North Cheyenne Canyon Guide

Starts on low angle terrain at the far left of the left side, follow bolts through steeper terrain.

Climbs the steep slab left of the prominent arete.

Climbs the prominent arete to the right of Cat Don't Piss on My Rope. Look for a high first bolt.

Climb the slot 20 ft up behind the spire to a high anchor.

From the top of the gully, follow the bolt line through a techy crux at about mid-height on the vertical section, then through gradually easing angle and difficulty to a two bolt anchor.

From the right side of the gully, clip a high bolt and follow more bolts up and left to a high anchor. Gear up to 1" can be placed prior to the high bolt.

Shares it's start with Psychedelic Unicorn Pony, but instead of trending left follows bolts up a nicely positioned arete to the right. Gear to 1" may be desirable below the first bolt.

About 60 feet left of Army Route, Kendlee can be identified by two bolts on the left wall of the short, right-facing dihedral at the top of the route. Currently the leftmost developed line on the Pinnacle's east aspect.

Climbs an arete about 20 feet right of Kendlee.

To the right of Corrugation Corner, climb a low angle slab to the first bolt above the horizontal crack and follow bolts to an anchor atop the arete.

Pitch 1 - Starts in the large open-book corner to the right of Minaret. Stay to the left of a roof and continue up and left to a belay ledge with a beefy anchor. (100 feet)

Pitch 2 - Head left from the anchor and locate a large crack. Look for the old Army rebar eyebolts heading up in the vicinity of the crack. Some of these are solid but others can be manky, so it's advisable to back them up with gear when possible. Follow roughly the line indicated by the eyebolts up a deteriorating face, moving slightly right until you can attain a large ledge with one fixed eyebolt. Build an anchor here. (150 feet)

Pitch 3 - From the large belay ledge, locate more eyebolts leading up to an obvious weakness in the roof overhead. Turn the roof on good rock and make a few more moves to a good belay ledge below the summit block. Either build an anchor here with good options or head up to the summit and resort to less than desirable anchor options. (65 feet)

Descent - Climb down the other side of the summit block and walk out onto the gravelly ridge below. From here you can descend east down the Tinseltown Gully or northwest down another gully. Both are loose and gravelly.

Bolted line to the right of the open book corner start of Army Route.

Pitch 1 - Start in a water streak with a bolt 5 feet above the horizontal crack. Clip 9 bolts to an anchor.

Pitch 2 - From the anchor head up and left past 4 more bolts (the first is hard to see) to another anchor.

Sustained climbing on decent rock to the right of Full Monte.

Great moderate sport route in beautiful and exposed setting; best in the canyon in this user's view. Anchor on ledge at top of first pitch are good enough; second belay is from a tree 15 ft. back from a ledge to climber's left before the top of the wall. Crux move comes at a small bulge in the second pitch. First pitch is a bit runout on easy ground. An excellent first multi-pitch lead, as the climbing is mighty fun and the anchors, when used thoughtfully, are bomber. Descent is down the back side through a gulley to the West.

Located on the South Buttress about 150' down the gully from the bolted routes at Tinseltown. Route follows a chimney and hand crack to a bolted anchor. Gear to 3"

To the right of South Buttress route. Follow bolt line to anchor.

About 150' up the gully from the South Buttress, this is the leftmost bolted line at Tinseltown. Liebacks lead to face moves as the route progresses.

Second route from the left at Tinseltown

Third route from the left at Tinseltown. Easily identified by a chain hanging from the first bolt.

To the right of Royal Wedding. Start in a small, right-facing corner to a loose layback. Then go right on good rock to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and climb to the anchor.

Rightmost route at Tinseltown. Start by climbing just right of a right-facing corner, then pull the small roof on the left to another roof just before the anchors.