Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Cathedral Rock | ||||||
19 | ★★★ With The Angels - with David Gray, jonty | 43m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the move off belay at start the hardest en route ( short arms). Second pitch just lovely. Led P2 and 3…..
|
||||||
Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
|
||||||
22 |
★★★ Heat Pump
1
Good climbing in its own right
2
Spent ages in the middle shaking out and working out what to do. A few big reaches/ dead points in the first half sapped my energy | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Influenza | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner
|
||||||
Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Pension Day | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting enough, found it as tough as the other two, though may have been just reacquainting myself with the Pipes dolerite
|
||||||
21 | ★ Game On | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height
|
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | Black Lab | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad for a late addition, though top a bit contrived and friable
|
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21 | ★ Guide Dog | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting lower section
|
||||||
Fri 19th Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Asylum for the Insane | 22m, 3 | Average | |||
A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry
|
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
15 | ★ Wide Horizon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Original ascent solo, rpt today
|
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13 | ★ Ichi Knee | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Original ascent was solo, weirdly coming up as red point. Rpt today
|
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Hop | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Tricky start keeping left of arete. Stupid finish.
|
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tomorrow's Villians | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Boris | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It’s a squeeze but didn’t feel too contrived
|
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
11 | ★ ThreeSandShoes | 5m, 2 | ||||
Surprised to see a standard solo for many years now with bolts
|
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17 ~19 | ★ Abe Simpson | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I have this ticked as a solo, but I think that was Plum Duff. This is almost a retrobolt of Pimple and of similar difficulty
|
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13 ~8 | WallowWall | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Another questionable route
|
||||||
3 ~1 | ★★ Abseil Slab | 12m, 2 | Crap | |||
Seriously, I walked down this with no hands and the dog ran up it. Needs to disappear.
|
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
The Towers | ||||||
10 | Orchid arete | 7m | ||||
Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.
|
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Arrow and the Song | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
The one I hadn’t done. Finished up Karinya by mistake. Found going direct at 3rd bolt quite tough for grade
|
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Matador | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap rock, only good move is the starting mantle ( if you don’t chimney)
|
||||||
Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Foster Falls | ||||||
Dihedrals | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Twist and Shout | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and interesting arete, now off to the airport
|
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5.11a | ★★ Pillsbury | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely technical finger seam
|
||||||
Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Foster Falls | ||||||
First Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Tea and Strumpets | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tough crux for shorter people
|
||||||
Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Golden Locks | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Razor Worm | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The most enjoyable route of the day
|
||||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passages | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice climbing and protects well
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Sweep | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit manky in the middle ( with minimal pro) but fun start up V groove
|
||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
Lilly Bluff Left Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Rocking Chair | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a steep little number. Good into to the blocky rock.
|
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.10c ~5.10d | ★★ In the Light | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Not much easier than the 11c I Onsighted at the Gallery
|
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5.9 ~5.10a | ★ Sunshine | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A feisty warm up.
|
||||||
Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ A Brief History of Climbing | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Insane steep plates and a good move near the start.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Different Strokes | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shortish but nice movement and a hand jam
|
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5.10c ~5.10c | ★★ DaVinci's Left Ear | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder than some 11as I have been on here. But really liked it , technical and hard
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Bronaugh Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ 5.10 Until Lee and Jeff Do It | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Just another steep pocket pulling adventure.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★ No Brain, No Pain | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The start was about the hardest moves I did all day. Definitely deserves grade 20 Australian
|
||||||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Spirit Fingers | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crux was definitely the thin seam, felt grade 23, the rest was just pump management and plain fun.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Make a Wish | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The start felt like one of the harder moves all day. Got here early to beat crowds but didn’t really work.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Slick and the 9mm | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyed this as a warm up
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Grandpa Joe's Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Wonkaholic | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Again came down looking like a snow storm had hit me blowing off the ridiculous excess of chalk. Nice arete otherwise.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Grandma Josephine | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
10 b on MP and that feels fair ( Aust 19). Must have cleaned up, only a bit sandy right at the top
|
||||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Mr. Bungle | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough for grade, reasonably graded and bolted
|
||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Ok, but feet at start polished worse than limestone crags, plus too much chalk. Crux hard for shorter people.
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Stay Left | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
It was ok, all other warmups occupied. Spaced bolts
|
||||||
Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
|
||||||
Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
|
||||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | ||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
|
||||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
|
||||||
Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smoke Hole Canyon | ||||||
Guide Wall Ninja Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Native Suns - with David Gray | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Spaced bolts, no stopper moves
|
||||||
5.8 | ★ Can't Pray The Gray Away - with David Gray | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.
|
||||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
|
||||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
Gypsies Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice route, good warm up
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
|
||||||
Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Discoteca | ||||||
6b | ★★ Disc jockey | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky slab crux
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Il buttafuori (variante d'ingresso di dx) | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Nice juggy route
|
||||||
Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Acquafraggia | ||||||
La Mezzera | ||||||
6a | ★★ La Capanna del Blondi | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
|
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Albigna | ||||||
Spazzacaldeira | ||||||
5c |
★★★ Lasciamili
1
5a
30
2
5c
20
| 50m, 10 | ||||
This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ Buttamigiu
2
5c+
35
Kind of did half of this in our confusion
3
6a+
30
Hard moves getting to belay well above bolt.
4
6b+
50
Used a nice kneebar low, and found the hardest move up stepping off a small pinnacle.
5
4a
45
A route takes off directly above where you top out that would make a good link up | 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Cranna | ||||||
Lower Sector | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
|
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
Superleo | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cappuccino | 30m | ★ Good | |||
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
|
||||||
Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ||||||
Parking | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Assessore | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Probably my favourite. A couple of tricky spots.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sottosassa | ||||||
6a | ★ Diedro Gabrielli | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The bottom half was quite good, then a few mantles.
|
||||||
6a+ | I bocce del paes | 17m | ||||
Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
|
||||||
Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
Landro Settore 4 | ||||||
6a ~6a | ★ Gamaze | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite easier, and far easier than route to left.
|
||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★ Baum | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
|
||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Sandmännchen | 32m | ★ Good | |||
I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
|
||||||
6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | ||||
6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | ||||
Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
Landro Settore 3 | ||||||
5b | ★★ Nigge-Riss | 24m | ★ Good | |||
Ok, but always sad to see a bolted crack.
|
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Nigge-Kante | 24m | ★ Good | |||
I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
|
||||||
Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Sass Dlacia | ||||||
A | ||||||
6b | ★★ Placca motoria | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
|
||||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Parte Oscura della Luna | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
|
||||||
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Palla del Guide | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | ||||
Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
|
||||||
Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Comano Terme | ||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Dritdreiciodi | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Gigliola | 18m | ||||
Good warm up as advertised
|
||||||
Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale | ||||||
6 |
★★ Moon bears
- with
dave
1
5-
lead by
dave
Slightly off route but got there in the end
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
A nice pitch that traverses leftwards via tufa features
7
4
8
6-
Reachy crux
9
5-
Finished our 2.5 L water by the top | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very hot, we tried to create a breeze by climbing fast, about 3 hours. Linked 1+2, 3+4, 6+7. May the memory of the FA live on.
|
||||||
Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pestacolo | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough, getting used to the rock. 3 pm too early for shade, improved at 4.
|
||||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
6b | ★★ Brigot | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lo scorpione | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
|
||||||
6b+ | ★ Il nido de ragno | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
|
||||||
Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Breguzzo | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Prenzip | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Bagoi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
|
||||||
Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Croz de le Niere | ||||||
Formica | ||||||
5b | ★★ Il pigro | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant, about grade 17
|
||||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Bärfendal Välseröd Villskuddväggen | ||||||
7- | ★★ Vildvin | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought this was great, but confused by the topos. There is a shorter direct crack which we bypassed and went right along arch, so thinking it was this. Certainly felt quite challenging, great balance moves and some burly underclings. Could feel a bit sketchy placing gear on the traverse
|
||||||
6- | ★★★ Villskudd | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One part was still wet, but it climbed fine. I found the crux to be different to Dave- the upper traverse had the feet too far away from the flake so it was quite tricky. Again more like 19
|
||||||
6- R | ★ Ingemars Kamin | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The unprotectable ( without a #12) bit isn’t trivial. 27 crags converts as 19 which is probably fair
|
||||||
4 | ★★ Jungfrun | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It was dry at least after torrential rain the previous day. Quite pleasant
|
||||||
Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Ishoel | ||||||
Litjhælvet | ||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Trollfeit | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun route out over the water, felt like 19, so may just be a conversion factor issue with thecrag
|
||||||
6+ | ★★ Nådeløs som Cola | 12m |