루트들 Oceania에서

Left of FOMO. Punchy start, techy finish. Save some gas and skip the last bolt.

A very gymnastic climb on amazing limestone style rock down low and bomber sandstone in the upper half. Really varied moves. Long draws help to stop rope drag.

Direct line from start of Freaky Styley through cool pocketed roof. Please update if you have any info.

Up Aretica to the rest jug, then move around the corner and up to crux and anchors.

Roof route starting on high ledge on left side of wall. Swing right along roof-flake, then around bulge to big jugs. Keep trucking right on smaller holds past permadraw chain then up and out final roof using drilled pocket that replaces a glue reinforced flake that exploded. Single bolt lower-off to the left in orange streak. Back jump to clean.

Start 3m L of KaD straight up the wall on the big breaks and pockets to a crimpy final.

Three big moves. Start as for dyno start of Chisel Mode for one bolt then directly up, right a bit then left up black streak with two very spaced mega pockets. Finish up ethically enhanced holds.

Start as for Riot Wing and from the middle of the roof go L to the anchors of WOSA.

starts near the middle of the back wall just left of 'terrible thomson twins' at new U-bolt, then follows 5 rusty carrot bolts trending up & left over rounded mantle bulge to finish standing on top.recommend taking a broom to sweep off all the pine needles before climbing. ignore the U-bolts near the arete with the double U-bolt anchor as this is an unfinished project.

Do the crux of Fascination street & finish up Goccio D’aqua. Both cracks are off on this too.

Another COVID linkup, for the kind of person who thinks Struggle Street would be better if only you were more pumped going into it. Batman to the arete, reverse Just One Fixe for 4 bolts, then at the pocket go up to the next break, so you can continue traversing into the Struggle Street crux without touching the ledge. Finish up Struggle St.

As for Kaos but both cracks used in the dyno are off. Go straight up through the middle on some techy small stuff and pop for the jug rail above.

A super long traverse. Start as for Transfixed (route 34) and keep traversing right to join Just One Fixe (route 39), instead of going up, keep going right following the horizontal line of bolts to finish at the start to Just One Fixe and other routes where the ledge is. Stay low along the wall. A good route when no one else is at the crag as you use up so much space.

Starts out with a one finger pocket

Big, feels like El Cap after the other sports climbs in the area. Climb up with increasing difficulty to a bridging session then a pair of rooflets and finish at the 8th ring, a 50m rope just reaches.

2m right of Wag's Effort.

Swarm up arete, balancy over roof with unique suction move, then up wall past a thin crux. 6 RBs to double RB lower off.

2m right of PtC.

Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs.

The name says everything about the history of this climb! Start on the last conceivable piece of rock on the right side before it undercuts and turns to choss. Was originally led in two pitches?! Rebolted 2008.

Start: Up and left past RB then jugs to big ledge. Over rooflet, a bit right then back left to gain left facing small corner. At the top of this blast straight up the face above to lower-off. Original route headed left from the small corner and up past some 'interesting' fixed pegs that are still visible.

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree.

Do this!

Start: 3m right of Tilt.

Boulder up on great rock, then traverse left and up to anchors.

Blast straight up the guts on slopers to gain access to the top crux of Wake Up Time To Fly.

Gabriele G

Up slab to overhang, straight up through hard terrain with some long moves to a pumpy finish in the roof!

Straight forward, straight up to nails Font style knockout crux and engaging runout to anchors.

Hard move off deck then up to overhang.

2m left of POF. Old Skool power endurance crimping with a very hard crux at two thirds height, then yet more crimping to the top.

CLOSED PROJECT

Starts 3 meters left of 'A'. Tend right following RB's.

Start 2m left of 'Mufasta'. Climb up into some burley crimps through to some easier climbing to finish on two lower offs.

Start as for Jazz Maverick and throw out right to join Approaching Showers an awesome link up.

The steep proud line, punchy climbing through nice rock, starting in the slot under the roof from the ground, Do not use rock cairn, begins by climbing the balancy short slab and out first rooflet.

Start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to right!

(link up) Start as for family Ties and once you are established on the flake features traverse right for a couple of bolts and finish up Bird Bath Blues. Can start up Ancestry for slightly softer variant.

Up wall, roof, and shallow corner 10m L of Hobbit Corner.

“It’s so evil and lemon scented” Long move to start then layback to break. Finish up tough wall with super sloping topout. Friction is your friend!

Short arete right of WB&D. Energetic starting moves with a delicate finish.

LH variant of ‘Failure is your Friend’ Interesting boulder finisish.

Hard off the deck on old school chipped pockets to an easier finish

Stays dry! Easiest to walk in from top, opposite corner of Lugarno Parade and Fir Pl, walk 40m south the cliffedge, and down diagonal dirty gully, then left facing downhill to cave. This route crosses 2 of the old aid lines. Start off ledge and interestingly establish yourself above the bulge to a rising traverse and single bolt anchor at the lip of the roof. Back drop a couple of bolts to clean.

Batman 🦇 start. Fantastic steep climbing into the roof. It faces west however because of the steepness it is shadey most of the day.

Start 2m left of Backstabbing Cousins. Short powerful crimpy wall. Harder than it looks. Engage beast mode to do the crux move.

Start 4m R of HH, and tackle scoop, dyno then Hulk down on some nice slopers

Starts 2m R of 'Bill Collins', and finishes at anchors of the extended version of 'Gidget Verdon'. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

Another route from the industrial revolution.

Start: 1m right of 'Dingo'

The first route you come to after the walk down. Tough boulder problem after second bolt.

The orange overhanging open book corner to the L of the wet cave. The hardest part is keeping your feet dry on the bottom of the route.

As for Will o'the Wasp , at 4 metres move right to double bolt belay in back of cave. Crux climb the overhang and short hard wall above

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

a few metres R of piss point. natural gear, smallish cams and a couple of #2-3 nuts give adequate protection down low until you get into the business up higher with a couple of rings to get you there. Anchors for top roping. This climb is a must!

Left end of cave, stick clip first bolt to protect start, up to break #1 & 1.5 camming device then up steepening wall. DBB.

10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.

Steep climbing to finish at the "Swine Traverse" anchors.

CLOSED PROJECT.

Access

Starts from ground level. To access walk 20m past the overhang on lunch ledge to DUB below grey face with undocumented sport routes. Abseil ~25m down vegetated slope to cave (fixed rope advised). Next abseil is right (facing in), from DUB, ~25m to small ledge. Another ~25m abseil from DRB to ground.

1. 25m (Project) - Up the face to orange corner, traverse left under small roof then straight up open book corner. DRBB.

2. 25m (26) - Upwards through thin crack (crux) and a long move, then continue through easy runout. Climb through excellent orange wall with pockets and mantle bulge. Up the slab to DUBB.

3. 25m (Unknown) - Existing route finishing at steep slope. Route information and access back to lunch ledge TBC

Up the thin slab then veering left near the top.

4mts R of Praise the Lord. Hard.

5 U bolts to Wiregate loweroff.

Very balancy, a gift from Jace Piper

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

Technical face climbing on incuts and then intricate arete and wall to get to the top of the boulder. Classic. May be easier/harder but who knows how to grade blunt arête slab cruxes?

A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing.

Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'.

Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor.

“The last laugh should last forever”.

Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start.

Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge.

Start: The second line of bolts, the direct line.

Straight up through bulges to lower off sixth bolt.

Start down on very small ledge (build a semi hanging belay). Follow easy ramp slightly right to first rooflet. Short boulder through this and up easy slab crack into the big main roof. Bust out this through the lip turn (crux). Continue up pumpy headwall then tackle the final third rooflet boulder problem to topout at DBB.

Original aided at 20 M1 and exited left through vegetated alcove, must do third rooflet for the full tick.

Originally a very dangerous route with the possibility of decking at the crux. Has since been rebolted to satisfy the trembling hordes. An absolute bum-stinger! Start: As for Sweet Surrender. Directly up from first bolt on S.S. then trending left from second bolt to third then up (fourth bolt) to exit up groove. Double-bolt belay.

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

The holy grail complete link up of 'SS', past the wasp nest and through 'TIAB' in reverse. And seeings you've come this far why stop now? Complete the trifector by tacking-on TST.

Hard fingery and sharp start into thin crack then straight up the wall to common anchors

Right of The Dreaming Wall, just left of the big tree. Up thin start to an interesting finish below the upper wall. Lower off as for Dreaming Project.

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts. Punchy move up & right to gain good rail and a slight stance. Pump on up using small edges to tricky redpoint crux move at last bolt. Skip or clip? After last bolt head across right to Talc anchors. Classic climbing

Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt.

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier.

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Just left of Foghorn, reach the start jug off the top of the boulder. Follow fixed hangers up and right into cavelets. Then traverse left past ring to kneebar rest. Clip another ring then a tough final move to the anchors.

Pitches of 23 (Trad), 26 (Sport), 24 (Trad).

P1 (23) Brilliant technical trad climbing, a fun warm up.

P2 (26) Be careful getting to 1st clip (easier for the tall)move up left side of FH then step gingerly across right to sloping ramp. Follow a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to get to the pedestal belay (13 draws).

P3 (24) Hard start with potential to fall onto belay as the 1st bolt is quite high up, place a long sling when rapping in. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

Its helpful to rap in on a long static (100+m), makes for a quick escape if required

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.