루트들 Oceania에서

Crouch start

Caution: Fatal risk.

Radical Dyno. Cautious: Fatal risk

Jerry-start

Start near the centre of the cave with LH gaston and RH undercling. Make a hard pull on and slap LH to sloper. Latch RH crimp then throw to a good edge. From here, grab the good ball hold then climb straight up the face on good holds. Finish to the right on the bucket.

Start as for Arachnophobia, then commence traversing left to top out as for End of the Rainbow. This line is an eliminate and excludes all holds "made out of glue". Interesting distinction, and likely subject to change as the cave evolves. The line stays low, underneath the steepest parts of the wall.

Stand stand on 'perfect single pad crimp', continue up and left through the short roof on teeny grips.

Sit start on two small crimps, pull up and make a long move into the start of Boilerplate.

Crouch start on the big undercling beneath the boulder. Slap around the bulge to the small flakes, exit straight up as per Uber Alles.

The extension to Pumping Iron. Sit-start below Allison Wonderland with an undercut and a sloper thing with a handy thumb pocket. Crank left to a small rail, match and then truck left to join the start of Pumping Iron.

Start a body-length back from the glued flake on some obvious underclings (P) (the right hand one is a jug). Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and exit up off piste. From the flake using the Musashi rail if needed get right hand to pinch, left hand to flatty, then the little crimps above the jug (that’s being skipped), then top out

The low, low Start to 'Control Freak'. Start as for 'Pro Series' on the double underclings, move to the flake and carry on up 'Out of Control'

Start sitting on the block, with hands matched on the rail. Pull up and snatch the broken pocket with the right hand. Take the big pinch, slap the lip and mantel.

Start matched in the small roof below the Wavelength Traverse start on a very thin, flaring undercling. A big crossover move will prevent the dab. Continue with Wavelength Traverse and finish with Beaster.

AKA ‘The Scoop’. A classic problem that requires good footwork, subtle movements and fingers of steel.

If you get bored, try linking Speeding Up into Power, Corruption and Lies.

Direct start to '10. Scooby Do' Climb up the face without using any holds near the left edge.

Sit start with the left on the big edge and the right on the arete. Work your way up the sloping ramp and transition onto the face for an exciting finish. The stand start goes at the same grade. No pockets, feels like climbing granite.

Start as 'Check your Head' climb 'Leon's Line' and finish up Frantic, the Du Hast plates are out. Very Sustained!

This line climbs The Wheel of Waitomo but eliminates the Du Hast shelf and plate by climbing Leon's Line (the outside face below the Du Hast shelf to the nose) to reach the nose. Finish as for The Wheel of Waitomo.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF5PRpy_CBs&t=48s&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre

Climb Warrant of Fitness and finish with Transverselina. Not at hard as the Line of Fitness, but a solid 10.

This climb links Days Well Spent into Check Your Head to end at the Power Puku finish. Climbs on the first tier holds. https://www.instagram.com/p/CqzM00LS8-_/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Around 38 moves.

Start as Power Puku and straight through the start of Franks Better Half using the plate, then through the blank horizontal roof (undercling holds) out to the lip, finish up Savage Alfresco. FA video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLkTsHA_vhk

Start as for Frank's Route and finish with Savage Alfresco.

Do the Sub Zero traverse, but continue upwards climbing the crux moves of Magic Potion to the right hand jug hold. First V10 in Tasmania

Hang start with some tough moves and a big span.

Start in the pocket on the left of the face and head slightly left where there are holds. Could also be started out a flake in the cave on the left with a big span into the pocket.

Just right of the previous problem is an undercut roof facing up river. Start RH on the lowest good undercling/sidepull in the roof, LH squeezing the left face at about the same height (~25cm below the divot), and feet on the detached 'diving board' boulder below the actual roof block. Pull hard compression moves requiring quite a bit of core tension to gain a jug over the lip, followed by an easier top out. Probably a little more interesting exercise for developing that 6-pack you always wanted than doing sit-ups, but that's a matter of opinion. Climbing this without using the protruding boulder for feet would easily bump the grade up 2 or 3 numbers.

Start on the slopey right hand trending lip and punch right via hard moves to mantle top out.

Sit Start. Lh on low arete, RH low on incut crimp. Go up

Great problem with big and powerful compression. Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on arete. Rest is up to imagination at this point

Stand start on 2 bad slopey edges with bad feet and mountain goat your way to the top. Very hard by the feel of it.

Sit start in the back of the cave, do some funky moves with cryptic beta and top out over the slightly less fun landing

Sit Start on diagonal Left-hand Crimp and Incut Right-hand just above head height, and finish as for 'The Stroll Stand'

The lower start to Pound of Flesh V7. Stand start with LH in rippled sloper and RH on triangle crimp/pinch, Big RH move to decent edge and then slap your way into Pound of Flesh start holds. Definitely room still for a sit start, very small holds. Low percentage and compression resistant, a classic of the crag.

Start low in the hole on two crimps and head rightwards on relatively easy ground to a powerful finale on small crimps to the lip.

Starting with side pulls low on the overhanging wall under the horn, direct moves up to the horn and top out.

Sit start on the sloping rail way left, almost in the notch against the small boulder, head straight up the face finishing with a desperate deadpoint to the sloper on the lip. Classic climbing and somewhat committing, safer than it first seems...

Project - Same start as Sperm Whale, blast high and right to side pull-ish feature and then up.

The striking highball arete on the main face of the boulder. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the arete, lob up to the sloper and continue up past edges and pockets before cruising up the highball victory head wall. The easiest way down is to down climb the headwall and jump onto the pads.

Start around the arete left of Iyora, up to small pocket and then mantle left.

Start as for Ball and Chain and make your way right, topping out on Sledgehammer, pumpy climbing.

Up face and finish straight up.

Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not.

Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug.

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip.

Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip.

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Sit start on the northern face bottom right, up trending leftwards on small crimps, to slopey topout

Sit start on obvious low rail, two hard crimpy moves to a committing mantle.

Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets

Hang start on good holds head up and left via burly compression moves. Chockstone is out.

The very slopey bulge, head up and right.

5 meters to the right of Nice for what is a blank face with text on it. Start left and right low on the flake. Flake running up the face, with a slab top out. Project

Named after the ancient Inland Sea, this intimidating highball was a project for nearly a decade until Ryan fought his way up it. The thin seam at the far right of the western wall, right next to the main entrance. Stand start on tiny crimps, strenuous moves up and R gain arete and undercling, before technical, committing moves lead to a high and scary top out.

The queen needs a doctor! Climb God Save The Queen to the good jugs of Angelina's. Then break left along Dr. Angelina to it’s finish (the finish of Locked Down).

NAGA finishing traversing into Post-Colonial exit and top-out. A tad harder than NAGA and EVEN more contrived! Have fun.

Start as for The Calm Before the Storm once you have reached the finishing jug, continue leftwards through a series of crimps until you reach the starting holds of Locked Down, LH undercling and RH crimp. Continue to climb Locked Down to its finishing hold.

One of the longest lines at the crag, roughly 25-30 hand moves. A full on pumper!

Sit start at the far back left of the cave on good holds. Make a series of big moves on poor holds through the blank section of rock and directly gain the good hold in the crack (CBTS finish hold). From here continue up through ion stone flake and head towards the matching sloper before making a big move to the lip. Mantle and finish.

The vague arête 1m right of Keep Calm. Stand start on high poor hand pinch and right hand good edge (will require stacked pads). Make big move to right hand right edge and bust to lip to top-out. Possible lower start matched on edges right of the arete. Estimate grade V12+

Sit start as per 'Can't dance, but I can do the Twist', traverse lip to the right, exiting as per 'Hop on Up'.

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. Dropped some grades from V12 due to new beta. Named for the butchering of Shariks beta on other Pad climbs.

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and some compression. Originally graded V12. Slightly easier than Butchers according to the FA.

Madball Stand to completion then traversing right through prominent bulge and into finish on Tao/Butchers finish jug. Originally graded 11.

Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time.

An old local project nabbed by Klem! Sit start with left hand on the Jaques underclings. Make a move (crux) into the left sidepull above then right hand into good undercling, then into and finish as for Chocolate. AKA the sit start to Chocolate (known as the Pinch). Given 7c/V9 by Klem but upgraded by 2nd and 3rd ascentionists.

Hot Chocolate into Chocolate Aftertaste, finishing on a higher jug via an exciting sidepull move.

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31).

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem.

Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain.

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.