San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jim Olsen Fritz Devendorf Campbell Gome Bernii Jason Halladay Simon Dale

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1. San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks 1 in Crag
- 1.1. Cabezon Peak 1 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks 1 route in Crag

Summary:

계절특성

모두 고전등반

Lat / Long: 36.144959, -107.966183

요약

These are volcanic necks occurring on the southeast and west portions of the San Juan Basin

설명

The San Juan Basin covers the northwest portion of New Mexico north of I-20.

접근 문제들

Most of this area is on the Navajo Reservation. Many potential climbs are on "Sacred Lands" and supposedly off limits. Some can be accessed with permission because there are different levels of sacredness involved. Getting permission can be a time consuming activity. Cabezon has a high class 3 hike up the backside, is on BLM property, and needs no permission.

1.1. Cabezon Peak 1 route in Crag

Summary:: Lat / Long: 35.599441, -107.095424

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Mad Hatter's Tea Party Cabezon is a volcanic plug. Start south side of Cabezon about 40' west of end of barbed wire fence. Ascend small sized fluted rock finally going over a few ledges, or ascend about 20' on fluted face next to wall on right. The next to last ledge is full of Cacti. Belay at ledge above it. You will have about 1 foot of rope left over on a 60 meter rope (first pitch 5.5). Climb upward until you come to steeper cliffs and continue to the left over blocky boulders and ledges to a ledge on the skyline buttress (second pitch 5,6). You may want to break the second pitch into two to avoid rope drag. In front of you is a very wide (8' or so) chimney. Climb the textured bottom of the chimney, exiting to the right about halfway up and continue straight upward among the mushroom shaped blocks. Set belay in an alcoved ledge. Only tricams hold well here in odd shaped pockets. Continue up and leftward for an easy partial pitch to the top (more aesthetically pleasing route 5.5) It's three and a quarter pitches. Alternatively you may follow the textured rock to the top (easier, but not as cool.) Use standard rack to #2 or #3 Camalots. Carry up to #2 or #2.5 tricams for belay site protection on the aesthetic variation. Descend on 3rd class+ trail on opposite side of the volcanic plug, being careful not to get off route. FA: Jim Olsen & Fritz Devendorf, 2006	5.6	전통등반 470ft

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5.6		★	Mad Hatter's Tea Party	전통등반 470ft		1.1. Cabezon Peak