루트들 Utah에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

The first route on the left with huge huecos up to the first anchor. Find nice rest positions and pull big holds all the way up.

The line in the orange part of the wall with big huecos. One jug bigger than the other - find an awesome rest in a big hole!

Almost vertical line on the left side

Climb a slabby block to thin hands, slowly widening to thinish hands inside a flare. Final 15m is hands to wide-hands. Chain anchor.

Cams: 0.5-3.0

Classic route on the southern end of The Rectory.

Same anchor as 245 North

A masterpiece with a glue in bolt as second bolt

Start on top of a pillar - hands in a left facing corner.

Sit start with big jug. Move up mini-roof on jugs and mantle on slopers and crimps. Be careful when topping out.

Thin twin crack system.

Cams: 0.3-2 Chain anchors

Solid 10+ climbing using tension moves and solid crimps to pull roof.

To the right of a prominent pillar, climb over a large wedged chockstone and into the ever thinning corner

Outside the cave, up the hill on the right. Fantastic quality slab.

Shares start with Brown on Butter. Scramble up the block to an awesome crack. Gear: 0.75 to 6, heavy on 4

Washer Woman Tower is named so because it looks like a woman bent over an old fashion wash tub doing laundry. The route seeks suds up the Southwest face then climbs straight up the woman's head to one of the most spectacular summits in the desert.

In Search of Suds is a very high quality climb with good rock, wild exposure and an amazing view. The adventure has only begun once you reach the summit.

The route begins on the right side of the Southwest face, there are several ways to get there. It is best to begin the route from the saddle between Washer Woman and Monster Tower. The best approach is from the South via steep talus slopes.



Approach pitch; scramble up to saddle and base of corner system.

Pitch 1:5.10, 85 feet. Start up hand crack in a corner, over a bulge. Continue up corner system and belay at a bolt anchor with slings. You should be able to see daylight through a small eye piercing the tower.

 This pitch can be linked with the next with a 70m rope and some long runners to reduce drag.

Pitch 2 5.10, 90 feet. Climb up to an airy stance near the Eye and sling a chockstone for pro before moving into the crack left of the eye. Make some 5.9 moves and continue up to easier climbing in the crack above. Pass an offwidth section (#5 Camelot makes this a little nicer, though not necessary) and traverse under small rooflet on sloping holds and onto the belay ledge. Belay at 3 bolt anchor with slings below a roof.



Pitch 3: 5.10+, 70 feet. From the comfortable belay ledge move directly right and into a good hand/fist crack or left on chalky crimps. Power through the roof with decent gear and make one more move up and right to a stance and easier climbing to ledge and ridge line. Gear belay.

Pitch 4: 5.6, 70 feet. Traverse along the ridge towards the summit and belay where it steepens. This can be combined with the next pitch (recommend sound understanding of gear and rope systems if doing this).

Pitch 5: 5.9, 20 feet. Face climb a short steep section with an old pin, Belay at bolt anchor on large ledge below final headwall.

Pitch 6: 5.10+, 80 feet. Face climb up past some loose rotten bands (5.9R) to a beautiful black varnished face with four drilled pitons. Face climb on small holds up and past the bolts to a mind blowing summit and belay at bolt anchor.

 At time of description edit, summit register contained a pencil and 2 condoms.

Rap down from summit block to ledge. Descent: 2 70m two-rope rappels from ledge below summit block Rap 1: Rappel through the arch! Carefully thread anchors just over the edge of the South side and make a wild free hanging rappel down the face to a set of rap chains an arms length out from corner system. Getting over the edge to start this rappel is tricky and way spooky. This is one of the most incredible rappels in the world. Be very careful of loose rock when you pull the ropes after this rap.



Rap 2: down corner system to ground.

Starts in the corner right of Charlie's Pillar (about where the approach trail hits the wall). Shares the start with Hayutake.