루트들 Oceania에서

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Start on pinchy block to a hard sloper traverse into underclings and wild cross-throughs to crimps up high. Hard. Stand start at the undercling is V9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjrW3GyEhlU

A foot at the start has broken since the FA making the start harder... the full opening sequence has been done post break now - possibly V12 for the full line post break

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left. https://youtu.be/OJLEjkm5UdI

Still a proj?

Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'.

Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

Sit start on the good right hand ledge and small left hand crimp with a right heel hook. Squeeze your way up the bulge and trend right to the horizontal break, then finish as for 'Stand Alone'. Avoid transitioning into 'Stand Alone' before the horizontal break. https://vimeo.com/177325958

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Low start to Left Hand Man V8/9. Start right on sharp edge and left low on side of boulder. Adds hard first move into start of Left Hand Man

There is the potential to start at the far left of this boulder and traverse into Hideout, will be tight to avoided dabbing the ground and could be very hard.

Open project.

Extension to Moses.

Start up Xerxes, then straight up to join Hey Zues.

Start up Rua Tahi but ever right through steep crux.

Pitch above Euphrates.

Climb Kaz's project to the rest at the 8th bolt, then traverse hard right to the flat ledge at the 9th bolt of Bogus. Finish as for that route.

Same as for Hydroplaning, but upon latching the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, follow the line of bolts angling up and right to finish as for the Enigma of Kasper Hauser.

Similar to Phantom Menace, but traverses one level lower. After reaching the 3rd bolt of Gorilla Grip, head right but instead of going up to the good rest at the penultimate bolt of Kaz's, traverse straight right to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route.

The steep overhanging arete and prow. start up the hound boulder then continue up to a difficult boulder working from one arete to the other. will be the hardest climb in the N.I one day.

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran. Jump start off the boulder and then up up and away forever, topping the cliff to finish. Vince climbed it to the first anchors above the lip and called that Spacecake (30).

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Variation to Mr Pink.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

Start on good slot about 1.5m in and on the right hand side of the middle cave entrance. Complete tensiony moves through holds on roof to obvious large sloping rail (shared with Chronos). Finish on ledge to the left of middle cave entrance.

Most powerful move in the Quantum field! Sit-start is also grade v11

Sit-start on a shallow undercling pocket and a poor pinch at the back of the cave and link into Freak Show. Easier if you stack the pads under the starting holds.

Sit start

Climb 'Warrant of Fitness' but instead of going to the jug rail carry on with 'Leon's line' and finish up that.

Climb Warrant of Fitness and finish with The Wheel of Waitomo.

https://youtu.be/FwBAQ4L1ClY

Start as for Frantastic, climb Frantic and traverse through the scoop to finish with Savage Alfresco. The holds on Du Hast have been eliminated.