★★ Tyrannosaurus Rex {AU} V5

The Waimea testpiece. Start on a couple of opposing flat shelves and climb up on good pockets until you hit the overhang. Tricky footwork and a couple of small crimps allow a big move to a painful diagonal pocket. (There's another, smaller pocket to the left of it for your other hand.) Pull up and left to gain some good, sharp jugs. Top out.