Ascents of Basilisk Direct Finish

awkward if you are bigger

Fun - the scramble through the chimney at the end makes the climb!

great climb

Brilliant thrutch

Unforgettable and hilarious

Memorable.... Even i didn't dare to do the squeeze and went out to the lip.

Unique and ridiculous. Sustained grade ~15 climbing from the start, then a hard crux for the grade past the dubious old carrot bolt. (More reliable pro is available in the crack.) P2 brings the ridiculousness - jug hauling under the roof until it gets wide enough to pull up inside. Carry your gear on a sling below you during the roof, otherwise you'll get stuck. Used a full rack of medium to large nuts in the first pitch, then more cams (up to BD C4 #2) in the second. Slings very useful too, including at least one double length for P2.

squeeeeeze!

Bonkers. Unlikely climbing through the horizontal roof. You wouldn't want to be on the larger end of the size spectrum.

In 1 mega pitch on halves. Sooooo good. Best route of the day for sure.

so good

Absolutely outrageous position! Not really a 16, more like 14 or 15, but I guess the exposure gives it the extra grade. Just shove a 6 in and go!

Almost got stuck in the roof! Bit of a cheeky long runout but no harm done

Insane. The crux near the rusty bolt can be protected with some small wires. Massive sling before roof useful. Seems like the bottomless chimney traverse can be climbed a few ways. I opted for the crawl and drop down/ around version with a cut loose for style. Also managed a no hands no feet rest midway, looking down at my partner below. Rope drag was minimal in one pitch. What a route.

The cheat code to enlightenment. The answer to all your questions. Once in a lifetime!

Incredible! Would do again if I wasn't so buggered from the first lap. Full body fun. Moves I've never done and will maybe never do again!

Unique (in the best possible interpretation of the word)

Should've read the beta in the guide instead of trying to fit my fat arse where it wasn't designed to go! Cheers Pav & friend for the beta from below and the photos:)

Everything I'd hoped for and more

We f'n did it! What a climb! Mind-boggling! Michael led the first 2 pitches up to right under the roof. I led the crack.

It's not a roof. It's not an off-width crack. In the end, we'd describe it as a tunnel with an open bottom. The open bottom is just large enough to let you slip through, so the trick is to keep your hip high enough that it doesn't get caught. Once your hip is caught, it's game over. We both ended up spooning the side of the tunnel, holding on with both hands and one foot, while pushing hard with the other foot, inch by inch. I spooned the left side of the crack, Michael the right side.

A rollercoaster of nerves: Either we got nervous because of the insane exposure when climbing out on a roof for 7 meters. Or we felt rather trapped and claustrophobic because of the confined space the tunnel provides. Never felt trapped and exposed at the same time before.

Climbers' weight and size matters: I weigh about 10 kg less than Michael. For me, falling through that crack at the bottom was more likely, but I experienced less friction while moving through the tunnel. Michael was less likely to fall through the bottom but had a harder time making progress in the tunnel.

This climb is brutal. Took us both about 40 min each to get through the roof. I broke my harness in the process because it got caught on the rock. We discussed the grade, and we think it's actually one of those ungradable routes, because with what the heck would you compare it with?

We absolutely recommend this climb. It was a fantastic experience and a great adventure.

Suprisingly nice climbing on the first pitch (I led). Hannah led second pitch - 'interesting'

Such an outrageous climb. And of course I got to lead the roof pitch

Just as adventurous as I remebeer.

Fuck. I don't have words to describe this but I'll try... An amazing juggy fun but of climbing slowly turns into a fucking epic adventure of grunting, pushing and fear. Enjoy the jug-fest until the old rusty carrot bolt for it won't last. After that, strap yourself in for a very difficult finish up and through the 'roof'. If by roof you mean fucking epic squeeze chimney with spikes to get all your gear caught on. And if you have hips, keep them clear of the roof and then slide them through sideways otherwise you might get stuck. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Without doubt one of the most fun routes I've done. This is unlike anything else at the grade, a superb adventure.

Had to hang off the rope to unstuck my chalk bag that somehow managed to wrap itself around a horn in the crack. Otherwise a fun and definitely memorable climb.

bit tricky fingerlock move mid climb then airy squeeze, gotta love it

Cutting feet in an off width roof crack isn’t something you do every day - sick experience. Did it in two pitches, both led by Steve

Hard to believe its a 16 when you look at it from the ground: a truly memorable climb!

Being smaller may help, but still kind of hard at 16