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접속점들 Central Region에서

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접속점
Central Region

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

Bucegi Massif
Coștila

Big walls in alpine setting with long approaches and descents.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Bolovanul lui Mitică

Boulder with some short sport routes, placed below the trail marked with red triangle.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Bolovanul lui Mitică
Traseul 1

Area is populated by bears.

Traseul 2

Area is populated by bears.

Traseul lui Mitică

Area is populated by bears.

Toarta de gresie

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Peretele Văii Albe
7- Xibalba

Area is populated by bears.

2B Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - Şistoaca vestică

Area is populated by bears.

3B Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - ieşire în Brâna Mare a Coştilei

Area is populated by bears.

4A Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe

Area is populated by bears.

7- Faţa sud-estică a Pintenului Văii Albe

Area is populated by bears.

5 A1 Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe

Area is populated by bears.

6+ - 7+ A1 Traseul Dinamo '69

Area is populated by bears.

6+ A1 Fisura Verde

Area is populated by bears.

7 Fisura Albă

Area is populated by bears.

6 - 7+ A0 Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru

Area is populated by bears.

Tărâmul Celălalt

Area is populated by bears.

6+/7- A0 Fisura Roşie

Area is populated by bears.

6 Fisurile Centrale

Area is populated by bears.

Traseul XX

Area is populated by bears.

5B Traseul Central

Area is populated by bears.

5B Fisura Uitată

Area is populated by bears.

6 Muchia Brânelor

Area is populated by bears.

7+ - 9- A0 Just another fucking day

Area is populated by bears.

9- A1 Traseul Speranţei

Area is populated by bears.

7A Ultimatum

Area is populated by bears.

7 A1 Memorial Emilian Cristea

Area is populated by bears.

10-/10 Căruţul cu rotile

Area is populated by bears.

8+ A1 Fisura Albastră Directă

Area is populated by bears.

7A Cetatea Eternă

Area is populated by bears.

6+/7- A0 Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea

Area is populated by bears.

7+ Prinţesei

Area is populated by bears.

3 Sărutul Pământului

Area is populated by bears.

6+ - 7+ A0 Diedrul Pupezei

Area is populated by bears.

7+ Diedrul Pupezei - varianta originală

Area is populated by bears.

5 - 6+ A0 Lespezi

Area is populated by bears.

7+ R3 Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat

Area is populated by bears.

6- Bator şi Fefeleaga

Area is populated by bears.

7+ A0 Tremurici

Area is populated by bears.

Fisura cu Brâne

Area is populated by bears.

5B Traversarea Peretelui

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Peretele Brânei

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Peretele Brânei
4A Hornul din Blidul de sub Streaşină

Area is populated by bears.

4A Muchia Blidului Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

4B Faţa nord-estică a Blidului Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

3B Hornul din Blidul Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

5A Muchia Hornului din Blidul Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

4B Fisura Sudică din Blidul Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

4B Tavanele din Peretele Brânei

Area is populated by bears.

5A Traseul Dinamo

Area is populated by bears.

4B Muchia din Santinela Blidului Uriaşilor

Area is populated by bears.

5A Muchia din Găvanul Mare

Area is populated by bears.

5A Fisura din Peretele Găvanului Mare

Area is populated by bears.

5A Traseul Viespilor din Găvanul Mic

Area is populated by bears.

3B Traseul Moş Gelepeanu

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Peretele Policandrului

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Peretele Policandrului
5 - 6+ A0 Hornul Vulturilor

Area is populated by bears.

7+ A0 Surplombelor

Area is populated by bears.

6+ - 8- A1 Fisura Mult Dorită

Area is populated by bears.

8 A0 Piticot

Area is populated by bears.

6 - 8- A1 Fisura Policandrului

Area is populated by bears.

6+ - 8- A1 Fluturele de Piatră

Area is populated by bears.

7- - 8- A0 Eneida

Area is populated by bears.

7+ A1 Fisura Suspendată

Area is populated by bears.

9- A1 Exordium Ex Abrupto

Area is populated by bears.

7+ A0 Innominata

Area is populated by bears.

8+ Narcisiada

Area is populated by bears.

7 A0 Creasta Vulturilor

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Peretele Vâlcelului Stâncos

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Peretele Vâlcelului Stâncos
7 A1 Traseul Oblic

Area is populated by bears.

7- A0 Surplomba cu Pendul

Area is populated by bears.

5+ - 6+ A0 Bivuacul Caprelor

Area is populated by bears.

7+/8- Domn Dan

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Ţancul Mic

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Ţancul Mic
6+ Fisura Răsucită

4B 6+ (6 A0), one of the easier, better-protected routes in the area.

P1: head right on a slab then up left on a crack (with a slightly overhanging, airy, tricam-eating exit) to an intermediate, single-bolt belay on the right (only needed if rope drag is going to be a problem). Then head left over a series of ledges under a short overhanging dihedral. Belay on bolts, next to a tree.

P2: head up on a finger-width crack, ignoring the line of pitons heading to the left. After the first bolt, pay close attention to the holds you're using since there are some friable slabs that would fall on your second if pulled loose. There's especially some sketchy sandstone - especially after rain or in freeze-thaw cycles it may be safer to just pull on draws instead. Follow the bolt line to the right on a traverse to a chockstone (the rock gets decent again right before the chockstone) and up left on the chimney the chockstone fits into. It'll narrow to a crack as it goes past an overhang. Traverse right at the second overhang, belay on a ledge

P3: Head left on a grassy, slabby dihedral then bushwhack a bit to the belay (bolts,next to a tree)

P4: Traverse left to a very well protected dihedral, past an overhang, then into easy but unprotected terrain for the second half (there's a crack version which is harder, or a ridge one which is easier). Clip the bolt on a ledge near the exit and belay off some trees.

P5, 6 (optional): Continue on the ridge, on easy but hard to protect terrain (sling the occasional bush, plus there are a couple pitons and anchors, go over a small peak (there are two pitons, a boulder that takes a 120cm sling and a tree to use as pro so the second doesn't downclimb it unprotected), belay in a small col off your harness while clipped into a piton.

Retreat: If not doing the optional pitches, rap down the third (platform) belay on Hermann Buhl (2x 35m, first rap on a piton rather than the tree to prevent the ropes from getting stuck). If single-piton raps aren't your thing, stop after the 3rd pitch and get down to the last belay of Fisura Însorită (20m), then down the second belay of Hermann Buhl (30m) and down (30m). If doing the optional pitches, continue right around the ridge (on a fixed rope) to anothe col full of bushes, that has a tree with a piton in it. Rap off the piton since the tree leads to the ropes getting stuck (30m), and throw your rope to your right since the crack on the left eats ropes.

7+ A1 Fisura Însorită

Area is populated by bears.

7+/8- Şoricelul

Area is populated by bears.

7 Pasărea cu Barbă

Area is populated by bears.

7- Hermann Buhl

5A 7- (6 A0)

A very well protected route that traverses almost the whole wall. Consider splitting the longer pitches (it crosses half the routes on the wall, and most of them have a belay close to it or directly on it) and/or not clipping every piton you run into, else even 20 draws might not be enough.

P1: Two variants, the one higher being the original. The secondary, lower version is 7c rotpunkt, an overhanging left-facing crack that leads to an intermediate belay on P1. The original version climbs on a slab into an overhanging but aidable dihedral, then traverses right to an intermediate, 2-bolt belay (this is where the harder variation rejoins the main line). From there, head up a slab, then once over a ledge, into a right-leaning dihedral. Belay on the gigantic boulder making up the left wall of the dihedral

P2: Downclimb carefully left on a grass ledge that leads to very gentle slab, then gain a ridge (airy move, exiting the ridge by an overhang) and onto vegetated terrain left, to a belay on a ledge at the base of a slab.

P3: Follow a ramp to the left the whole pitch. Consider not clipping all the aid pitons, or even 20 draws won't be enough. The start is easy and heavily vegetated, then life gets harder and rockier until the ramp is interrupted by an overhang (crux of the pitch, easily aidable) and continues left on easy terrain to a belay on a ledge at the base of dihedral. There's an intermediate belay on a slab on the ramp (2 close bolts)

P4: Head up on a dihedral but traverse on a left crack as quickly as possible (the line heading directly up, to the ceiling, is a harder route). The crack leads to a small overhanging face, that can be bypassed on the left (crux of the route, aidable A1). Then head up and to the left, bypass an intermediate belay, then up on a dihedral to a belay next to a tree with a red bit of metal stuck to it ("Smoking place"). The pitch continues up on a small, well-protected dihedral and then on very easy terrain to a single-piton belay, but it's advisable to stop here to belay the second since you're on bolts.

Retreat: rap down from the Smoking Place (60m, potentially iffy rope recovery) or continue on the ridge (uphill, on the right side,on a fixed rope) to another col full of bushes, that has a tree with a piton in it. Rap off the piton since the tree leads to the ropes getting stuck (30m), and throw your rope to your right since the crack on the left eats ropes.

7- - 8 A0 Noua Dictatură

Area is populated by bears.

8- Love Hearts

Area is populated by bears.

9/9+ Abyssus Inexpugnabilis

Area is populated by bears.

8- A0 Hardy

Area is populated by bears.

8 A0 Suzana

Area is populated by bears.

7+ - 9+ A0 Mizantrotheosis

Area is populated by bears.

6+ A0 Flamura Roşie

Area is populated by bears.

8- Veveriţa

Area is populated by bears.

3A Bursucul

Area is populated by bears.

M6 Iliada

Area is populated by bears.

M4 Petit Jackson

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Ţănculeţul

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Ţănculeţul
Traseul lui Ionel

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila
Ţancul Ascuţit

Area is populated by bears.

Bucegi Massif Coștila Ţancul Ascuţit
7+ The Jack

Area is populated by bears.

2B Revelion '74

Area is populated by bears.

7- A0 Traseul Căţărătorului

The first pitch has the first protection 4 m above ground and it and ends with a traverse to the right on small pebbles. The second pitch traverses diagonally to the left.

9- Scări în Flăcări

Area is populated by bears.

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