An amazing route with such varied climbing. Almost onsighted it but had one fall on the crux pitch as I didn't push myself far enough into the chimney. Happy with this tick and thanks Blair for taking me out
Lots of dirt and choss lower down leads to 3 or 4 beautiful pitches of climbing. Then the rock quality turns to shit as you approach the summit. Skip the last 2 pitches and take the easy escape instead.
Red point! #2ndGo. Had no expectation of doing this second go. Alex was much more confident. So glad I proved her right. First time I have sent a 5.12b in a session, let alone 2nd go. There was a “7b” in Spain last year, but that was very soft. This felt on grade. Psyched!
Red point! Still seeping at the last bolt which adds a tricky red point crux. But I knew what I was doing this time so it went very smoothly even though my fingers were starting to numb out a bit at the top. The second draw was pre-clipped as recommended by FA in the guidebook.
The starting crux gave me a hell of a time last winter. Today changed to the heel hook beta and went down 2nd go after a bolt to bolt warmup run. Hard for 12a.
First go putting on draws for everyone to try. Second go was meant to be a beta burn but ended up clipping the chains (after some noises came out). Too boulder bro for my liking haha
#2ndgo
Countless attempts over 4 years. Went from scary-as-shit to fun-as-hell. Yee-fuckin’-haw! Soft for 5.13 but I’m taking the points with how much effort and time this required. I must’ve fallen 20+ times on that swing.
