Ascents of Basilisk Direct Finish

Cutting feet in an off width roof crack isn’t something you do every day - sick experience. Did it in two pitches, both led by Steve

Incredible! Would do again if I wasn't so buggered from the first lap. Full body fun. Moves I've never done and will maybe never do again!

The cheat code to enlightenment. The answer to all your questions. Once in a lifetime!

Everything I'd hoped for and more

Insane. The crux near the rusty bolt can be protected with some small wires. Massive sling before roof useful. Seems like the bottomless chimney traverse can be climbed a few ways. I opted for the crawl and drop down/ around version with a cut loose for style. Also managed a no hands no feet rest midway, looking down at my partner below. Rope drag was minimal in one pitch. What a route.

Words cannot describe. I have never screamed so much on a route. I absolutely was not expecting the epic that this climb was. Being proper stuck in a ceiling while staring 40 metres down into nothing but air is a feeling I don’t know if I’ll ever get again in my climbing career haha. Feeling totally helpless midway through the roof I put myself into a bomber chicken wing position, my hips came loose and my body dropped almost causing my shoulder to dislocate. I heard sounds you never want to hear from a shoulder haha. So much pain but there is literally no option then to keep squeezing. Got through the roof but took out of fear my shoulder was about to explode haha. Rested and did the rest. Felt more difficult than Kachoong so the grade makes no sense to me lol. Almost feels ungradeable? . I’m definitely going to give it some time but I’m coming back for you basalisk! Deserves every single one of those stars.

Without doubt one of the most fun routes I've done. This is unlike anything else at the grade, a superb adventure.

Almost got stuck in the roof! Bit of a cheeky long runout but no harm done

Fuck. I don't have words to describe this but I'll try... An amazing juggy fun but of climbing slowly turns into a fucking epic adventure of grunting, pushing and fear. Enjoy the jug-fest until the old rusty carrot bolt for it won't last. After that, strap yourself in for a very difficult finish up and through the 'roof'. If by roof you mean fucking epic squeeze chimney with spikes to get all your gear caught on. And if you have hips, keep them clear of the roof and then slide them through sideways otherwise you might get stuck. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Should've read the beta in the guide instead of trying to fit my fat arse where it wasn't designed to go! Cheers Pav & friend for the beta from below and the photos:)

Very, VERY fun climb! Done in two pitches.

Had to hang off the rope to unstuck my chalk bag that somehow managed to wrap itself around a horn in the crack. Otherwise a fun and definitely memorable climb.

Just as adventurous as I remebeer.

We f'n did it! What a climb! Mind-boggling! Michael led the first 2 pitches up to right under the roof. I led the crack.

It's not a roof. It's not an off-width crack. In the end, we'd describe it as a tunnel with an open bottom. The open bottom is just large enough to let you slip through, so the trick is to keep your hip high enough that it doesn't get caught. Once your hip is caught, it's game over. We both ended up spooning the side of the tunnel, holding on with both hands and one foot, while pushing hard with the other foot, inch by inch. I spooned the left side of the crack, Michael the right side.

A rollercoaster of nerves: Either we got nervous because of the insane exposure when climbing out on a roof for 7 meters. Or we felt rather trapped and claustrophobic because of the confined space the tunnel provides. Never felt trapped and exposed at the same time before.

Climbers' weight and size matters: I weigh about 10 kg less than Michael. For me, falling through that crack at the bottom was more likely, but I experienced less friction while moving through the tunnel. Michael was less likely to fall through the bottom but had a harder time making progress in the tunnel.

This climb is brutal. Took us both about 40 min each to get through the roof. I broke my harness in the process because it got caught on the rock. We discussed the grade, and we think it's actually one of those ungradable routes, because with what the heck would you compare it with?

We absolutely recommend this climb. It was a fantastic experience and a great adventure.

Awesome cracker of a climb!

No, no, no.

Tried and failed. Michael led all the way to the roof, which is pretty easy except for two moves right at the top which might be 16. The roof, though, is a totally different number. Very good protection in the roof via #1. I ended up being completely horizontally on my side wedged in the roof crack. Got out on the far side, grabbed two amazing jugs - and fell through the crack with a big swing back to the wall. Was so shaken that we retreated. Definitely going to work on this.

Absolutely outrageous position! Not really a 16, more like 14 or 15, but I guess the exposure gives it the extra grade. Just shove a 6 in and go!

Horrific squeezing. Make sure you go up and place Pro high, then climb back down and go underneath. You need to climb it as a roof, not a squeeze as seems most obvious. Don’t get stuck in there like me. Seems very hard going through the roof, way harder than 16 but it could just be what I’m used too.

so good

In 1 mega pitch on halves. Sooooo good. Best route of the day for sure.

What an adventure. An absolute must do and surely one of the best routes of its 'genre' around.

A high quality, full value for the grade, entire body involvement adventure.

Bonkers. Unlikely climbing through the horizontal roof. You wouldn't want to be on the larger end of the size spectrum.

Such an outrageous climb. And of course I got to lead the roof pitch

Awesome!

squeeeeeze!

Unique and ridiculous. Sustained grade ~15 climbing from the start, then a hard crux for the grade past the dubious old carrot bolt. (More reliable pro is available in the crack.) P2 brings the ridiculousness - jug hauling under the roof until it gets wide enough to pull up inside. Carry your gear on a sling below you during the roof, otherwise you'll get stuck. Used a full rack of medium to large nuts in the first pitch, then more cams (up to BD C4 #2) in the second. Slings very useful too, including at least one double length for P2.

Unreal squeeze roof. I almost got stuck. Cut loose at the end for full value.

Memorable.... Even i didn't dare to do the squeeze and went out to the lip.