A kinda trickier start, but gives way to some wonderfully frictiony stemming. Good gear throughout. Topped out by going through the tiny cave at the top, pretty interesting manoeuvres. Not too hard, lot of fun.
Due to time constraints, I chose to start up West Chimney, then stepped left into the flake proper. The slab moves at the top keeps your head in the game!
Followed this back in October 2021, today I lead this as my first ever trad lead. Took ages to find the right placements, but I made it up there cleanly. Still a nice climb.
Nice, but feels harder than 5.10b. Very hard slab move at the bottom. Before first bolt you need to be brave. Built first traditional anchor at the top
Could not do the one move when going from last good hold of the flake to the crack. The move exactly was matching the right hand into the crack. Did not try very long though. For next time, try switching feet first and jamming left hand more so that I am already turned in when matching right hand.
Very nice sport route, not super hard. Some friends and nuts for the top are helpful. I climbed it with the first quick draw already clipped, because I wasn't so sure if I could clip from the first good hold.
Very cool looking easy climb on protruding blocks. The climb back down to the ground by another route (there is no anchor) looks quite scary from above.
Turned left on the last ledge and climbed a nice thin handscrack which was easier to climb without any jamming (this last part was not the route indicated in the topo)
Maybe a bit too hard for the second trad route, but we got to the top (actually even without falling or resting on the rope). Starts with a chimney and an offwidthcrack, where protections can only be placed relatively far apart if you don't have cams above size 3. After that, there is the flake after which the route was named and it gets easier. Finishes with a relatively easy slab with two bolts which are about 5 meters apart. Anchor is on the other side of the rock.
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