHs to a double UB lower off.

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

Cruxy. Rebolted by the FA 2020. Start L of Black Magic as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past 3 RBs to anchor to the R of 'Wee Ripper'.

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: 3m to the right of the chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Climb straight up the groove of the dark, water runnel, finishing through the mossy chimney to the DRB.

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming! May have been mistaken for the direct but the original was always (26).

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

Bouldery 24, desperate to break then easy.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

FIFTH BOLT HAS BEEN REPLACED 17/04/16

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of Melbourne. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

2 FHs starting from the gum tree. Originally climbed as Gumslinger protected by a high sling in the gum tree. Retrobolted by FA in Mar 2023.