攀登 in Sicily

auf keinen fall klettern! ab der 8. sl sind die haken komplett durch. Rückzug nur mit schlinge an zacke möglich. die ersten. 4 sl. sind noch ok - wobei die 2. sl mit knackiger einzelstelle an superrostigem haken startet. ich würde sie mit 6c+ bewerten.

magnificent and hard multipitch route. bring around 14 quickdraws, full set of cams and several slings first four pitches are well bolted, only ocassionally rusted bolt. the crux in the fourth pitch is very sharp and delicate slab climbing. 5th pitch has about five bolts going up and then right and then a juggy overhang, 6th pitch has a single bolt and then you follow an airy arete.7th pitch is trending right. 8th pitch has a difficult second part and has rusty bolts big friends bd345 would be handy. finish is overhanging offwidth with sharp walls so no jamming. 9th starts with wallclimbing on some rusty bolts (protectable with small friends), last rusty bolt sits under an scarily overhung corner/chimney - look left and escape onto an airy arete with beauti ful exposed climbing to a comfortable belay ledge. (rope drag).10nth - last hard pitch starts with bouldery move over a rusty bolt then follow very spaced ( good looking) bolts into rightwards traverse to a 5m corner with little protection /gear, then left again to a last anchor. afterwards we went up and slightly left and found ourselves in the 13th pitch of fully bolted v. delle punte which we followed to quickly top out.

All very rusty bolts can be backed up with trad gear.

The German (nichtklettern) is a sissy.

Very Adventurous trad route. I felt the grades were much harder. couldn't commit to lead on trad.

Half way up. (The bolted pitches). Long, easy, and not too sharp.

Climbed the first 8 bolted pitches

Amazing Multi pitch, we took a newly bolted variation to the top. Super high quality.

the first 6 pitches then the superb Via Vento del Sud, the combination is all bolted with two bolts on the belay

It’s sport climb we did not need to do any trad

Fully sport - no rack needed

This route has looooong runouts between bolts - we took a fall of around 8-10m on pitch 4! I consider it dangerous unless 1-2 pieces of trad gear are inserted between every bolt pair. The trad gear is bomber when well placed. The rock has amazing holds and great friction except when the air is humid as it was when we did it. Then you begin to overgrip and quickly run out of juice. It took us until the final moves of pitch 3 to get pumped and take a small fall and good rest.

Climbed the first half, then Via del punto. Fully bolted.

We climbed 8 pitches. No trad needed

We did this route with poor conditions. At this season of the year there is no sun hence it was especially in the 6b+ and 6b very wet, like Nivea. Nevertheless we managed to do it and the routes are really amazing! Huge recommendation if the conditions are good. We were quite happy with the bolting. Yes, sometimes it’s quite well spaced but in a reasonable way. Also the last to pitches (5c and 5a) are bolted. We didn’t use any trad gear and I wouldn’t consider this route as a grad route.

Einfach super, einfach wunderschön 👍👍 BD Cams 0.3-2 mitgenommen und benutzt

Freeclimbed UIAA 7/ 6+ A0

First anchor

By themself they feel 6b and 6c. But in a single push I'd say the overall grade is 6c+. Rope drag was only a slight issue if you extend some key bolts