Schöllenen Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Schöllenen 56 routes in Region

5 2 1 6 4 3

1 Schöllenen 2 Schöllenen boulders 3 Teufelsbrücke 4 Teufelstalwand 5 Teufelsstein 6 Eisklettergebiet Schöllenen

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

계절특성

볼더링, 스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: 46.658080, 8.589547

1.1. Schöllenen 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

모두 스포츠 클라이밍

Lat / Long: 46.657255, 8.580650

1.2. Schöllenen boulders 20 routes in Field

1 2 3 4

1 Boulder 1 2 Boulder 2 3 Boulder 3 4 Boulder 4

Summary:

모두 볼더링

Lat / Long: 46.657848, 8.583849

설명

Bouldering field located along the Reuss river. The field is located between two hairpin turns (north and south). There are parking spot at both turns, with the one at the south turn being the largest.

접근

5 minutes walk from the south or the north hairpin turns.

역사

Along the bouldering field you can find some elements of the old Gotthard Pass route, which was an important communication route between the north and the south of the Alps. More information here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gotthard_Pass#History

1.2.1. Boulder 1 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.658751, 8.584470

1.2.2. Boulder 2 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.657833, 8.584069

1.2.3. Boulder 3 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.657561, 8.583750

1.2.4. Boulder 4 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.657557, 8.583677

1.3. Teufelsbrücke 2 routes in Area

Summary:

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 46.647314, 8.589686

요약

Two short, but high quality routes, lead to an old footpath.

설명

Topo available here: https://www.rauchquarz.ch/images/topo_teufelswand.jpg or here: https://www.rauchquarz.ch/downloads/topo-teufelswand-schoellenen.pdf

접근

You can see the routes from the parking.

Parking: https://goo.gl/maps/Xmi3YyPUbyxwm2oF8

There is an old footpath (military use) to descend from the top.

1.4. Teufelstalwand 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

고전등반, 스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 암벽등반

Lat / Long: 46.649600, 8.595534

요약

Eindrückliche Wand mit hervorragenden Routen.

설명

Topos auf https://www.mybergtour.ch/teufelstalwand SAC Kletterführer; Uri excellence Plaisier Extrem Ost Kletterführer

접근 문제들

Hat ein Notausstieg

접근

Vom Bahnhof Nätschen in Richtung Teufelstalboden zum Ausstieg des "Diavolo" Klettersteigs. Dort weiter nach rechts zu einem Abseilstand in die Schlucht. 3X 40m abseilen (Seilverhänger möglich!).

Ausstieg: Alles dem Weg entlang, in der Felspartie hat es Fix Seile die den Weg markieren. Ein langer Anstieg bis zum obersten Plato, Weg mit Steinmanli markiert. Kleine Kletterpassage zwischen grossen Steinblöcke. Weg mit roten Markierung gekennzeichnet, immer nach links gehen. Genau schauen sonst kommt man vom Weg ab. Steile Passage wieder mit Fix Seile ausgerüstet. Weg geht bis zur Gütschstrasse Punkt: 2014

1.5. Teufelsstein 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

모두 볼더링

Lat / Long: 46.671526, 8.592964

설명

The Devil's Stone (Teufelsstein) is a large block of granite near Göschenen, with a height of c. 12 m and a mass of c. 220 tons. It is situated on the ramp of exit 40 (Göschenen) of the motorway, at the entrance of Gotthard Road Tunnel, visible both from the railway and from the motorway. Source Wikipedia

역사

In 1887, it was sold to the Maestrani Schweizer Schokoladenfabrik for 80 francs. Painted yellow, it now served as an advertisement for chocolate.

In 1923, there were plans to demolish it, but it was preserved on the initiative of Max Oechslin, president of Naturforschende Gesellschaft Uri.

In 1970, the Devil's Stone was again scheduled for destruction, to make way for the N2 motorway. This time, there was a broad movement to preserve it, and in 1971, federal authorities agreed to move the stone, with projected costs of 250,000 francs (of which the canton of Uri was to contribute 7,000). This led to a popular campaign opposing the plan because the cost was seen as excessive. The liberal newspaper Gotthard-Post proposed to spend the money on the construction of a retirement home instead, collecting 1,000 signatures in support. The cantonal government now argued that there was no legal basis for the destruction of the stone because it had been the property of Naturforschende Gesellschaft Uri since 1925. On 1 September 1972, the Federal Council finally agreed to moving the stone, and it was moved 127 metres in an operation costing CHF 335,000. Source Wikipedia

1.6. Eisklettergebiet Schöllenen 8 routes in Crag

2 1 3 5 4 6 7

1 Steinbruch 2 Steglauwi / Riental 3 Nirwana 4 Bobbis face 5 Reussfall 6 Suworov 7 Säule

Summary:

모두 빙벽등반

Lat / Long: 46.657273, 8.588423

1.6.1. Steinbruch 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.658816, 8.587092

접근

Vor der Heuegggalerie links Richtung "Chalchofen"

1.6.2. Steglauwi / Riental 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.665340, 8.595513

1.6.3. Nirwana 0 routes in Sector

1.6.4. Bobbis face 0 routes in Sector

1.6.5. Reussfall 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.650376, 8.587901

1.6.6. Suworov 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.647234, 8.592445

1.6.7. Säule 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.644910, 8.591107