루트들 World에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

This is the right side of the arete and is the best easy route at Dams Cliff with wonderful ironstone jugs. Carrots all the way to the top which requires a rappel or a walk-off...or very long extended top rope rigging.

Start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW.

Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

2 metres right of Mañana. Long, easy, and popular.

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

Nice climbing following an impressive and distinctive feature.

Start: At the base of the obvious aplite dyke sweeping the cliff.

Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.

1. 40m (12) Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, traverse delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner. Small gear essential to protect this pitch.

2. 25m (12) Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower.

3. 30m (12) Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

Start on the face 2m right of 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go.

Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).

1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

2. 6m (-) Up the chimney.

3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.

1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements.

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face.

Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Be careful not to climb too high in the chimney or you'll find yourself above the anchor.

Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress.

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics!

Nice jamming up the central crack

1. 25m (feels a bit harder than 12.) Note: 1 guidebook says 20 metres, another says 28m, somewhere in between? Up to ledge, then up a bit further before moving left to where you'll see two carrots - one old and manky, the other slightly less so. Often a wet streak just above. Continue up to a stance at right end of obvious horizontal breaks. Good trad anchor here. Older guidebooks say there's bolt belay but we didn't see one.

2. (10m). Awesome traverse with great gear and easy climbing to massive ledge and trad belay.

3. (24m). Up the wall behind the distinctive horns to trad belay at top.

Descent: Follow foot pad to descent gully and rap anchor above 'Island Cruise'

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

Up the crack 2m Right of 'Execution' to broken blocks at the top.

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Obvious crack line heading up to the tree at left end of wall, DRBB at top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to top

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

Up the obvious corner.

Starts in front of a large marri, mantle to the shelf.

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

Right of Lazy Lizards

Up slab left of Honk On.

Long, serious route, despite the modest grade. Route follows left side of ridge. Harder variants to the right side. Six hours (minimum) of climbing plus two hours (minimum) abseiling down.

Classic. The obvious wide corner crack.

Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around).

Either step R to the lower-offs of adjacent routes, or go to tree belay at the top then walk out to the road.

Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky"

1. 18m (12) Bridge the 8m of Oxbow to the chockstone. Step off and climb the L wall moving to near the arete. Select pockets carefully then pull over the bulge to a large ledge and bolt belay.

2. 12m (11) Climb the face just R of the prominent crack-line in the wall above to a big ledge.

3. 45m (7) Up the arete/rib on the L (as for Oxbow) , for 15m to Oxbow's small 2nd belay stance. Pull over the little bulge above and scramble easily to the summit of the Omega block. Descend - scrambling down the juggy NE arete/blocks or rap-off RH side bolts (see details in Omega Block)

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of Big Flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

The second route as you walk in, located on the slab used by pesky abseilers. Bolted for the beginner leader and for the short (or more accurately a six year olds height.)

The left tending crack. Has a set of anchors over the bulge at the top on a nice ledge.

As usual CB commandeered the blunt end for this "extreme" piece of climbing.

Start 9m R of 'Brutus'.

The L corner.

Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground.

Marked 'AL'. Good easy crack climbing up a nice groove.

Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G.

Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo.

Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly.

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

Start: Left of arête, marked. Straight up past very little protection.

Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high.

This good combination gives another way to approach the nice overhang on Manx. Some people prefer Manx RHV and others prefer this.

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top.

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams.

(1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave.

(2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil.

The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress.

The obvious chimney. Most people belay on spacious ledge above the huge chockstone.

This route is so short that it's very hard to justify uncoiling a rope and racking up. If you must, blast up the corner for about 2 moves!

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

#beginners

The obvious flake, equipped for Sport climbing since April 2021.

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).

2. 18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.

Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).

1. 30m 12. Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory, eventually stepping left to rap anchor on ledge.

2. 20m 11. Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

Up featured face right of small high cave to shared anchors

2m R of Flat Battery. A sandbagged bouldery, slabby route. In other words a mega classic! Retro'd with 3 FH and chains.

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

You can practice a multipitch belay on this one.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left one and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. There are now anchors at the top for lowering off.

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge with belay chains.

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

3 bolts to DBB below roof.

Up to 2nd bolt, move left to arete and follow to lower-offs. A direct finish following the bolts is harder than the grade 11 or 12.

Rechts in der Südseite auf Absatz, dann rechts der Rippe folgen. An derem Ende über Reibungswand zum Gipfelaufbau.

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

Line of U’s up easy slabs, solid rock good confidence climbing for the kids, can easily top out so use as an access climb if required