Steep sport climbing in the mid grades and with all day shade.
An unusually substantial cliff overlooking the scenic Woronora River set amongst lush forest and within critical meltdown distance of Australia's only nuclear reactor. The routes generally climb gorgeous steep water worn orange rock up to 20m in length. Most routes are now well bolted with ringbolts & lower-off anchors (2014). It is a good destination during summer since it faces south. Sections of the cliff seep after heavy rain and during winter when it gets no direct sun.
There was once a bit of rubbish near the bottom of the cliff from the upper lookout that has been cleaned up. If you see any rubbish please help take it out. Bring mosquito repellent in summer. Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are quite often in residence during spring.
To get to the crag, drive to corner of David Road and Old Illawarra Road in Barden Ridge. Drive south down to 89 Thomas Mitchell Dr. for 50m and park before the left turn. Pass the gate to the reserve, and follow the large, flat fire-trail west. Take the right-hand trail, along the ridge top. Pass a first large old quarry, and then a second. 20m past the second quarry, stop at a clearing. Look sharp left, almost back--there is a small cairn at the top of a steep, yellow descent gully. Follow blue tape marks on branches along a faint trail. Trend down and right under the scrappy cliff, always staying close to the rock on your right. Climbs described right to left facing the cliff (east to west).
Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.
Dave Barnes and Chris Wallace in the 90s, Neil Monteith in the 2010s
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
★★ Gargamel 16 - Gargamel himself !!
Josh Porter on ★★★ Vaxed to the Max 21 - Vaxed to the Max
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