Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
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星期五 25th 4月 2025 - West Rock State Park | |||||||
South Buttress Ball Field Slabs | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Nickel And Dime - with Daniel Soh | ★ 好 | |||||
the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die
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5.8 | ★ Nickel And Dime - with Daniel Soh | ★ 好 | |||||
the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die
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星期一 10th 6月 2024 - The Fins | |||||||
Discovery Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Yellowman | 18m, 6 | |||||
Amazing
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5.13a | ★★★ Make it a double | 12 | |||||
tried after onsighting to the first chains. Grabbed the last draw for a lack of positioning to clip.
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5.12c | ★★★ The dinner roll | 23m, 11 | |||||
Tried to onsight, could not do the start boulder
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星期天 9th 6月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Lower Old Road Powers Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Soul Bossa Nova | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Just took some victory whips on this after sending scotty
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5.13a | ★★★ Scotty Don't | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Fuck. Yes.
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星期天 9th 6月 2024 - Index Town Walls | |||||||
The Country The Country | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Wham! | 18m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Very beta specific slap and face climbing. Fantastic climb.
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星期六 8th 6月 2024 - Rocky Mountain National Park | |||||||
Estes Park Valley Highway 7 And Tributaries Lily Mountain Quickie Cliff | |||||||
5.10b/c | ★ Trophy Wife - with Flavia Hug | 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Sketchy start up to first bolt (at least for short people like me). Techy and balancy afterwards.
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5.10b | ★ Atrophied Husband - with Flavia Hug | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
One move wonder
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5.6 | ★ Ascent of a Woman - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Slightly slabby start, easy finish.
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5.8 | ★ Pickup Line - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | ||||
Slabby start, easy finish
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5.5 Hard | ★ Casual Six - with Flavia Hug | 10m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Hard move for the grade up to first bolt, cruising afterwards
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星期五 7th 6月 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
OK Corral | |||||||
5.10d ~5.10c | ★★ Dirty Sally - with Matt | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Lovely, long.
Flake work and delicate feet. Moves either side of the line in thought-provoking, committing ways. It's a 5.10b on Mountain Project - maybe moreso due to retro-bolting in 2018 (sounds a bit sketch prior to then). I would go with 5.10c. And, it'll throw you if you aren't techy or used to the style. My friend sat a lot on it after working two harder climbs earlier in the day. An absolutely joy, another 5.10 of the day I would come back and do again 👌 |
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5.10b Hard | ★★★ Doob Loob - with Matt | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
The line for the grade here!! What a freaking climb 😘👌, probably sandbagged for QLD standards 😅
Deliciously long. The view at the top is a straight out of LOTR. Varied - crack at the start, a stemmy corner with a bulge/rooflet to work around, delicate pockets, 2 hands-free rests and a roof that made me sit on gear until I could see the Savior.Pocket that takes you to sweets jugs for the anchor. So bummed I was one move from the onsight. (Also, the name on Mountain Project is Boob Loob) |
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5.8 | ★ Phat Phinger Phrenzy - with Matt | 15m, 6 | |||||
Holy Stemming Batman! Was not ready for this as my starter for the day! Felt run out and was not my style, so for me, harder than 5.8. had to have a sit & think. For what I have climbed in the area, it is unique.
I stayed left at the top whereas there are some hectic off width photos on the RHS on Mountain Project. |
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5.10a Hard | ★ Brown Dirt Cowgirl - with Matt | 10m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Delicate with some thin flake work. I think this would get a 19/20 grade in Ewbanks. Stacked Deck (5.10b, felt easier than this).
Really enjoyed it. Has been retro bolted - I want to say 5 draws now - a few on this wall are now much better bolter with RB's |
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5.10b | ★★ Stacked Deck - with Matt | 14m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Lovely huecos (buckets) greet you at the start with some tech-y middle around a small bulge. Lovely
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5.9 | ★★ Iron Horse with a Twisted Heart - with Matt | ||||||
Delicate slab and small hand hold and tiny feet. Run-out so a fall would equal a parmesan cheese grater (which is what keeps it at 5.9 IMHO).
Lots of people bagged it on Mountain Project; and, I didn't hate it. It would have to be your style though. Wouldn't give it the 2 stars. |
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5.10b | ★ Ride Me Cowgirl - with Matt | 14m, 5 | |||||
Run-out compared to Dirty Sally, shorter. Had some nice techy areas, the run-out probably making it the grade versus the length/moves. Sharper rock than Dirty Sally, and a bit of a let down after the beauty of the route (Dirty Sally) that was to the right
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5.10c ~5.10d | ★ Matilda's Last Waltz - with Matt | ||||||
Tried this after mis-reading Mountain Project & The Crag. Was looking for Stacked Deck (the next one to the left) Very boulder-y, spanny start. Bailed at the first clip. Matt went up it after - it was basically watching him dog up a slabby, crimpy hug-fest fridge.
Frankly, unless you like to hate yourself to the 6th layer of Hell, I would avoid this one, there are so many other lovely 5.10's and 5.11's within 5-10minutes walk. |
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星期四 6th 6月 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
OK Corral | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ La Vaca Peligrosa - with Matt, Shazzy | 12m | |||||
Thought-inducing pocket-fest. Was told by some locals it’s a classic. I can see why
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5.10a | ★★ Red Ryder - with Matt, Shazzy | 17m, 7 | |||||
Lovely line - long for area and varied. Rooflet took some thinking. Distance between draws compared to the other ones previously made it feel more committing than what it probably was. I kept right at the top, the others went more direct from last bolt to anchor
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5.9 | ★ Annie Get your Drill - with Matt, Shazzy | 12m, 6 | |||||
Slabby-er than worded, but a pleasant welcome to Wild Iris 👌
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5.10d | ★★ Claim Jumper - with Matt, Shazzy | 15m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
5.10c on Mountain Project - could be a 5.10d by Aussie standards/style. I really like the layback start but it caught me in the wrong direction about halfway up. Fine edges for feet/foot jam if you know how to use them, otherwise it’s ruthless. Thin, middle but with rests. Top has lovely jugs if you know where to fine them. Demands commitment throughout. Great climb
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5.6 | ★★ Utah Carol - with Matt, Shazzy | 16m, 6 | |||||
Lovely flake start onto slab. A pleasant little ease in
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星期四 6th 6月 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Five and Dime | 27m | |||||
J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"
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星期四 6th 6月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Lower Old Road Honky Tonk | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Boot Scoot Boogie | ★★ 很好 | |||||
The second last bolt is loose and should not be clipped (5/06/24)
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星期三 5th 6月 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
Main Wall Rode Hard | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Wind and Rattlesnakes — 2 attempts | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Awesome route. The onsight failed due to misreading of the tricky sequence
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星期二 4th 6月 2024 - Wild Iris | |||||||
Main Wall Rode Hard | |||||||
5.12c | ★★ Rode Hard and Put Up Wet | ||||||
tried the onsight. The weird beta in the roof got me
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Little Eiger | |||||||
5.10 ~5.10+ | ★★★ Busch Gardens - with Matt | 30m | |||||
Beautiful, techy climb - varied. Slab start, to a beautiful roof with a committing highfoot move and exposed clip far above the roof, finishing with flowy, techy work with precise feet. Would have a higher grade on the Aussie Ewbanks system.
Fell at the roof - a great climb. Runout spoken about before anchor (on Mountain Project) has since been eliminated, and still feels ballsy AF. So happy for to take the charge on this one and put up the draws. Friend/belay partner felt this was a harder climb than Bush Administration to the left (though less sustained). Would climb this and First Impressions again. This wall is stunning. |
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5.9 Hard | ★★ First Impressions - with Matt | ||||||
How this doesn't have 3 stars on The Crag is beyond me. Varied, overhung and just a stunning long line with great exposure and moves for the grade. If you have to choose between this and Herbal Essences for a warm-up, choose this one. Unless you're a slab fiend.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Herbal Essence - with Matt | 12 | |||||
Slabby start gets more overhung as you go. Nice and long, a harder 5.9 than those in the Canal Zone
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Eldorado Canyon State Park Eldorado Canyon South Peanuts Wall Lower Peanuts Wall, Upper West Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Dihedral - with Barb | ||||||
wussed out of RH variant
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5.6 | ★★ Your Basic Lieback - with Barb | ||||||
with direct start, intended to swing 3 pitches to the top so pitched it out, but ended up leading this pitch too
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V8 | Diesel | ||||||
First three moves 🙂
Busted my knee 🙃 |
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny | 27m | |||||
Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Grasshopper Wall | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Dances with cows | 9 | |||||
Coming back for the send (if my fingers let me)
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
French Cattle Ranch Shinto | |||||||
5.12a | WuTang's Secret Shinto Ride | ||||||
Pull two 5.12 moves then victory 5.9 slab. Unfortunately I fell on the 5.12 moves on my flash
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星期天 2nd 6月 2024 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit School Rock | |||||||
5.0 ~5.0 | 裂缝手套 预留快挂 ★★ Kindergarten Slab | 76m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.
You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum. Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards. This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point. |
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
The West Face Left Side | |||||||
5.0 ~5.6 | ★ The Trough | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
First route at Tahquitz! Led all pitches. Sandbagged af. "Downclimb" first requires a 100 ft friction slab up climb 😅 and then a tricky descent on a v steep gulley.
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.5 ~5.7 | The Trough | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Led all pitches! The downclimb is a trip -- first you friction slab 100 feet and then find a windy path to the right for a steep down hike/climb.
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Canal Zone | |||||||
5.8 Hard | Levada - with Matt | 24m | |||||
Going with my Canal tradition of sheit-ing the bed on the first climb before nothing but Send Train on harder things after.
Quite nice, varied - but the middle fridge-y area might throw you if you read it wrong like I did. Slabby like many of the lower grade routes here. Still worth a star compared to some of the other 5.8 I did. |
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5.10a/b | Lambada - with Matt | 18m | |||||
A blast. Guidebook gives it star(s) and I would absolutely agree.
Some might find the slab section challenging, but it was fine for me. Loved the slightly overhung section up to a good roof. |
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5.10- | ★★ Panama Red - with Matt | 15m | |||||
Found this a more challenging route than Ivy League. Some committing moves if this is the upper end of your grade Surprisingly crimpy. Beautifully vertical compared to the other climbs I've done in the crag.
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5.10a | Ivy League - with Matt | 15m | |||||
Lovely, felt delicate. This and Panama Red are nicely vertical compared to the others.
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5.9 | ★★★ Made In The Shade - with Matt | 38m | |||||
Delightful, still slabby, but varied. Worth the 3 stars. Yes, a 70m rope will work for the full route + lowering. Needs about 20 draws, but you can skip the first FH (placed pretty needlessly IMHO), and skip/recycle draws in a couple of places safely
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5.9 | ★★ Berga - with Matt | 24m | |||||
Stemmy - varied for the area, a nice way to end the session
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5.8 | ★ Holiday Road - with Matt | 21m | |||||
Better flow than Venice Beach (climb to left). Still slabby, but better
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5.8 | Venice Beach - with Matt | 23m | |||||
Had to stop to think/read it. Clean otherwise. First climb in N. America so slab style a bit foreign to me
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Hanging Mountain | |||||||
Murdock Wall | |||||||
5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Led myself to demonstrate
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5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Checked Jasson's placements
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5.5 | Full Murdock - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 1 | |||||
Checked Kate's placements
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5.10a Easy | The Butterfly Effect - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | ||||||
Not too bad. Could lead without trouble. Dirty. Easier than expected after Grotto climbs. I think Compass Rose was harder.
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Hanging Mountain | |||||||
The Grotto | |||||||
5.9 Hard | Compass Rose - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Checked Yarrow's placements
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5.9 Hard | Compass Rose - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Checked Jasson's placements
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5.9 Hard | Compass Rose - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Checked Kate's placements
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5.9 Hard | Compass Rose - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Mock Lead because I was spooked by 'Disco Pants P1'. Top half is sport. Asked for a take. Holds are hidden in the bushes to the right. Kinda hard but could lead with practice.
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5.8 | Mutiny - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | ||||||
Much much easier than 'Disco Pants P1'
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5.8 ~5.9 | Disco Pants P1 - with Kate Pechenkina, Yarrow, Jasson | ||||||
P1 quite sketched out, almost fell. I thought this was harder than other 8s here
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Canal Zone | |||||||
5.10- Hard | ★★ Panama Red | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Really cool start for the first 4 or so bolts, then turns into slab with no hand holds rest of the way.
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5.10a Easy | Ivy League | 15m | 一般 | ||||
Rated 5.9+ in the guidebook, about the same level as panama red right next to it. High first bolt.
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5.10- | ★★ Beasto | 21m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
cool route with a fun start. Need to go up to the left at the arete, climb up a bit, find a good hold and then mantle.
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星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Dry Wall - right side Question Wall | |||||||
5.11 ~5.11- | ★ You rang? | 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Fun warmup, should be 5.10+
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5.12b | ★★★ Shoot the Question | 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
One of the best climbs on question wall
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5.12b | Question Crack Right | 13 | 一般 | ||||
Sharp climbing, not super inspiring
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5.11c | Question Crack Center | 13 | 一般 | ||||
Should've brought crack gloves. Route is very sharp
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星期五 31st 5月 2024 - Sinks Canyon | |||||||
Main Wall The Killer Cave | |||||||
5.12d ~5.12c | ★ Baghdad | ||||||
Epic
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星期五 31st 5月 2024 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Lover's Leap Main Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner | 140m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.
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星期五 31st 5月 2024 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Lover's Leap Lower Buttress | |||||||
5.7 R | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar | 91m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner
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星期五 31st 5月 2024 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Scheelite Crags Psom Slab | |||||||
5.8 | The High Life | 30m | |||||
Sick undercling traverse on slabby terrain
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5.10b | Slip And Slide | 14m | |||||
5.11 friction slab can't possibly exist. This thing had no hand holds the whole way, every foot slip just resulted in a good scare but then your foot just sticks to the next bit of nothing it can find
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星期四 30th 5月 2024 - Cathedral Ledge | |||||||
Miscellaneous | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Alcove Cracks - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
Much burlier than it looks. Protects well with small gear. Stoppers are especially useful.
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星期四 30th 5月 2024 - Cathedral Ledge | |||||||
The Prow Area | |||||||
5.9 | The Beast Flake - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
The BD#0.5 crack off of the anchor was actually the crux. Moving into the flake can be intimidating, but feels pretty solid once you commit. From there, hand/fist jam galore to the top. As of 05/2024 there was some fresh cordelette with two aluminium rap rings on the anchor. As per the description, I thought I'd have to run it out and save my bigger pieces. Ended up at the top with my BD#3 and BD#4 on my harness. There are a few smaller options in cracks off to the side.
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5.9 |
Recompense P1
- with
Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea
1
| 120m | |||||
The P2 chimney was wet and our party went through an emotional roller-coaster on P1 so we decided to rap down.
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星期四 30th 5月 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Above the Practice Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Pete's Farewell | 50m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
seconded myself
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星期四 30th 5月 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Chica Bonita Wall | |||||||
5.11a/b ~5.11b | ★★ Old English | 23m, 8 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
This route has a boulder start that is at least v3, making it technically a 11a/b. Alternatively it is possible to skip the boulder by traversing in from climbers right, even though doing this feels a bit sketch the route itself is well worth it.
The boulder is sequency. |
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5.10b ~5.10a | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Amazing route!
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5.10c ~5.10c | ★★ Flying the Bird | 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
It's a great route, too bad it's often wet.
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星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Cathedral Ledge | |||||||
Airation Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Airation - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
The climb is great and the crux is most likely suffering the pain of the sharp finger locks. Hard to blow if you can do that paired with decent technique.
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5.8 | ★★ Pine Tree Eliminate - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
Actually took a fall on this very polished climb. It was probably a mega classic at some point, but the polishing lowers my appreciation by quite a bit.
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星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Cathedral Ledge | |||||||
Thin Air Face | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ Thin Air
- with
Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea
1
2
3
4
| 91m | |||||
The climbing is good but I would avoid getting stuck behind people. Apparently, many people traverse into P3 from "Toe Crack", which adds to the traffic. We went for the 5.7R slab finish, which I lead. It's possible to sling the tree high, which lowers the potential consequence of a fall.
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星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Dry Wall - right side Question Wall | |||||||
5.11b | Is God punishing me? | 一般 | |||||
The first half of this climb is enjoyable if a little sharp. The part above the bulge is just unpleasant
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5.12b | ★★★ Why you gotta be a Bitch? | 17m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Fun face climbing, tricky section around fourth bolt, awesome layback finish
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星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Dry Wall - right side Wall of Denial | |||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ Winged Lizard | 15m, 6 | |||||
This route is graded 5.10b in the guidebook, and the tricky moves at the start mean it deserves the grade
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星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Face Up to That Crack | 21m, 8 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Fun and varied movement, if you are comfortable at the grade it can be done as a run out sport climb.
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5.10a ~5.10c | Fast Food Christians | 18m, 7 | 不值一提 | ||||
Start move is hard as hell, could even be 11a of you are short.
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星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Hideout | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Bushwhacked | 18m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Done with one black totem.
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星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Mondo Beyondo Downpour Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Happiness | 24m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
You can find happiness in slavery
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Pratt's Crack Gully Mustache Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Coven (Seriously Though) | ||||||
Did the 5.10C variation and finished at the anchors of B.E.G
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
South Face Area Open Book Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Open Book - with Jeff | 140m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
That was great. Inspiring to climb on this piece of history (FA in 1952 by Robbins/Wilson, and the first 5.9 in the country!).
P1: Engaging boulder start with almost no protection, crux just below the elephant ear (great feature). I found the start crux to be not the first few moves, but instead reaching the crack by establishing on the slab properly. P2: 20m of continuous laybacking, initially with some good mini-ledges for rest, then nothing on the last ~12m. Also jammable if you like offwidths. I laybacked (guns > technique I guess) P3: Interesting mix of grovel, chimney and unprotected slab moves. Rap anchor or continue to the top. Moving onto the slab after chimneying is spicy on lead! |
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
The West Face Left Side | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Dave's Deviation P1
- with
Jeff
1
| 35m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Oof. Too much after climbing Open Book before. Feet hurting like hell and it was also really hot. I still feel insecure on steeper fingercracks and especially felt so today. Needed one hang above the tree, clean until there with the crux for me being getting fully established in the crack.
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Ten Sleep Canyon | |||||||
Mondo Beyondo Downpour Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Uncle Tom | 14m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Crux is at the start, then the rest of the route is victory jugs
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Catslab | |||||||
5.4 | Gumby Cat | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
very nice easy climb.
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5.9 | ★ Mr Mistoffeles | 32m | ★ 好 | ||||
really nice route, short crux section in the middle that can either be done as a crack, or a side pull.
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5.10b | ★ Rumple Teaser | 30m | ★ 好 | ||||
very slabby, no hand holds at the top. First section is 5.7, then harder. Would be scary to lead.
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星期一 27th 5月 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve The Infirmary | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Pre-op | 14m, 6 | |||||
all totally acheivable for me, just exhausted from previous day! project!
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星期天 26th 5月 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Orange Crush Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Tropicana - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
Interesting but quite burly mouvement on alightly polished rock for the start. The crux is a little higher up and revolves around finding the right feet.
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5.9 | ★ Orange Crush - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | ||||||
Not your typical straight forward 5.9. Make sure you don't blow it before the first bolt if you don't stick clip.
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星期天 26th 5月 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Kennel Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ F—ing the Dog - with Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | 15m, 5 | |||||
Didn't find the correct hold just before launching for the victory jug. Missed it by a few centimeters. Great climb with various crux beta depending on height.
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