线路 in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

Short and punchy. A main crux hold broke off in about 2005. It is now about 26-27.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

Stand start and up the right side of the shield using slopers.

Sit start right of Raw Beauty and throw to the incut or alternatively, use thumb press to progress. Need a big reach.

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

Brilliant line on superb orange rock. Originally done with old couch cushions and a swag for mats!

Sit start in crack on 2 finger jams and jam/layback up crack to some proper palm jamming up top.

Sit start variant of Razoback starting both hands on shark tooth.

Contrived technical sit start to Razoback starting left hand edge, right hand shark tooth.

Climb Razoback and complete 360deg lap around bloc via Stile on the KB side.

Sit start to Pistol Squish using small crimps and a big foot out left if you want it.

The low stand start to 'Easy Way Out' from the poor underclings. Up from a very hard move to top out from underclings onto the rail. You can move to the intermediate pinchy grip and it's about a 5 or pull yourself in close to the boulder and huck a big throw and it's a soft 6. The only climb I'm going to name here that doesn't have a satirical theme.

Sit start at left of cave, move along the low line to the far right, finishes out of the mini cave. Many varients open for other 'scends. The first line sent in Saturns Forge, 22 May 2010, zjparer.

Up the drillhole jugs to a committing finish

Start as for 'Dragon's Den' then traverse left along the bottom lip holds joining into 'Lower Cave B'. The bottom ledge is off.

Sit start with LH on crimp under the roof and RH on crimp on the right face of the arete. Tricky first move to the set of 3 crimps then easy until the bulging topout sequence ramps it up a notch. Right wall is off

Just left of the corner. Right wall is not in.

The right end of the wall. Sit start on a low rail with back wall out for feet. Bust out to small left hand edge and make your way up to the jug. Drop off, has the opportunity to top out.

Same sit start as BNPOC but head straight up. Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cz0YRlaPpY4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out.

Start as for Obiwan' finish as for Kimono.

Climb Traverse The Apricot moving straight into (no dawdling!) and finishing via Pip & The Apricot's Arete.

Start as for Roofed Boulder Traverse finishing via Tw'oofed.

Sit start at very bottom end of worm hole (cave). Writhe, grovel and squirm your way towards the light without dabbing. Take a headlamp. *This little low-ball ripper is also Gara's 1000th logged route.

The steep arete from a sit. Follow the line of good crimps and sidepulls to a big move to the lip. The foot block to the left is out.

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business.

Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

Superb rock and nice face climbing. Starts 2m R of SJ follow the thin R leaning line up the wall staying approx 2m R of SJ the whole way.

Steep with a difficult move to reach the lip. Start as for OE or LWF and climb either of these for the first 5m before stepping onto the arête. Follow this to the first roof, step R under this, up a move then a hard move out L to the lip. Finish up the face to the lower off on OE below the death choss at top.

Very thin and technical arete into some crack technique to topout. 4 FH to DBB.

Start as per MYM, after first bolt head straight up on very small holds. Must topout to earn grade.

Seam 3 m left of big roof, stick clip high first bolt. Offset wire blue DMM, #0.75 cam and micro cam needed before crack closes. Continue up groove through small roof up high

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

The route 1m to the right of the overhanging crack with the small fig tree growing out of it.

Bolted by Mike Peck back in the day, rebolted and sent in 22. Climbs the pillar 2m right of Soolaiman, starting from the ledge at 8m past 6 or so bolts.

The Trad start would be a worthy extension in a different style.

The step shaped crack 40m right of 'Scaramouche'.

Thin climbing up the dyke. An old top-rope project, lead bolted by Chris Warner.

Hard... It was crushed into submission. The overhanging crack on the boulder downhill from the cave, and right of the final 'Little Hermes' belay, with fingerlocks, hand jams and barndooring layaways.

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts. DBB.

A climb of two contrasting styles. Up the arete right of CKS. Bouldery start.

The orange arete right of BA and left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over rooflet. Start with the first one or two bolts clipped.

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak; follow the crack up through two more bulges.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

An excellent route and worth the walk down the ridge

Superb arete and roof. Crimpy number.

Amazing dynamic climbing. It's on from the get go.

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

Funk your way up the chimney to ledge passing halfway anchor and then bust right on some great moves up high.

If you can look past the reinforced and too-good-to-be-true holds there is some excellent steep cranking to be had. Start at the tree stump.

Killer jug slapping up the blocks after a delicate face climb start. Was 25 until a hold broke making the crux alittle longer and harder.

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barten to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Up 'Little Bad Girl', then branch out right onto the face. Good moves and a cool crux. Mostly fun moves on good holds and crap feet.

Up 'Watching Every Move' and traverse right after the crux, crossing 'Little Bad Girl'. Excellent sustained pumper climbing that is rare in Canberra!!!

A fun and obvious link up.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' to the 7th bolt, then climb up and left into 'La Corona' for its last 2 bolts culminating with the spicy arête boulder problem to the anchors.

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

Start off boulder 5m right of SFH. Thin bouldery start leads to pockets and a technical crux. Tend right at last bolt then up to the anchors just under break. The rock on this route is very grampiansesque ie fine grained and as solid as sandstone comes

Start 3m right of SFH start. Up through undercut and into groove. Continue up through bulge then tend right to the anchor as for CS but don’t stop here. Continue above anchor tending right into shallow corner and up to the top of the cliff if you can still hold on.

As for SS, then follow hangers thru thin white wall on right.

Starts under thin orange streak. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up to break. Head left through bulge to gain pockets. Traverse right then crank up orange streak to final bulge and anchors.

Steep wall to unusual finish. 4 bolts to chain anchor.

Flakes and edges

Through the roof to a sustained overhang. May need a supplemental thread

Rap into the 'Continuum' cave, and then a further rap down the orange wall to the right-hand belay. Up pumpy orange wall then through bulge to cave.

1. 15m (26) 9 bolts to ledge.

2. 25m (22) Same as 'Continuum' pitch 2.

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires. A second blue camalot (or a big hex) makes the first pitch more comfortable, but you won't need it higher up.

1. 25m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

2. 35m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge. Ignore the line of bolts that goes up about halfway through the traverse

3. 40m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

6. 25m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

This route starts 5 pitches up the wall! Best accessed by climbing all of Iron Curtain, then pitch six of Screaming Tribesman. Asteroids starts at this belay.

1. 30m (26) Climb directly up off the belay following 6 Us and 5 old fixed hangers to a two U bolt belay on foot ledge. The route follows some of the steepest terrain and huge orange tufa. By far some of the best climbing in the gorge at any grade. The initial three bolts is the crux but the whole pitch is very pumpy and sustained too! Well protected and easy to aid at 22/A1.

2. 35m (16) Traverse straight left for about 20m (passing a set of double FIXE hangers at about 10m before heading into vegetation), then staying close to the wall down climb a 5m corner, passing two FIXE hangers. Keep traversing left for another 10m along ledge looking for the double U bolt belay. To protect the second for the downclimb it's possible for them to clip the fixed biner on the top hanger and re-thread once on the ledge.

3. 30m (20) Climb past two FIXE hangers to a ledge the continue on rings to the double U bolt belay on a pleasant grey wall.

4. 25m (24) Great pockets and orange wall climbing with many bolts to a ledge and double U bolt belay.

5. 15m (20) Straightforward bolted climbing - at the top of the hard stuff you need to traverse left for about 4m then over a bulge past last bolt to double U bolt belay below large orange wall.

6. 45m (23) Well bolted sport climbing - mostly cruisy jug hauling then a tricky bulgy finish. Once you top out you can either belay off two FIXE hangers or continue up easy ledges and vegetation for another 10m and belay off trees.

Above this to get back to the car park walk left for 30m to the old Cooee lookout and old fences, then follow the overgrown green track to the car up the hill.

I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking! I can't think of many other sustained long routes in mainland Australia at that length? It's gotta be 350+ metres? Way longer than Evolution or Siblings.

Bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone...

An old Andrew Bull/Tony Barton project cleaned up and finished by Graham Fairbain. Climb details to be verified. At least 6 pitches - crux pitch of 26/27. Sport route on fixed hangers.

Please note that the description and grades are preliminary only.

You'll need two ropes to get down. It is possible to retreat from any of the belays. The rap line, however, does not not follow the route directly (i.e., you can't easily stop at pitches 2 or 3 on the way down because the pitches above them traverse and they are steepish. So best not to leave stuff you want to collect on the way down at these belays (e.g., don't leave your extra clothes etc. in the hole!).

Start: Line of hangers to the right of 'Big, Dark and Mysterious'.

1. 20m (18) Start in short open corner and head up following bolts. A small/medium nut reduces the runout up the slab. Belay on bolts just below the first overlap.

2. 20m (23) Cruxy. Out roof (crux) and up slabby wall. Continue past rap anchor and two more bolts to bolted belay up under the second overlap. It may be more comfortable to belay at the rap anchor - it gives a better view of the next pitch.

3. 25m (26) Traverse left from the belay to the stalagtite and out the overlap. Into the corner to the right, up a couple of metres and head left and up following bolts. Belay in the big hole. Great climbing!

4. 45m (23) A great, sustained pitch. Out of the belay hole to the left and follow bolts up. At about the half-way mark is an obvious thread that may make the run out a bit more comfortable, it requires a 120cm sling. Where the bolts trend right, use a couple of long slings to reduce drag. At about 35m, clip a bolt to the right (long sling) and head up and left easily to the belay.

   Be cautious rapping from here - if you thread all three bolts the rope may not pull. Rap to anchor on ledge 10m left of the third belay. Rap again to station halfway up Pitch 2, and again to the ground.

5. 20m (25) Up yellow powdery corner system. After corner bust right to chains (don’t pull the block off!)

6. 28m (21) Continue up corner via some cool moves and terrible rock to finish at chains. Rap route.

Direct through the small roof below the 2nd belay on 'Strangeness and Charm'. Rather extreme. Straight up to the roof using side runners. Slot a 1 friend in the roof, clip a bolt and swing over the roof (crux). Continue past three more bolts.

Start up left side of glamorous and daunting 45 metre steepness trending right to super high dramatic finish

Not very nice.

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH.

Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

The face between the arete of Our Way, and the corner of Back Off (perpendicular to Microcosm). Straight up the face, avoiding the corner/crack and the arete. Thin, balancy, technical moves of boldly spaced bolts. Finish up the arete on the right side of the face (formed when Back Off becomes a chimney).

Black/Grey painted carrot bolts.

Thin face climbing up the superb clean sweep of rock right of The Righteous Brothers

Climbs the improbable blank-looking white streak. Very cruxy.

Powerful moves to gain the white rock, choose the LEFT line of bolts, and tackle extremely bouldery crux moving left to flake, followed by a technical and committing headwall.

Might be significantly easier with a long enough wingspan.

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Just outside the cave. The top is wet in rain.

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

Blast up the ironstone monorail . All time.

Common start with Mandingo. Follow the left line of bolts.

Start just to the right Berk, Berk, Bekawrk on the left edge of the main wall. A long outing with some unlikely pockets.

Sustained climbing on good edges up the slightly overhanging wall. Starts up short hand line 100m left of Canyonero.