등정들 Northern Sierra Nevada에서

I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.

You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum.

Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards.

This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point.

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Only the first pitch, mega fun, thinky and balancy

Don't do stupid gaston match. Go straight up, headed for chockstone jug.

Had a bash as I was up there, very physical

Tonne of fun

Awesome route, burly at the start.

Fun route to solo

Fun route

Fun, varied.

Lovely gentle climb

tronsight