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Fisher Towers Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Richard Pattison Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns Scott Godwin rick Adam Cufer J Hart Vince Romney Hard Landin' Brandon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Fisher Towers

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계절특성

68 routes in Crag

인공등반, 알파인 등반 그리고 other styles

Lat / Long: 38.723963, -109.296218

1.1. Carson's Tower

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 38.735307, -109.317970

설명

One of the lowest climbing grade desert towers, in the vicinity of Fisher Towers.

접근

Drive 1.6 miles up the dirt road towards Fisher Towers from highway 128 and park at a small pull-off on the left side of the road. It's large enough for 2 cars.

From the pull-off, an emerging trail leads directly to the tower staying mostly on high ground, crossing 3 washes on the way.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Carson's Tower

Climb from the east side, climb the easy but unprotected chimney between the 2 summits, the first gear placement is just below where the two summits bulge out and the chimney widens - you can place a BD #5 cam on the left, but better is a slung horn on the right.

Stem between the two towers past 2 drilled pitons. Then the crux - the 5.7 committing transition from stemming to the south tower with a good left hand hold around the arete, and drilled piton at feet. Exposed friction leads to the anchor, just below that actual summit.

The move up to the summit is unprotected, but a straightforward beached whale move ;o)

FA: Mark Whiton, 1995

5.7 I 혼합 고전등반 52ft, 2

1.2. Lizard Rock

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계절특성

3 routes in Area

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 38.725084, -109.307754

접근

Park at the Fisher Towers parking lot, Lizard Rock is just 1 minute away from the pit toilets.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Entry Fee

Well known for being run-out, but with careful consideration can actually be protected fairly well.

Start at the south-west (parking lot side) of the tower. Climb crack (cams) to flake (cams) and a mantle. Up to the base of summit block with large horizontal flake, you can protect with BD #3 & #4 at the base of the flake and extend over the lip with slings. Step up and right, possible to sling a small dinner plate with prussic cord, then slightly overhung jugs to rappel chain. Hidden pockets on the summit to help with the mantle.

FA: Harvey T Cartrer & Annie S Carter, 1962

5.8 I R 전통등반 60ft
2 Leapin' Lizards

Often top-roped after climbing Entry Fee.

Start just left of Entry Fee, climb the crack (nut placement) to a bolt, then move right to join and finish on Entry Fee at the large horizontal flake / base of summit block.

FA: Ed Webster & Patrick Griffin, 1984

5.10a I R 전통등반 65ft
3 Entry Lizards 5.9 I R 전통등반 65ft

1.3. Dock Rock

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계절특성

4 routes in Area

알파인 등반, 인공등반 그리고 암벽등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Look See 5.7 I 알파인 80ft
2 Dock Rock Variation 5.8 미상 80ft
3 Impish 5.4 I 알파인 80ft
4 Smash 5.8 A4 I 인공 80ft

1.4. Great Googley Moogley

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 알파인 등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Googley Moogley 5.10+ I 알파인 100ft

1.5. Putterman's Pile

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beyond The Valley Of The Putterman

FA: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns & Jesse Harvey, 1996

5.8 A1 I 인공 100ft

1.6. Rocky Top

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tuktoolong

FA: Jesse Harvey, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns & Mike Baker, 1996

5.7 A1 I 인공 80ft

1.7. Dunce Rock

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계절특성

2 routes in Area

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 38.727408, -109.307594

요약

Close to the parking lot, but poor rock quality, even for the Fishers. The north face route offers a good easy introduction to aid climbing.

접근

From campsite #3 at the Fisher Towers parking lot, walk east 100m to an obvious junction in the creek/arroyo. Walk up the left fork which is guarded by a large bush at the junction. Work your way out to the left and up to Dunce Rock. 5-10 mins from the parking lot.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Face

First climbed solo by Harvey T Carter who said "it's the obvious route on the north side of the tower".

Well, there are obvious zig-zag ledges, but the final 20ft is guarded by vertical poor rock. There is now a 4 bolt (drilled piton) ladder to aid on, placed by Joe Forrester in 2007 to finish their route that started on the south face. There is a rappel station on the shoulder just under the summit block.

FA: Harvey T Carter, 1970

5.8 A0 I 혼합 고전등반 100ft, 4
2 Jam A Crack

Some of the worst rock you will ever climb on. Climb the obvious wide crack at the western edge of the formation to a shoulder under the overhanging summit. On the first ascent the summit was lassoed for an aid finish, there is now a 3 bolt ladder moving left across poor rock/mud to surmount the final obstacle. There is a rappel station below the summit block.

FA: Harvey T Carter & Dave Erickson, 1971

5.8 A0 I 전통등반 100ft

1.8. Forming Tower

Summary:

2 routes in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Runaway Crack 5.8 A2+ IV 인공 330ft
2 Full Metal Jackoff 5.7 A3 III 인공 330ft

1.9. Fine Endeavor

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fine Endeavor 5.8 A1 III 인공 200ft

1.10. Dragon's Tail Rock

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dragon's Tail Rock 5.8 A3 IV 인공 250ft

1.11. King Fisher

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계절특성

6 routes in Area

모두 인공등반

Lat / Long: 38.722552, -109.302369

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Colorado Ridge / Northeast Ridge 5.8 C2 IV 인공 500ft
2 Walker-Forrest Variation 5.10 A2 I 인공 100ft
3 Death Of American Democracy 5.9 A4+ V 인공 700ft
4 Jagged Edge 5.9 A4 V 인공 700ft
5 Hazing 5.8 A3+ V 인공 700ft
6 Dead Again 5.10 A4 V 인공 700ft

1.12. Ancient Art

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계절특성

7 routes in Area

인공등반, 알파인 등반 그리고 고전등반

Lat / Long: 38.721615, -109.304053

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Summit - Hippie Route 5.10+ IV 알파인 500ft
2 Middle Summit - Purebread 5.10 A2 IV 인공 500ft
3 Baker Variation 5.10 A0 III 인공 500ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Stolen Chimney / Corkscrew Summit

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

  1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

  2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

  3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

  4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

FA: Paul Sibley & Bill Roos 1969

5.10 혼합 고전등반 310ft, 4, 12
5 Corkcrew To Middle Summit Variation 5.10- III 알파인 80ft
6 Corkscrew Summit - Continuation Variation 5.10 III 알파인
7 Kient Art - Adjacent Art 5.8 A3 III 인공 500ft

1.13. Minotaur

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Minotaur 5.9 C2 IV 인공 500ft

1.14. The Cobra

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 고전등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Cobra 5.11 I 전통등반 40ft

1.15. Sundial

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 알파인 등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sundial 5.9 I 알파인 20ft

1.16. H.J. Pinnacle

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 H.J. Pinnacle 5.7 A3 I 인공 90ft

1.17. High Roller

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Roller 5.8 A1 I 인공 50ft

1.18. Large Marge

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 My Cleanest Dirty Shirt

FA: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns & Jon Butler, 1996

5.5 C1 I 인공 100ft

1.19. Echo Tower

Summary:

8 routes in Area

Mostly 인공등반

Lat / Long: 38.720251, -109.301006

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Phantom Sprint 5.9 C3 IV 인공 450ft
2 North Chimney 5.9 A2+ IV 인공 550ft
3 Carter Variation 5.8 I 알파인 150ft
4 Hera's Scorn 5.9 A3+ VI 인공 570ft
5 Emotional Graffiti 5.9 A4 V 인공 660ft
6 Deadman's Party 5.10 A5 VI 인공 630ft
7 Tapeworm 5.8 A3 VI 인공 630ft
8 Run Amok 5.9 A3+ V 인공 630ft

1.20. Cottontail Tower

Summary:

6 routes in Area

모두 인공등반

Lat / Long: 38.719676, -109.302262

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 West Side Story 5.9 C3 VI 인공 850ft
2 Road Kill 5.9 A4 V 인공 750ft
3 Not So Soft 5.8 A3+ VI 인공 600ft
4 Brer Rabbit

This route climbs the great west-facing blade of rock that constitutes the west most arete of Cottontail. It starts directly off the Titan Trail. It climbs that arete for three pitches then meanders up walls and edges to the top. (Luke, John and I climbed most of this route in 1994, but we ran out of time for the last couple of pitches. The nailing on the first few pitches is pretty sketchy requiring a lot of sawed-offs. The sawed-offs we had were clearly barely in the holes that constitute the route.)

FA: Ed Webster & Solo, 1978

5.11b A3+ VI 인공 850ft
5 Intifada 5.10 A6 VI 인공 850ft
6 Twister rat

FA: David Palmada & Joan Gibert, 2023

FR:6a A5 인공 1100ft

1.21. Gypsy Eyes

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gypsy Eyes 5.10 A3 I 인공

1.22. Gypsy Joker

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gypsy Joker 5.8 A0 I 인공

1.23. Titan

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계절특성

10 routes in Area

모두 인공등반

Lat / Long: 38.717501, -109.299326

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Finger Of Fate 5.8 A2+ IV 인공 900ft
2 Finger Of Fate Variation 5.12 C3 IV 인공 900ft
3 Finger Of Fate Direct 5.8 A3 IV 인공 900ft
4 Finger Of Fate Gendarme 5.4 A1 인공 60ft
5 Wasteland 5.9 A3+ VI 인공 900ft
6 Scheherazade 5.9 A4 VI 인공 900ft
7 Sidekick - Campflower 5.10 A3 III 인공 240ft
8 Naked Lunch 5.10 A4 VI 인공 900ft
9 Sundevil Chimney 5.9 A3+ VI 인공 850ft
10 World's End 5.9 A5 VI 인공 900ft

1.24. Oracle

Summary:

2 routes in Area

모두 인공등반

Lat / Long: 38.719841, -109.297863

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fantasia 5.10 A2 VI 인공 590ft
2 Beaking In Tongues 5.8 A4 VI 인공 720ft

1.25. Broadsword Rock

Summary:

2 routes in Area

인공등반 그리고 알파인 등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Southwest Face 5.5 II 알파인 230ft
2 Northern Blade 5.10 A0 II 인공 230ft

1.26. Projects

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계절특성

1 route in Area

모두 인공등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Olde English 800

The unique tower is below the Titan Trail and is actually a butte with a large section missing (making it technically an arch—-although the arch is a pitch off the ground). The route starts up the southeast side and climbs a pitch to the arch, then a second pitch through the top of the arch. It’s a pretty cool climb and reportedly goes free at 5.11.

FA: Jon Butler & Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns, 1996

5.7 A1 II 인공 120ft

1.27. Top of the World Overlook Area

Summary:

1 route in Area

모두 알파인 등반
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cooler Than Jesus 5.10a II 알파인

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.4 A1 Finger Of Fate Gendarme 인공 60ft 1.23. Titan
5.4 I Impish 알파인 80ft 1.3. Dock Rock
5.5 C1 I My Cleanest Dirty Shirt 인공 100ft 1.18. Large Marge
5.5 II Southwest Face 알파인 230ft 1.25. Broadsword Rock
5.7 A1 I Tuktoolong 인공 80ft 1.6. Rocky Top
5.7 A1 II Olde English 800 인공 120ft 1.26. Projects
5.7 A3 I H.J. Pinnacle 인공 90ft 1.16. H.J. Pinnacle
5.7 A3 III Full Metal Jackoff 인공 330ft 1.8. Forming Tower
5.7 I Carson's Tower 혼합 고전등반 52ft, 2 1.1. Carson's Tower
Look See 알파인 80ft 1.3. Dock Rock
5.8 Dock Rock Variation 미상 80ft 1.3. Dock Rock
5.8 A0 I Jam A Crack 전통등반 100ft 1.7. Dunce Rock
North Face 혼합 고전등반 100ft, 4 1.7. Dunce Rock
Gypsy Joker 인공 1.22. Gypsy Joker
5.8 A1 I Beyond The Valley Of The Putterman 인공 100ft 1.5. Putterman's Pile
High Roller 인공 50ft 1.17. High Roller
5.8 A1 III Fine Endeavor 인공 200ft 1.9. Fine Endeavor
5.8 A2+ IV Runaway Crack 인공 330ft 1.8. Forming Tower
Finger Of Fate 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.8 A3 III Kient Art - Adjacent Art 인공 500ft 1.12. Ancient Art
5.8 A3 IV Dragon's Tail Rock 인공 250ft 1.10. Dragon's Tail Rock
Finger Of Fate Direct 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.8 A3 VI Tapeworm 인공 630ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.8 A3+ V Hazing 인공 700ft 1.11. King Fisher
5.8 A3+ VI Not So Soft 인공 600ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.8 A4 I Smash 인공 80ft 1.3. Dock Rock
5.8 A4 VI Beaking In Tongues 인공 720ft 1.24. Oracle
5.8 C2 IV Colorado Ridge 인공 500ft 1.11. King Fisher
5.8 I Carter Variation 알파인 150ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.8 I R Entry Fee 전통등반 60ft 1.2. Lizard Rock
5.9 A2+ IV North Chimney 인공 550ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.9 A3+ V Run Amok 인공 630ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.9 A3+ VI Hera's Scorn 인공 570ft 1.19. Echo Tower
Sundevil Chimney 인공 850ft 1.23. Titan
Wasteland 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.9 A4 V Jagged Edge 인공 700ft 1.11. King Fisher
Emotional Graffiti 인공 660ft 1.19. Echo Tower
Road Kill 인공 750ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.9 A4 VI Scheherazade 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.9 A4+ V Death Of American Democracy 인공 700ft 1.11. King Fisher
5.9 A5 VI World's End 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.9 C2 IV Minotaur 인공 500ft 1.13. Minotaur
5.9 C3 IV Phantom Sprint 인공 450ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.9 C3 VI West Side Story 인공 850ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.9 I Sundial 알파인 20ft 1.15. Sundial
5.9 I R Entry Lizards 전통등반 65ft 1.2. Lizard Rock
5.10- III Corkcrew To Middle Summit Variation 알파인 80ft 1.12. Ancient Art
5.10a I R Leapin' Lizards 전통등반 65ft 1.2. Lizard Rock
5.10a II Cooler Than Jesus 알파인 1.27. Top of the World Overlook Area
6a A5 Twister rat 인공 1100ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.10 Stolen Chimney 혼합 고전등반 310ft, 4, 12 1.12. Ancient Art
5.10 A0 II Northern Blade 인공 230ft 1.25. Broadsword Rock
5.10 A0 III Baker Variation 인공 500ft 1.12. Ancient Art
5.10 A2 I Walker-Forrest Variation 인공 100ft 1.11. King Fisher
5.10 A2 IV Middle Summit - Purebread 인공 500ft 1.12. Ancient Art
5.10 A2 VI Fantasia 인공 590ft 1.24. Oracle
5.10 A3 I Gypsy Eyes 인공 1.21. Gypsy Eyes
5.10 A3 III Sidekick - Campflower 인공 240ft 1.23. Titan
5.10 A4 V Dead Again 인공 700ft 1.11. King Fisher
5.10 A4 VI Naked Lunch 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
5.10 A5 VI Deadman's Party 인공 630ft 1.19. Echo Tower
5.10 A6 VI Intifada 인공 850ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.10 III Corkscrew Summit - Continuation Variation 알파인 1.12. Ancient Art
5.10+ I Great Googley Moogley 알파인 100ft 1.4. Great Googley Moogley
5.10+ IV North Summit - Hippie Route 알파인 500ft 1.12. Ancient Art
5.11b A3+ VI Brer Rabbit 인공 850ft 1.20. Cottontail Tower
5.11 I The Cobra 전통등반 40ft 1.14. The Cobra
5.12 C3 IV Finger Of Fate Variation 인공 900ft 1.23. Titan
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