접속점들 Mpumalanga에서

A few meters right and around the corner of Jahne's Slab project. Big flat block base. Follows the openbook left corner that starts desperately under some blocks and then moves into a thin thin overhanging crack with feet still on slab. Dont chicken out left Opened on gear.

Starts directly right of 'Double Dealings'. Climbs inside the fin, out onto the face following a crazy fine line of crimps in the perfect sequence to keep you shuffling your feet.

Fun flowing crack that looks really inviting. Climb it. Starts 4m right of 'Double Dealings', stepping across from the slab to begin. Opened on gear.

Climbs the intermittent crack system to the left of 'Supervixen'. Pull through the lower roof and follow the break between dark brown and orange rock until a wide rail just below the top of the cliff. Shares the anchors and a glass of whisky with 'Supervixen'

Climbs the crack system 8m right of a big block. This climb is found where the path rises to an enchanting platform.

Half way between 'Supervixen' and 'Surrender your Innocence' is a series of vertical cracks and blocky steps covered in moss. Start by climbing the large crack on the right briefly until it becomes too wide. Traverse left 2m and climb up to top out left of a small vegetated gully. Anchor on boulders quite far back but belay closer to the edge as comms is an issue. Beware of loose blocks!

When approaching from the Library, go past a jumble of rocks where a steep gully comes down the cliff. The route climbs the face just left of 'Cheap Thrill'

Starts in the chimney to the left of 'Time Bandit

This is a spectacular crack line on an arête that climbs up behind a yellow wood. Amazing climbing, a truly unique feature. Line is just to the right of Jeane's slab. Open on Gear

Big open-book with a large crack. Starts under a tiny roof and ends after a tiny roof. Opened on gear.

Starts as for 'Payola', sharing the first 2 bolts, then make your way right onto the arête for some balancy trippy toe tingling twisting.

50m from Narrow Gully. Start on the right hand side of a large roof at 2.5m. Climb the immaculate finger crack behind a yellowwood. Step right at the top of the crack to finish up a smooth looking face.

Starts just right of 'Golden Girls'. Follow the crimps into an orange ocean of sequential bliss.

Just to the right of 'Golden Girls'. The large crack that can swallow your body whole. #6 Cam makes it possible, #7 Cam makes it safe, smaller rack and you're on your own. Permission has been given to retro-bolt reducing grade dramatically.

Technical balancy short boulder problem that might keep you busy for longer than you bargained for. Can be done with 2 draws, extra 2 bolts are for working problem, midgets and kids. Carabiners at chains for quick escape. Easy after decyfering the sequence, impossible till then.

Technical thin powerful problem. A boulderer's route.

Arête on the right side of the obvious pillar. A technical fun fest. Bolts donated by MCSA.

Pull through the buldge to get to the finger licking goodness.

Climbs the secret corridor crack to some of the best jugs in Boven. Spicy.

This sector runs from the start of the lower tier crag once passing 'The Library' or finishing the descent of the gully. This means it runs all the way under the 'Corruption Crags' and along to the Mini Godno sector (small 30 degree face with rolling sloping jug rails. Past this (further left along the crag) is a bushwhack followed by The 'Hell Yeah Sector' that starts with a massive slab beginner section.

The sweet fun route on the left arete of the "mini godno".Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA

[trad, A] The leftmost line on the "mini Godno" wall. A 30 degree wall of rounded jug rail madness. Shares a starting platform with the indirect start of 'Tartarus' and potentially a line left of the arête. Starts in the large open book and rails out left to the jug on the corner following some trixyness and then big holds, bomber placements and crazy pump to make for a soon to be classic.. Shares anchors with 'Tartarus' and 'Elysium'.

[trad, A] On the mini Godno wall. The indirect start starts in the same open book as 'Valhalla' and rails out right. Pumpy powerful moves with bomber gear before it all goes down:D Mind blowing.

[N, A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of 'Tartarus', starting on the ledge right of the tree in between the two open book cracks. Starts as for 'Elysium' and busts straight up instead of heading right into the 'Elysium' open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves in between big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun.

[N, A] Starts on the ledge to the right of the tree. Busts over big blocks and then right into a tiny open book, followed by big sidepulls allowing for bomber gear placements before the pumpy jughauling madness and a pocket designed perfectly for a bomber red cam before facing the top mantle madness. A great thanks to the geckos that gave up their home. So much fun.

This line is a visual replica of the Blade Runner line in Mayhem. It's roughly 50m left(closer to deck) from the Mini Godno and directly left of 'Evan and Goliath'. Bouldery crimpy start traversing right into juggy, balancy crack and arête climbing.

Overhanging classic crimpy face with a full body action pact power endurance sequence. Right of 'Sisyphus'

This route was bolted because of the obvious triangular feature protruding from the rock. Not the usual Boven style. Unique puzzling phenomenon. Not for the conservatives.

Starts on a stack a few metres above the path. An unforgettable sequence of majestic mayhem passing a unique off width, visible from below, leading to a beautiful head wall of pure bliss.

This sector is located between the 'Corruption Crags' and The Mayhem entrance gully. It is situated on a lower tier. It has not been cleared to enter from the mayhem tier, so abseiling in or walking from the far deck side are the current ways in. Great potential for sport and trad climbing.

Situated on the left arête of the cove. Sling the tree and hope not to fly followed by great gear and amazing climbing. Permission has been given to bolt this line.

In the left corner of the cove. Crack line to the top. The line that drew development to the area. Very cool. Very well protected.

[trad,R] Climb the right arête of the cove from the tree base belay start. Make your way up intricate technical climbing, followed by great climbing and gear, sling the tree root, place gear in the arête and fly to the top on the juggy arête worrying about nothing but the climbing . Run out, but fun. Permission has been given to bolt.

[trad, A] Located left of the ominous tiny cave with hourglass shaped cracks above it. An overhanging crackline with really good holds making for some really good climbing. There is a thinner crack line on this same face to the right.

To the right of the tiny ominous cave. Line of big moves pulling left of big blocks to gain access to a head wall after a break, finishing on an arête that will leave you alone... dont flake it... dont yoyo...

The wall is very broken, but still solid. Incredible potential. Maybe a path linking the farend and the mayhem gully might be welcome.

Closest crag to the Tranquilitas Campsite making it very accessible. A good range of climbs from very easy to intermediate.

These slabs are located on the lower tier about 25m down left/east from the 'Als Bells Area' (which is 30m down from 'The Creche' – see more detailed notes in the 'Als Bells Area' & 'The Creche'). On the 1st slab you pass (only 10m down from 'Als Bells Area' corner) you will see 'Hot Spot' tagged. Follow cairns right under this slab (a bit exposed) and down east 20m to the central slab. 'Hellfire' is tagged in the middle.

Steep start 2m left of 'Bush Fire'.

Take your thinking cap - very technical and balancey. Starts up a crease 2m right of 'Smoke At Dawn' at 'Bush Fire'. Step up left after 4th bolt toward the arête to finish at 'Smoke At Dawn' anchors.

Tagged. Start at the crease. At 4th bolt, go straight up face into a tiny corner and the right hand anchors.

Starts up 'Bush Fire' at the tiny fig tree, break right across the corner at 4th bolt to join 'Bonfire'. Climb past the 1st anchors to the top.

Nice looking line but not that good. 2m right of 'Bush Fire' is a left facing corner. Up this keeping right of the bolts to avoid unnecessary difficulty. Climb to the overlap, passing the low anchors, left to the arête and up to anchors.

3m right of 'Bush Fire', tagged FLAMES. Steep start on big holds leads to a slab, then at the 4th bolt head a bit left up 'Bonfire' (past the lower anchors – 11/12 to here) to its anchors.

Tagged FLAMES. Up 'Flames At Sunrise' to the 4th bolt, then straight up through the left notch in the overhang. A fierce reach will find holds near the 1st anchors. Or continue up right 2 bolts to higher anchors.

Follow 'Flames Direct' through the notch. Just above the roof, step right then climb up to high anchors on the right.

2m right of FLAMES climb a short crack. Continue straight up to the right notch in the roof. Head up right to the 'Flames In The Sunset' finish. Variations are possible (eg left notch, 'Flames Direct', 'Bonfire')

6m right of FLAMES is another short crack at ground level above which is a very thin reachy slab: there is a temptation to use the cracks on either side. Go straight up to a break just left of the main slab past a large precarious-looking block to finish at 'Flames In The Sunset' anchors up and right. Harder after the worst block was removed.

1.5m right of the short crack of 'Daniel' (and 1m left of a big tree) climb the slab to the overlap, passing another short crack. Some very thin moves past 2 close bolts gain the upper slab, which eases off at another crack.

Tagged. Leading his people up the easiest way through this part of the cliff. Just right of the (lower) tree, scramble up to the 1st bolt. Head left on narrow ledges clipping bolts marked black on 4-5 routes. Go up and left past 1st anchors and left past the overhang to the 'Bonfire' anchors. Top rope to clean.

A great 1st lead into an exposed position. Follow 'Moses' to the 1st set of anchors below the last roof. Lower off before the Red Sea closes over you!

Or is it Dendrophile?! Easy start just right of the lower tree at 'Moses'. Straight up to the overlap, and clip a bolt high up left. Use the 2nd (left-leaning) tree to gain the slab. Follow cracks to the top.

The narrowing chimney right of the angled tree.

Close-spaced bolts to encourage all those budding trad climbers. The major corner/chimney 2 - 3m right of 'Steeple'.

On the left of a small cave 4m right of 'Chimney Stack' corner, move through the bulge on sharp holds past 3 closely spaced bolts. Then what?!

At the cave, pull the hanging arête on the right into the thin crack which widens to hand size.

The lefthand route with a shallow open book in the upper section. Finish up a short crack.

Tagged. The middle route with the crux just before the anchors. Perhaps 17 if you climb at the bolt above the roof; most go 1m left.

The arête on the right, starting 1m right of 'Hellfire'. Step right to crux after the last bolt.

Start in the short corner 4m right of 'Hellfire'. Climb the slab right of the arête, finishing up the same move as 'Inferno'.

Start off the track up to 'Als Bells', about 10m up right from 'Hellfire', 12m left of 'Hot Spot'. Climb up & left to gain the arête with some difficulty. Up this past the overlap to the anchors.

Start 5m right of 'Angular', off a small block deep in the chimney. Diagonally left out of the cleft and up to the anchors. The direct start (2 separate bolts) submits to some grunty technique at about 15 [**].

Start at a fig about 3m right of 'Burnout'. Diagonally right up to the easier ground. Up and left to the notched overhang and anchors.

Tagged. Sustained - this may be the best slab route under 22 at Boven. At a pocketed crack in the smooth slab, up to the overlap and pull through off a block.

This climb is 2-3m left of 'Als Bells' and perhaps 10m downhill on a west-facing slab. 2-3m right of 'Hotspot' there is a weakness up to the high 1st bolt; climb thinly to the anchors above the overlap.

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

At a lower level than the 8m gully, about 40m around to the left. Climb the corner crack with classic (traddy!) moves.

Start 1-2m left of the left hand crack, then follow it to anchors.

The right crack.

About 3m right of the cracks is a large right-facing corner.

5m right of the major corner, follow the bolts starting up a short corner. There is a 3 bolt variant start 2m left (starting 3m right of the corner).

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack. Opened on Trad. [ GPS: S25 40 30.6 E30 22 11.1]

Climb the arête/face just right of the 'When You Need It' corner.

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. Opened on trad

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of 'Als Bells'. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. Opened on trad

Climbs an arête up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of 'Respect For The Big Guy'. Opened on trad

Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of 'Soft Sabie Mark'. Opened on trad

The next right facing corner 10m right of 'Quack-Quack'.

Starts under the big roof just right of 'Squeeze Your Balls'. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an off-width above. Opened on trad

This lil number starts just left of 'The Huffing Warthog' and rails out to anchors at the ledge on the left arête of this beautiful face. Top rope to clean. Options: Climb the last part of 'Om te Pee en om te Poep'; or rap off. Another 2 anchors higher up await the enthusiastic boulderer who will tackle the arête.

[Anchors] The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors. Opened on trad

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. 'Milou' can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

Shares the 1st 3 bolts with 'Arielle'. Climb up left on the right hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m right of 'The Huffing Warthog'.

The extension of 'M J'. In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t climb it. Natural Anchor

Tagged. Major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by 'Arielle' on her 9th birthday. Climb to the anchors under the roof.

'Talia' Left hand Variant. Starting in the corner climb up right to the 2nd bolt on 'Talia' & up to the anchors 3m right of the major corner.

'Exodus' Left hand variation. Starts up 'Max' heading diagonally right, crosses 'Talia' & joins 'Exodus' on the long ledge. Finish up just left of the fig tree.

A longish traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at 'Max' in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at 'Exodus' 3rd bolt. Traverse right then diagonally right over a small fig to exit above 'Crouching Tiger'. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel.

Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can count. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally right (as for 'Bongo'). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse leftwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully down climb to the ground in the corner.

12 [20D] The extension of 'Max' along '1000000' (lower than DOUBT) traversing the whole slab to finish at the top of the arete at 'Kaj' anchors. Very cruisy so you can stop many times to admire the view onto the great red walls under the farmhouse. Can be climbed as 1 pitch (long draws may be useful) or broken into 2 pitches at the 3 bolt anchor of 'Max'.

The extension of MAX taking the high traverse of 'Doubt' to the 'Moaah' anchors near the arête. Clean on top rope.

Start 3m right of the major corner at a hard start. Straight up to the anchors shared with 'Dot'. Opened on her 13th birthday.

Starting 1m right of 'Talia' 1st bolt, climb up and right passing just left of a fig tree to anchors under the roof 6m from the major corner.

Using 'Return Of The Avatar' 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the 'Exodus' U-bolt anchors.

Gently scrambles up from left of the tree, heading diagonally right to easily accessible chains.

Starts a couple meters left of 'Milou', up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arête in the upper part of the cliff.

An extension of either 'Bob' or 'Milou' -- climb the striking arête near the top of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of 'Crouching Tiger'. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

Shorter and easier than 'Milou', stopping before the final crux head wall. Use the 3 bolt anchors to the right on 'Max', or the 2 bolt anchor on 'Don'.

A direct way to the 3 U-bolt 'Max' anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m left of 'Crouching Tiger' tree. After 4 U-bolts, trend right onto 'Crouching Tiger' crack.