Red point! Still seeping at the last bolt which adds a tricky red point crux. But I knew what I was doing this time so it went very smoothly even though my fingers were starting to numb out a bit at the top. The second draw was pre-clipped as recommended by FA in the guidebook.
The starting crux gave me a hell of a time last winter. Today changed to the heel hook beta and went down 2nd go after a bolt to bolt warmup run. Hard for 12a.
First go putting on draws for everyone to try. Second go was meant to be a beta burn but ended up clipping the chains (after some noises came out). Too boulder bro for my liking haha
#2ndgo
Countless attempts over 4 years. Went from scary-as-shit to fun-as-hell. Yee-fuckin’-haw! Soft for 5.13 but I’m taking the points with how much effort and time this required. I must’ve fallen 20+ times on that swing.
3 sessions. One of the coolest boulder problems on any Obed route. Some very strong climbers over the years have all given this 12d, but you'll find a few that give it 12b/c. Definitely doesn’t stack up to Canyon Man or The Vision Lives on for difficulty.
Hated this thing when I first tried it. The crux demands absolute perfection from your climbing ability, with precise control of foot movements and solid core. After spending some quality time with it over 4 sessions the send-go couldn’t have felt better and might have been the most enjoyable ride of the season so far.
